Wine Club Newsletter - September 2011
Wine Economics 101, 2011
A lot of our WineSellar customers ask me what is happening in the wine market today, such with the way the economy is.
The answer is, a lot of things are happening, on all sides of the industry. The production and distribution side as well as the retail arm of the industry have all seen major shifts in pricing, inventory levels, and marketing. It is a challenging time for all involved in those in the profession of making or selling wine. If you are just recently starting out in this industry, you will be challenged to survive.
Today is a buyers market, one of the best I’ve seen for 25 years. We are getting top quality wines for sharply reduced prices. We are selling twice as much wine under $20 a bottle than we ever have, and fewer wines in the $80-$200 price level.
Those wines for under $20 are excellent, produced by thoughtful and creative growers and wine makers. A few months back I wrote about a young group of producers who are redefining the industry. They posses a very interesting take on positions and attitudes in today’s wine market, especially dealing with the producers, wine makers, distributors, the sales people, and perhaps, without them directly knowing it (I believe) the consumer.
They are looking to eschew traditional winemaking practices to the level of inter mixing vintages, varietals, sense of origin, etc. to whatever they feel will make the best wines. A lot of these wines are coming in under $20, and are very exciting as well as user friendly.
The wines priced in the $20-$50 level are essentially those who have chosen to hold their prices over the rush to raise their levels in accordance with some other producers. Great wines and values are still in this price range, and our WineSellar customers are finding them quite attractive.
We still sell wines in the stratospheric price levels, $400-$3,000 a bottle. There are still collectors out there with strong resources, and China is on a constant search for high-end French wines. In fact, because of China demanding large amounts of fine Bordeaux, the prices have gone beyond what wine consumers in the United States are willing to pay.
So we don’t sell first growth new release Bordeaux, but we do sell a good bit of older Bordeaux. New release first growth prices are not realistic for the typical consumer. Not too many of us can afford $5,000-$10,000 for a case of wine.
This is a very interesting dynamic, and perhaps a dangerous one, as the French are ignoring an established market, the United States, to take a risk on the Chinese. The Chinese are willing to buy only a few of the top Bordeaux wines, including First Growths. The rest don’t have strong appeal to them, and are generally not well known in the states, so the price gap will be quite wide for Bordeaux wines.
Here in the States, I think back just a few years ago: our retail clients would come in to the store and purchase rare, new release Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for $200-$300 a bottle and more. A Within a few weeks or months, some of these people would then sell the same bottle to another collector for an additional couple hundred dollars, who had to have the wine at any cost. I don’t see much if any of that anymore.
Also, back five years ago, I saw producers raising their release prices, almost like betting against the other producer who had just raised his bottle price by $50. “My wine is as good as that!” was an oft heard battle cry.
Today, those producers are toeing the line between carrying too much back inventory and facing the prospect of lowering the prices, which if not done correctly, can damage the image and perceived value of the winery and its product.
Finally, one category that has jumped for us is selling off market wines. That is, wines that have been off the market for years.
We have about 200 wine collectors who rent wine storage space from us, keeping their collections safe under the correct conditions. At some point, some collector gets what we call the 3D’s. They got into Debt, got Divorced, or stopped Drinking. In other words, they need to Divest themselves of their liquid assets.
We will inspect and appraise their collection and make arrangements to purchase and then sell the wine to other collectors, or for use in the Brasserie Restaurant. This is especially exciting for wine consumers, because this offers a chance to buy a wine that has been cellared properly and is nearing its optimum consumption period.
Just looking at some of these treasures get wine nuts panting hard.
And it does the same for me too!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2007 Chardonnay, Stephens, York Mountain (September, 2011 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: San Luis Obispo County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $14.60
Broad Strokes:
Here’s a wonderful, crowd pleasing Chardonnay. Hard to find Chardonnay this good for $14 or so. The Stephens winery is an offshoot of York Mountain Winery, the project of proprietor Steve Goldman. This single vineyard Chardonnay is charming and worthy of being on our table for our next meal.
Appearance:
It’s kind of an unassuming package overall, and the script on Stephens is hard to read. Not so sure I am sold on the dark red foil for a white wine, but I suppose it is designed to match the color of the script. The wine is crystal clear and glistens beautifully in the light, reflecting its coloring of yellow corn.
