Wine Club Newsletter - March 2012
Wine Judging: Taking the High Dive
Over the weekend of March10-11, I was given the honor (and task) of judging wines for the San Diego International Wine Competition. The Wine Competition is in its 29th year of existence, one of five of these annual competitions based in our city.
There were approximately 40 of us judges, (some of the participants having been there since inception). The make up of people include winery owners, winemakers, Sommeliers, owners and buyers for restaurants and wine shops, wine distributors, wine writers, and a few non-industry connoisseurs (self described lushes).
The competition had somewhere north of 1,700 wines submitted from across our nation, as well as imports from other wine producing lands.
The wine producers submit their wines in hopes of getting recognition in terms of being awarded a medal at some level. The final results of the awards we bestowed were: Silver (626), Gold (235), Platinum (54), Best in Class (15), Best of Show (7), and Wine of the Year (1).
I was really happy to see the Wine of the Year ended up being my stand out vote, the 2008 Calcareous Syrah from Paso Robles at a mere $34 a bottle. The wine stood out for its character, quality, it was true to the varietal, complex and very well balanced. I loved the wine and I loved the fact that I voted for it. I felt passionate about that wine being tops.
As you may know, I have been tasting and analyzing wines for over three decades. In the beginning of forming The WineSellar & Brasserie, I was testing at least 100-150 wines a week to further my wine knowledge and to offer the best possible wines and values to my customers. And, because, I just love the stuff!
Part of my education came from being on the tasting panel for the California Grapevine, a publication that samples dozens of wines each month and sends assessments of their findings to their subscribers. Whilst on the panel, I discovered they have tradition to mark a panelist who is having a less than spectacular session of wine evaluation, which they refer to as a “High Dive”.
Typically, each Grapevine Panel session will have around 12 members, each of whom independently evaluate 18-25 or more wines in one evening. As a panel member, you vote for a first, second, and third place wine for the flight of wine presented. It sounds fine on the surface, but if you happen to vote a wine first place, and no one else does, that’s OK. However, if no one votes it second place, you’ll hear some group rumblings with tones of anticipation.
That’s because if no one votes it for a third place, you just took a “High Dive”. You would be the only one to vote for the wine out of the group. This means you faced some good-natured (but questioning) commentary from the panel. You need to have some thick skin on this one.
After the good natured ribbing that night, your only chance at redemption was attending the annual “California Grapevine ‘High Dive’ Pool Party”, where the panelists bring in some of the years finest selections to BBQ with. If you “High Dived” that year, you are required to bring in the wine you solely voted first place for a second look before the group. This is a great tradition, in that it (rarely) gave emancipation to the one who rose above the panel for a wine that was worthy, and to others, in resignation (most often), a humbling confirmation to an off night on the tasting panel.
So as I am evaluating wines in The San Diego Wine Competition for the first time, I am wondering if I am going to take a “High Dive” in front of forty tasters, voting by hand in the same room. I was fortunate enough to avoid that at the California Grapevine panel, but this was a new group, under new circumstances, and I haven’t been testing 100 or more wines a week for years. Would I be the lone one to raise a hand because my palate was now a mere welcome mat to a fringy wine? No chance to blend in with the others, either, as I was sitting in the very front table, by myself, so when I voted, everyone knew what I did.
To further my insecurity, there is a different, younger generation of judges that have a fresh but different set of criteria for wine evaluation than do the other, more established panelists, of which I fancy myself. That is not to say there are opposing goals, only different ways to reach the best end result; the result being voting for the wines that are worthy of a San Diego Wine Competition Medal.
I made it through. In fact, nobody took a “High Dive”, at the San Diego Wine Competition, a relief to anyone who experienced the room empty of all but two or three hands raised on a vote. Every time there was a paltry, miniscule showing of first places votes, the fellow hand raisers would comment to each other: “Yeah, I got your back!”
But for me, it was interesting to see how my generation differed from the next, upcoming group, in terms of the methodology and experience of evaluating wines. I have hired and have in my employ people who have been involved in becoming a Sommelier with a degree in said field. This means this person has endeavored to commit their livelihood to becoming the most informed, articulate, knowledgeable reference they could be, should anyone hope to engage them in conversation about what they need to know about buying an alcoholic beverage, most likely a bottle of wine.
This is admirable to me. For years, I have been entrusted by my clients who need wine for certain circumstances without my uttering a word about it’s terroir, residual sugar, barrel fermentation, acidity levels, the winemaker, the vineyard, and sometimes even the high score it received in a recent publication. However, imparting educational information is also quite valuable to everybody.
