Wine Club Newsletter - March 2013
When Autumn Turns to Spring
By Gary Parker
Spring is here.
As the weather and seasons change, so do our habits, our surroundings, and our environment. The foods available to us, the smell of the air, how the sun shines, which way the wind blows, and in fact, and our daily lives are affected by the changing of a season. So too, would be our logical wine choices.
As I go into the (early) autumn of my own life, I am cheered by the promise of the youth and freshness Spring season brings to my everyday existence. The very word “Spring” sounds youthful, energetic, bouncy, with new life, verve, energy, and I want to also mention sparkling and clean. My Autumnal circumstance can only provide me with a portion of the above-mentioned attributes, yet I can get all of these things from the wines I choose to drink during this season.
After enduring the cold affront of this last winter, I am ready to shed the three-dog night of animal skins and cold toes and move on to the crisp linen and perhaps even satin textures that our fabulous, San Diego climate offers us now.
Though we in the “Finest City” had a couple of weeks that hit the 40 degree mark at night along the coast, we did not suffer nearly as much as our fellow Americans back east, and to them our sympathy and support. That said, it is well known that we here in Southern California ARE thin skinned, and I feel we deserve some sympathy for our (reality based) suffering.
OK, so let me to translate that to wine.
Winter is out of here, so I say, big, full-bodied red wines, oak laden white wines, take a breather. It’s time to trend towards the new life, another cycle that can bring the feeling of enjoying wines that replicate the nuances we get from this invigorating time. Through wine, I know I will live and experience the fragrance of this budding season with the constant dipping of my proboscis into the bowl of my trusty wine vessel.
We have fresh vegetables budding from the earth’s floor. Sprouts, beans, herbs, crisp lettuce. How can we resist the offerings we’ve been blessed with? We can’t, or shouldn’t. So let’s take those beautiful delicacies and match them to the joyous benefits of wine.
Here are a few Spring wine guidelines to follow:
- Lighter white and rose’s wines are best wines to be used.
- Avoid heavily oaked whites and heavy red wines. Think steel tank fermentation, clean flavors.
- Look to the screw cap bottles. Mostly, they are made to be devoured in their youth.
I have selected some excellent wines types as well as some specific vintages and producers to look for. My recommendation is, as always, find a wine shop you like and trust and tell them what you like, or what you would like to try.
Sauvignon Blanc:
Clean, sometimes herbaceous, generally has firm acid and is great with salads and other foods.
My recommendation: 2011 Fleur de Cap Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa. For around $10, it is quite excellent, distinctive, with generous fruit and a clean, crispy finish.
White Wines from Italy:
It can be Pinot Grigio, Falanghina, Orvietto, Verdicchio, Tocai Friulano or Gavi. These wines are generally dry, quite refreshing, not oaked, with nice mineral components.
My recommendation: 2010 Friulano by Scubla, around $20. From Northern Italy, the lively acid keeps the expansive, medium weighted fruit in check. A delicious mouthful!
Riesling:
German or domestic. This is an under appreciated varietal. If you buy a fine bottle of Riesling, it will be great with food or on its own.
My recommendation: 2011 Pfeffingen Dry Riesling, Rheinphalz, Germany, under $20. I’m recommending a German Riesling, partly because it is lower in alcohol, but also because this one has honeysuckle fruit which is countered by a citric tinged acid that keeps your mouth watering.
Dry Rose’:
This can be from anywhere in the world, just make sure it is not sticky sweet. Rose’ wines are made from all kinds of red wine grapes these days, and provide an exciting companion to our foods of Spring.
My recommendation:
2011 Terre Rouge “Vin Gris D’Amador, about $15. Dry and rich, rivaling some of the best Rose’ from France. Nutmeg spice, strawberry fruit, crisp finish.
2006 Blue Cellars Syrah, Truchard Vineyard (March, 2013 - WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Syrah
Fermentation: 16 Months, 35% new French & American Oak
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes:
From the winery:
Blue cellars produces big, bold, full-bodied syrah, port, petite sirah, marsanne, Carignane, rose' and coming soon ... rousanne. All our wines deliver amazing flavor; perfect accompaniments to any meal. Produced from 100% hand-picked Napa Valley fruit, our wines are a direct expression of our wine making philosophy of “maximum extraction, minimal intervention." Through hard work and devotion to wine making, ours wines have become the favorites of Food & Wine Magazine and worthy of winning numerous awards.