Nose:
I don’t get this too often, but I love it. It has the scent of fresh sea water, or the ocean. Very nice, that is. Also liked the good Chardonnay fruit, with lemon and spices, vanilla oak. I also got notes of white pepper, melon and kiwi.
Texture:
The wine is unctuous and rich, and has a creamy palate feel that I like very much. There is a hint of citric (lemon) acid that being countered with the creaminess, makes the wine flow through the palate really well.
Flavor:
Perfect Chardonnay varietal character is pleasing to me. There is a touch of citric acid, which I will call a Meyer lemon note. Some apricot fruit steps up, as does the vanilla, saffron, sweet herbs, oak and the kiwi from the nose. I also noticed a nice little bite of sesame seed / nuttiness that was unique and attractive. Well done!
Serving Options:
The wine is ready today, so there is no waiting in the cellar. Drink it now with whbite flesh fish dishes, shellfish, such as lobster, clams or crab. It would also do well as an aperitif wine with light cheeses.
2009 “Maniacal”, Nelle Winery (September, 2011 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Paso Robles, California
Varietal Blend: 50% Syrah, 35% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $27.00
Broad Strokes:
Nelle winery is a tiny production entity headed by Tyler Russell, who is currently employed by Zenaida Cellars. Tyler started off in the industry in a retail store in Saratoga Springs, and after a few years moved to California to check out the production side of the industry. I must tell you, we have two Nelle wines in the clubs this month, and both are superb. This wine has a tiny 65 case production.
Appearance:
Nice looking package overall, with the label coloring and man/wolf face design reminding me of all things Paso Robles. Thank you for the screw cap, it looks land feels just fine. The wine itself is opaque, very dark, even black in the center, releasing to a dark red hue on the rim. Clear, long legs dribble like a wine tinted 30 weight oil inside the bowl.
Nose:
The enveloping fragrance of this wine makes it a big winner for me. Concentrated, inky black and red licorice jump out of the glass above the dark cherry and very ripe red fruits. Mahogany, oak, vanilla, exotic spices with graphite, lead pencil, and wet, hot stones.
Texture:
Very full bodied, and even though the alcohol is 15.8%, I hardly noticed any heat. The balance is superb, and the rich intensity gives an excellent feel in the mouth, finishing with clean fruit.
Flavor:
The flavor profile is non-stop with goodies. Black grape flavors are delicious and complex. More fruit brings cherry fruit and cherry skins, with notes of black walnut, spice, dark earth, rosemary and black olive. It definitely has a “product of the earth” feel and appeal to it. And did I taste milk chocolate in there? I think so!
Serving Options:
From today, 2011, I believe the wine has at least a decade in front of it. Keep 6-12 bottles for a few years and watch it evolve. I think it will be fantastic for many years to come.
2006 Stephen’s Cellar, Stromsoe Vineyard (September, 2011 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: San Luis Obispo County, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 100% (2-4 year old) French Oak for 20 Months
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes:
Owner/Winemaker, Steve Goldman, is son to wine pioneer Max Goldman, who was the owner/winemaker of York Mountain Winery for some 30 years. The family is credited for getting York Mountain recognized as an official California AVA in 1983. York Mountain Winery began producing wine in 1882. When the winery sold in 2001, Steve Goldman retained some key vineyards on the original ranch. This has become the new home for Stephen’s Cellar. A personal relationship with Steve has allowed the WineSellar Club access to some great wines that fly well below the radar. These are wines that are truly meant to be consumed with food.
Appearance:
The feel of the label can be interpreted in different ways dependent upon your age. The label features “Stephens” written in red cursive. One conjures images of a strobe lit sign for a hot West L.A. eatery. Or perhaps, a local bar. Or even a disco feel. In any case, it feels humble and homey yet contemporary. The wine itself is dark in color for a Pinot Noir. It offered some dark cherry hues with an ever so slight rusty edge. At 14% alcohol, it has legs of medium length.
Nose:
Brooding and compact with subtle but complex notes of Asian spice, cola, espresso, clove, cinnamon… This wine just continues to unfold with aeration. One quickly gets the impression that these are wines that are age worthy and go well with food.