Wine is a most fascinating hobby, one that will let you get involved to the extent you wish. There is no end to the infinite matters of facts involving the tens of thousands of wines produced each year. Just ask anyone who is studying to become a certified Sommelier.
But for me, I’ll just slog along . . . “Does It Taste Great, Gary?” “Yup!”
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2007 Chateau Pouilly, Pouilly Fuisse, Cuvee 1551 (March, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Pouilly-Fuisse, France
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $26.99
Broad Strokes:
From the founding (1551 AD) Chateau of the famed Pouilly Fuisse region of Burgundy comes this beautiful elegant Chardonnay discovery: It’s a gorgeous example of why the finest French white wines are so renowned. Check out the price, it’s a total steal. The combined suggested retail package for the WineSellar Club this month is $50. That’s 30% off before your additional purchase discount. Anyway, this wine is just fabulous, and I am very proud to present it to you. My wife immediately demanded a case for our home use, to which I will happily oblige.
Appearance:
Classic and beautiful French Burgundy packaging, with the embossed family crest as well as the windows of the Chateau in the drawing. Easy to read, and a good looking cap as well. The wine is clean looking, with some white corn coloring with a greenish tinge. It is very viscous and clings to the glass very well.
Nose:
This Pouilly-Fuisse has a complex, perfumed nose, which is nice and buttery, followed by white flowers and orange-Meyer lemon citrus notes. It just keeps getting better, with roasted red pepper, spice, ginger, canned peach, pear, smoke, roasted nuts and vanilla. Totally awesome!
Texture:
The wine is medium-full in body. It has a very creamy, smooth entry after airing for about 10 minutes to reduce the good line of mineral and acid. In fact, the acid on this wine is just about perfect, and it belies its relatively older vintage, still tasting solid without a hint of fading.
Flavor:
If you close your eyes, you can almost imagine this wine has the feel and complexities of a red wine. People have been fooled by these things, you know. The peaches and oak flavors come through quite nicely, and are surrounded by the Mandarin orange and citrus elements. With the vanilla from the oak, it gives me that old 50-50 orange ice cream bar from my youth. Spice, ginger, anise, toasted oak, roasted chestnuts, sesame seed, stone fruits, flower blossoms and on and on . . .
Serving Options:
Buy a case or two. This wine was selling for $38 a bottle at a shop in Northern California. It will impress your friends and you. I know it did me one heck of a lot. The wine still has a few years to go on it, so don’t worry about the vintage date. Truly folks, one of the finest white wines.
2010 Bodegas Borebore, Martin Fierro Malbec (March, 2012 - The WineSellar Club; The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: San Juan, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 100% Malbec
Fermentation: 8 Months in Barrel
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $9.89
Broad Strokes:
Founded in 1936 by Italian immigrants, Bodegas Borebore has been producing outstanding wines through a few different labels of theirs. Borebore winery is family-run operation near the Andes Mountains at an elevation of approximately 2,500 feet. We have selected this wine for our club to balance the pocketbook from our companion selections for the WineSellar Club and the Two Rouge. This is a very fun everyday drinking wine that has distinctive Malbec characteristics.
Appearance:
Handsome and simple label gets the point across, it’s Malbec from Argentina. However, the word Malbec is in small gold font and is hard to read. So is the vintage date in the top corner. Looks good but does it work? The old form versus function debate goes on, I suppose. Very pretty and bright cherry skin hue at the core, getting to magenta/pink/clear at the rim.
Nose:
Cherry and wood notes dominate the aromatic package overall. There is a nice scent of freshly crushed herbs, with black pepper, cumin, and some smoke and ash. Overall, it is quite pleasant, trailing off with nice red fruits, basil, and touches of honey and maple syrup.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body. The smooth entry brings a mouth of expanding fruit and some good, weighty viscosity, making the middle pleasant and mouth filling. It finishes with a drying acid and astringency that begs for food.
Flavor:
Straight-forward cherry and earthen wood components are first to arrive, and do so in good fashion. Then the black pepper and cumin notes from the nose pop up on the flavor wheel, as does the smoke and fresh basil like herbs.
Serving Options:
I had this with one of the bigger selling lunch items we have, the Brasserie Lamb Burger. It was a good fight between them, but I can happily say both sides won. The astringent finish begs for food, especially red meats, cheese of all kinds, and hearty pasta dishes. This is not a wine to cellar, but it is an exceptional quaffer for the BBQ’s!
2008 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley (The Two Rouge Club;The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $55.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
One of California's first woman winemakers, Merry Edwards began her career at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974. She went on to become the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977 and remained there until 1984. She is a gifted winemaker, and I am a complete fan of all her wines, past and present.