Appearance:
I like the packaging color, as deep as a blue can get I suppose. The color reminds me of blueberry, which ahs a nice translation to what’s inside for me. Hard to read the vintage, and their logo stamp gets lost. The wine is very dark, red almost blue (psychological I guess) Still appearing youthful around the rim despite being seven years old.
Nose:
Deep, rich black fruits with cherry and plum. The nose is assertive, yet balanced. The fruit is very ripe, but not overly ripe. Good wood notes, solid fruit and vanilla characters, with black pepper and spice.
Texture:
From the seven years of ageing, it translates to softer a tannic and youthful acid profile. Lip smacking and succulent, it’s balanced, well weighted, rich, even, has some creaminess, and is long in the mouth and with the finish.
Flavor:
Black and blue fruits most assuredly, with some black pepper, nutmeg and vanilla oak. A touch of black olive and herbs tinge the ripe fruit quite nicely. Notes of graham cracker crust and exotic spices as well.
Serving Options:
Perfectly aged, this baby is waiting to shine around the BBQ. It’s most impressive, and for the price, a serious wow factor comes into play. Just a few hundred cases produced, it’s rare.
2011 Manincor “Reserve della Contessa” (March, 2013 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Terlano, Alto Adige, Italy
Varietal Blend: 60% Pinot Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation: Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $20.69
Broad Strokes:
This beautiful Italian wine comes from the high lands of Alto Adige, an excellent wine region near the Austrian border. A warm micro-climate in the northern tip of Italy allows for dozens of different grape varietals to flourish on the estate. Man-in-cor, literally hand on heart, is one of the leaders of the biodynamic farming movement in Europe. The entire estate is run like a cosmic whole – we are in Italy yet everyone speaks German – this region was once part of Austria’s Sud-Tirol. Five years later one of the most stunning underground self-sustaining cellars was complete, nestled next to the flamboyant 1608 manor house. All here is meticulous, even the wild flowers among the vines! The resulting wines have unmistakeable character, impressive definition, and stylistic purity. The whites are exquisitely elegant and technically impeccable.
Appearance:
Not used to seeing many Italian whites in Burgundy style bottles, but I like it. Clean and simple package and label with nice embossment. The wine is dark, but reflects light very well with shimmering gold hues. Very pretty!
Nose:
The wine has a very intriguing nose, laced with citrus, white tree fruit and some tropical fruit notes.
Texture:
Much like the Scubla Friulano we had in November, this is just a bit more full. It feels very weighty, thick in the mouth upon entry, through to the finish. It expands in your mouth, as the acidity keeps the rich fruit in check. The finish is long and clean.
Flavor:
From the tropical fruit standpoint, I get pineapple and banana, with some mango and peach. From the citrus point of view, I noted grapefruit and Mandarin Orange. From the all others category, we taste ginger, sesame, a hint of caramel.
Serving Options:
The winery says this wine will last until 2018. Interesting to try it then. Why don’t you save a few bottles and see what happens? Great with white wine foods, or as a cocktail wine.
2009 Cadre Pinot Noir, “The Architects” (March, 2013 - Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Central Coast, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 10 Months, 35% New Oak
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
(93 Points, Wine Enthusiast)
ca· dre - [kah-drey] – noun: an impassioned group that has banded together to further the cause of a movement.
Cadre Vineyards embodies the pioneering spirit of the visionaries, or “architects,” who had the foresight to plant Pinot Noir on the South central coast. The appellations of the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley, Santa Maria Valley, and Sta. Rita Hills have each brought international acclaim to the greater area, helping it rise to the top as one of the premier new World Pinot Noir producing regions. Within each of these AVA’s are four vineyards that have proven to be incredible sites for producing top-quality Pinot noir.