Texture:
The texture is somewhat tight early on. Wound up with a silky but dry feel. And then the food comes… Suddenly, the wine is bright and uplifting and cuts through the richest of dishes. And when you have a salad with vinaigrette, the acid in the wine matches and you are left with a beautiful rich mouth full of clean, balanced Pinot fruit. What a wine!
Flavor:
Once again, you have a wine that changes and evolves the longer it is open. Clove, cinnamon, red cherry, cranberry and other red (high toned) fruits are found. The finish is reminiscent of cola and sassafras.
Serving Options:
Cellar and drink. After trying your first one, I would wait 2-3 years before trying the next. Then another year or two after for each one you have put away. After some 30+ years of winemaking experience, Steve Goldman knows how to make wines that age. Keep in mind, the vineyard for this wine is only 7 miles from the ocean and at high elevation. This means cooler climate, which means, wine with higher than normal acid levels. This acid will ensure that this wine will get significantly better with cellaring. We have his 1996 Pinot in the store right now and it is drinking beautifully.
2009 Grenache, Nelle Winery (September, 2011 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Paso Robles, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Grenache,
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $27.00
Broad Strokes:
Nelle winery is a tiny production entity headed by Tyler Russell, who is currently employed by Zenaida Cellars. Tyler started off in the industry in a retail store in Saratoga Springs, and after a few years moved to California to check out the production side of the industry. I must tell you, we have two Nelle wines in the clubs this month, and both are superb. This wine has a tiny 65 case production.
Appearance:
Nice looking package overall, with the label coloring and man/wolf face design reminding me of all things Paso Robles. Thank you for the screw cap, it looks land feels just fine. The wine itself is beautiful looking, with a darkness to the magenta hue. Clear, long legs drip slowly inside the bowl.
Nose:
As with our other Nelle selection, Maniacal in the Two Rouge Club, the nose is exceptional. A fabulous deep fruit compote of cherry and berry is laced with dark wood notes, spices, earth and a hint of smoke. As it evolved, stewed cherries, kirsch, Asian spice, cola and root beer. I love it!
Texture:
Very full bodied, and even though the alcohol is 15.6%, I hardly noticed any heat. The balance is superb, and the rich intensity gives an excellent feel in the mouth, finishing with assertive but not overbearing fruit.
Flavor:
Focused, impactful, concentrated strawberry fruit makes you stop and think you are having dessert. However, it is not sweet, but instead well balanced and powerful. The dark wood notes are beautiful, as is the Asian spice, root beer, cherry cola and that hint of smoke.
Serving Options:
This wine is intoxicating with its balance and flavors. I have trouble keeping it off the table. I have had it with pasta dishes, grilled chicken and meats, and with an assortment of fine cheeses. It excels wherever and whatever I place it with.
2006 Ramian Malbec, Diamond Mountain District (September, 2011 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Malbec
Fermentation: 60% New French Oak
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $29.99
Broad Strokes:
Ramian Estate has quickly become Napa’s new “insider’s” wine. Owner/winemaker, Brian Graham, underwent formal wine training at the University of Bordeaux. After graduating, he traveled Europe as a cellar rat, working in small and large wineries in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont and Rioja. Upon returning to the U.S., Brian gained employment at Merryvale Winery located at the epicenter of the wine business, Napa Valley. There he worked closely with Bob Levy (Harlan winemaker), with all aspects of production. When the time was right, Brian started his own small winery.
Appearance:
Good looking package with a high-shouldered bottle, a minimalist look, but still quite striking. Small black label with the circled “R”. is again, understated, but very strong. The wine carries a beautiful black cherry hue, which is opaque at the core, thinning out at the rim. It coats the inside of the glass very well, leaving youthful, purple curtains.
Nose:
Classic Malbec fragrances of mulberry, dark red fruits, herbs and underbrush. Nice whiff of freshly sawed wood reveals itself early, and then after ten minutes takes on the complex characters wood offers to well made wine: vanilla, spice, and roasted nuts. Also noted on the nose is a really cool essence of mocha, dark chocolate and blueberry.