As I am sitting here drinking this wine, I am tempted to call Merry Edwards herself and tell her how much I love all of the wines she has ever made, including this one. The Russian River Valley is now heralded as not only its own appellation, but as one of the finest regions for producing Pinot Noir in the modern world.
Appearance:
Merry Edwards label is folksy, and it takes a bit of effort to see the two hands holding the grapevines. Maybe time for an update? Maybe NOT! The big heavy bottle has a solid feel. The wine has a black tea hue with some red and black coloring. It has a “grainy” look to it, probably a result of avoiding filtration to keep the flavors true and forward.
Nose:
The nose is hypnotizing as I melt into it. Smoke and deep, deep cherry fruit abound, with pine nuts, some homemade jam/jelly fruit, butter, grilled bread/toast, cumin and saffron. Whew!
Texture:
It is very rich and full for a Pinot Noir. Plush on the entry, with a remarkable feel in the mouth. It is juicy, mouth watering, with a velvet and silk texture, but still seems large and looming. It is seamless, fabulous. Touch of acid shows its youth, and promises years of pleasure should you store it.
Flavor:
Deep, dark black cherry fruit is massive, yet it fits the perfect Pinot Noir profile. It keeps going and going: roasted hazelnut, scent of the forest floor, cream, black pepper, and perfect tannins.
2008 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Flax Vineyard, Russian River Valley (March, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $75.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $62.99
Broad Strokes:
One of California's first woman winemakers, Merry Edwards began her career at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974. She went on to become the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977 and remained there until 1984. She is a gifted winemaker, and I am a complete fan of all her wines, past and present.
As I am sitting here drinking the wine, I am tempted to call Merry Edwards herself and tell her how much I love all of the wines she has ever made, including this one. The Russian River Valley is now heralded as not only its own appellation, but as one of the finest regions for producing Pinot Noir in the modern world.
Appearance:
Merry Edwards label is folksy, and it takes a bit of effort to see the two hands holding the grapevines. Maybe time for an update? Maybe NOT! The big heavy bottle has a solid feel. The wine has a bit darker coloring that the Russian River counterpart, with some red and black coloring. The “Flax” also as a “grainy” look to it, probably as a result of avoiding filtration to keep the flavors true and forward.
Nose:
The nose is reserved for quite some time. It needs 45 minutes of airing to show its best complexities. The longer it was open, the more phenomenal it became. Deep, lovely black and red fruits, with gorgeous hints of tar, vanilla, roasted hazelnuts and grilled bread/dough. It is almost like smells like a freshly baked berry pie just pulled from the oven.
Texture:
Perfect. Smooth and elegant, it’s packing a good punch but with a sweet fist. Folks, this beats the texture of the greatest Red Burgundy produced. Great acid to fruit balance, excellent weight.
Flavor:
I’m just going to reel off tasting descriptors: lovely vanilla oak, deep dark cherry fruit, toasted hazelnuts, blueberry pie ala mode, mahogany, rare roast beef, cinnamon, oats/wheat/bread dough, coffee. All very exotic, in a perfectly seamless structure.
Serving Options:
This will get better as time goes on. Make sure it has been opened for 45 minutes or more to get all the nuances form this baby. Merry, you are a dream!!!
Spring Tomato Vinaigrette and Pan Roasted Chicken
Here are two simple but delicious recipes our Chef is using to teach a class later this month.
Both will do well with the 2007 Chateau Pouilly, Pouilly Fuisse, Cuvee 1551
Ingredients (Spring Tomato Vinaigrette)
- 3 Tomatoes (sliced in half)
- ½ Red Bell Pepper (seeded)
- 1 Clove of Garlic
- 1 Cup of Olive Oil
- Juice of 1 Lemon
- 3 Tablespoons of clopped Parsley
- Salt and Black Pepper to Taste
Method:
- In a blender add all ingredients and pulse.
- Store in airtight container in refrigerator for up to one week.
Ingredients (Pan Roasted Chicken)
- 2 Chicken breasts, skin on
- 4 Cups of Baby Spinach
- ¼ Cup of Shredded Asiago Cheese
- 2 Cloves of Garlic chopped
- Salt & Pepper
- Oil for cooking
Method:
- In a sauté pan, oil the pan, and turn heat on medium.
- Season both sides of chicken with salt & pepper and place skin side down.
- Cook for about 3 – 4 minutes.
- Then put into oven at 350 degrees for about 12 minutes.
- Take chicken out of pan and let rest.
- In the same pan sauté garlic add the spinach and sauté quickly.
- Place spinach on plate.
- Slice chicken, place over top of spinach, and sprinkle with asiago cheese.