An innovative new World Pinot noir, Cadre is made by blending exemplary fruit from four legendary cool climate vineyards into a single wine that personifies the excellence of South central coast Pinot Noir.
Appearance:
Classy looking bottle, it speaks I’s story to the public in both the front of the label, as well as the back of the label. The wine a great hue of crimson and dark grey, lightening out slightly around the edge of the glass.
Nose:
Very spicy aromatics, and distinctively Pinot Noir, the nose keeps your head bobbing into your drinking vessel. Bing cherry, sweet cedar, plum and a touch of milk chocolate and vanilla that keeps you trying to figure which one it is. Can chocolate smell like vanilla?
Texture:
Yes, it has the beguiling Pinot Noir texture to the “max”. But it’s not “max” in weight, just in Pinot Noir experience. It is rich on the palate, medium bodied, with a lush like texture, with good back-bone, and kiwi fruit acidity (not kiwi flavor!)
Flavor:
Earthy, fruit, nutty, charcoal and spice. Fantastic! Some red licorice, vanilla, red fruits, it just keeps on coming with lovely complexities.
Serving Options:
Buy a case, and hold on for 5-8 years . . .
2009 Farrier Presshouse Red (March, 2013 - Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California
Varietal Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Carmenere
Fermentation: Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
(90 Points, Wine & Spirits)
From the Winery:
In keeping with the straight-shooting culture of Alexander Valley, winemaking at Farrier is, not surprisingly, relatively uncomplicated and totally straightforward: Focus on the vineyard. Use simple, varietally-correct winemaking techniques. Let the fruit shine through. Simple as it may be, this reductive style of winemaking takes a true artisan’s restraint. Our winemaker Graham Weerts has spent the majority of his time and considerable talents crafting exquisite Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Working closely with key members of his viticultural team, Graham set out to highlight the Cabernet-family varieties – both white and red – that reflect the innate character and authenticity of this amazing valley. Everyday people making extraordinary wines.
Appearance:
Definitely going after the early day farmers theme, the label and the web site depict the Alexander Valley in a time well past the present. To that point, good job on the story and the graphics. The wine is very dark, and clings to the bowl.
Nose:
Very nice, deep black fruits jump out to you. Very extracted, but well focused and tuned. Going after the Bordeaux varietals, the nose features good oak tones, Cabernet fragrance with a bit of herb lacing the rich fruit.
Texture:
It has a very nice feel in the mouth, with a medium to medium-full weighted texture. It’s kind of silky, with a very agreeable structure of deep fruit and matching acid.
Flavor:
Big, with ripe black berry, currant and a touch of roasted nuts and sweet vanilla oak. There is a cola/root beer character I found quite attractive, along with black pepper, cinnamon and mocha cappuccino thingy.
Serving Options:
Drinking very well now, it will undoubtedly last another 5 or so years. Great will grilled meats of all types, I can see this one at my table this summer after marinating and grilling a filet.
2009 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon (March, 2013 - Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Sonoma, California (Mayacamas Mountains)
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: New Oak
Suggested Retail: $80.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $67.49
Broad Strokes:
(92 Points, Wine Advocate)
This is one of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon’s I have tasted for quite awhile. My notes came with three WOW’s!!!, which may be some kind of record for me. I want to give you a few of my notes, and then turn it over to the quite interesting story with accolades about this wine and winery.
Appearance:
Classy looking bottle, good looking wine.
Nose:
WOW. Black olive, intense fruit, olive, smoke, black berry mineral.
Texture:
WOW! Great depth, lovely on the palate, totally pleasing with fabulous balance.
Flavor:
WOW! Almost sugar like sweet fruit, in the best of meanings: rich, intense, firm on oak.
Proprietor:
Robert Mark Kamen
Growing up in a city housing project in the Bronx and earning a Ph.D in American Studies from the University of Pennsylvania, Robert believes everything happens for a reason, and yet nothing in his life was ever planned. His screenwriting career started quickly with the unexpected sale of his first screenplay. While visiting friends in Sonoma to celebrate this success, he happened upon the 280 acre property. After falling in love with the view, he purchased what is now his vineyard estate and the muse for his bottled screenplay – Kamen Estate Wines.