Texture:
It has a commanding presence, demanding attention and thought. Alcohol is 14.5% getting up there, but it still holds its own very well in the balance department. Tannins are present and steak-worthy. It could be described as subtle, yet "big-boned" in the mouth, still very easy to drink. It has an even palate feel throughout the start and finish, and lingers in your mouth for half a minute after swallowing.
Flavor:
The fruits offered are that of dark berry fruits, blueberry, cherries, and boysenberry. You’ll notice a hint of caramel, vanilla, marshmallow and a touch of dusty earth. Spicy nuances offer up white pepper and cinnamon, and finishes up very smooth. Lots of fun, lots of flavors.
Serving Options:
From today, 2011, I believe the wine has at least a decade in front of it. Keep 6-12 bottles for a few years and watch it evolve. Great with grilled meats!
1996 Pinot Noir, Stephens, York Mountain (September, 2011 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: San Luis Obispo County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 2 Years French Oak
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.50
Broad Strokes:
Imagine, this Pinot Noir was not even released until 2008, twelve years after the vintage. That’s pretty amazing! From the York Mountain Appellation, this will truly be one of the most unique Pinot Noirs you have ever tried. I really liked it, as it reminded me of what Kalin Winery does with their Pinot Noirs, holding them for a decade of more
Appearance:
It’s kind of an unassuming package overall, and the script on Stephens is hard to read. The wine has some red hues to it, but mostly it has the color of father time on all wines that have aged well. Bit has nice visual of black tea, with burnished edges, going clear out to the rim. It’s a very pretty wine, and it’s looking correct for its age.
Nose:
This is a most intriguing nose. I kept going back to it as it changed and evolved, taking on aged nuances you don’t find in newly released wines: tobacco, cigar box, cognac dried fruits, autumn leaves, dark herbs, earth, and a nice scent of dark wood. This of course was aided by scents of kirsch, classic Pinot Noir fruits, and improving with air.
Texture:
Medium to medium light in weight, but long and expressive in the palate. It is elegant, the fruit and acid are balanced well. It was interesting to see how the fruit and the acid played off each other as the wine opened up.
Flavor:
Mature Pinot Noir fruit is so much fun! Again, elegance, length and balance dance joyfully across the palate, expressing stewed cherry, prune, dates, roasted nuts, tobacco and surprisingly, even a hint of Bourbon.
Serving Options:
The wine is ready today, so there is no waiting in the cellar. You could keep it another year or two, but it may not improve the wine any. Drink it now with light cheeses, or an after dinner smoke.
Sauteed Chicken Breast with Whole Grain Mustard and Sage
Here is a tasty recipe that can be put together in about a 30 minutes . For me, sage and mustard feel like a classic combination for chicken.I would serve the with the
2009 Nelle “Maniacal”
Ingredients:
- 4 boneless chicken breast halves, with skin (about 1 1/4 pounds)
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Flour, for dredging
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter optional
- 1/2 cup white wine or dry white vermouth
- 1 1/2 cups white or brown chicken broth, homemade or low-sodium canned
- 8 medium whole fresh sage leaves, plus more for garnish
- 1 1/2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
Method:
- Preheat a large skillet over medium-heat, for about 1 minute or until the surface of the pan is uniformly hot.
- While the pan heats pat the chicken dry, and season the skin-side with salt and pepper.
- Spread flour onto a plate and lightly dredge the chicken in the flour to coat. Shake off the excess flour. Add the oil to the pan.
- Lay the chicken skin side down into the pan and saute over high heat for 1 minute. Lower the heat to medium-high and cook the chicken until browned, about 3 minutes.
- Add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan.
- Turn the breasts over and cook for another 5 to 8 minutes, or until firm to the touch.
- Remove chicken from the pan to a plate and keep warm while you make the sauce.
- Add the white wine or the vermouth to the pan, and with a wooden spoon, scrape up the browned bits that have collected on the pan
- Cook the wine until syrupy over high heat, about 3 minutes.
- Add the chicken broth, the sage, and reduce the sauce by 1/4 or until thickened.
- Off the heat, whisk in 1 to 3 tablespoons butter and the mustard, to enrich, flavor, and thicken the sauce. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper.
- Pour the sauce onto a serving platter or divide among 4 plates, put chicken on the sauce, and serve.
(For a cream sauce add 2 to 4 tablespoons cream to the sauce after the broth has reduced).