Robert has enjoyed an uninterrupted film career with over twenty of his screenplays becoming major motion pictures, among them: Taps, The Karate Kid series, Fifth Element, The Professional, Transporter series, A Walk in the Clouds, Lethal Weapon III, Taken and Taken II. When he is not occupying seat 6A of American Airlines travelling for his films or the wines he produces, visitors often find him at his desk in Sonoma working on future film scripts or worrying about the weather.
Winemaker's Tasting Notes:
The 2009 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon is an extremely aromatic wine, with layers of dark stone fruits, ripe strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and Bing cherries; complemented by notes of roasted nuts, crushed sage, violets, mocha, crème de cassis, star anise, and creamy toasted French oak. The flavors are lively, clean and focused. The tannins are firm without being aggressive and are in perfect balance with the fruit intensity, leading into a substantial and persistent finish. This wine is enjoyable now and will age gracefully over the next 10-15 years.
2010 Achaval Ferrer, Quimera (March, 2013 - Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 38% Malbec, 24% Merlot 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: 40% New Oak, 60% One Year Old Barrels
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $34.19
Broad Strokes:
(91 Points, The Wine Advocate and The Wine Spectator)
Three years back, we took one of our wine touring groups to Argentina to discover the wines and foods from the land. We had a stop at Achaval-Ferrer, which proved to be one of the most amazing winery visits I have ever experienced. That means hundreds of winery visits, and this was so special. They were harvesting the day we were there, and the place was abuzz with activity.
The thought that has gone into the winery, its meaning, the production, the vineyards, the use of gravity and the land, were all so keen and focused on the right things. I still have visuals of looking down into a tank (below the surface, gravity fed) of brooding dark red grape juice that looked like a soup of wine waiting to be put away. It was awesome.
Appearance:
Good looking package, the long and narrow label is distinctive, and sports a Latin look. The bright purple edges of the wine have the look of Welch's Grape Juice. With the color of plum skin with a little black mixed in, and it is nearly opaque.
Nose:
Exotic, rich, heady and firm, it is solid and a rock that needs years to soften. Big berry fragrance, sweet dark berry compote, earth, mushrooms, forest floor, gravel and honey
Texture:
Extremely well balanced, and even with its significant, hearty power, there is still a touch of silk and velvet in the texture. A significant presence in the mouth, it is balanced with tannins and pomegranate style) acid with a drying finish.
Flavor:
From the nose, big dark berry presence, earthy (dark soil) mushrooms, hot stones, mineral and beeswax: Rosemary and lavender as well. It is just so dynamic!
Serving Options:
This wine will develop another 10-15 years, easily, and become one of the finer, more unique wines we could enjoy in the future. I implore you to buy 6-12 bottles, whatever works, and put them away for a special moment in the future.
Polenta with Roasted Red Peppers
Here is a cool appetizer for your next get together with a group of friends. You can make the sauce in advance, and just cook up the polenta at the last minute to serve warm. Serves 8 people.
Use the 2011 Manincor “Reserve della Comtesse” as your matching wine.
Ingredients:
- 24 ounces, prepared polenta, plain or sun-dried tomato flavor, cut into 1.5-inch squares
- 3 roasted red peppers
- 1/4 cup of red pepper oil (From roasting red peppers)
- 1/2 cup calamata black olives, pitted
- 2 tablespoons capers
- 3/4 cup flat-leaf parsley
- 1 small shallot, chopped fine
- 1 clove garlic, chopped fine
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Method:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- Wash red peppers, coat with olive oil.
- Place peppers in roasting pan and bake for 25-30 minutes until soft. It’s OK if they get dark or black on the outside.
- Allow peppers to cool. Peel skin off, clean out the seeds, while retaining the oil from the peppers
- Preheat grill pan to high.
- Slice polenta and brush lightly with oil. Grill 2 or 3 minutes on each side to score the cakes and warm them.
- Place peppers, olives, capers, parsley, onion, garlic and red pepper flakes in the red pepper oil and integrate them lightly by whisking them firmly.
- Top the mix on the warmed polenta with spoonfuls and serve.