Wine Club Newsletter - October 2011
Our Napa Wine Tour
I wanted to share some highlights and observations from our recent tour to Napa Valley. This was the second time in a year I had been there, and a long 15 years prior to that. We have been going global on our wine tasting tours, seeing the likes of South Africa, New Zealand, Argentina, Italy, France, Spain, and so forth.
The growth and changes in Napa Valley have been substantial and are eye opening. It no longer has that sleepy wine community feel; rather, it is an adult Disney Land for wine and food lovers. Highway 29 does not flow freely, and coagulates going into each township. It feels much more glitzy, tourist occupied, with vendors seasoned for the traveler, pushing the edge on products and services.
You can spend a lot of money here. Wine tastings can run up to $85 per person. Bottles of new release Cabernet can float up to the $200 mark, per bottle. A case or two could equal a mortgage payment for many of us.
Throughout the valley, it seems as if you cannot get a bad meal. In fact, most restaurants are exceptional in their concepts, execution, and atmosphere. We had excellent meals at Bottega, (I think my favorite), Morimoto (frustratingly loud, busy, edgy food), Farmstead, and Oenotri (well designed food and monster Italian wine selection).
We started our first day with a humble but cultural beginning, dining early lunch at Taylors Automatic Refresher (now under Gott’s ownership). A roadside burger place in St. Helena since 1949 has been renown for their burgers, tuna burgers, shakes and fries. We gobbled and drank wines as we watched the cars begin to pull in. By 11:30, there are 30 people in line waiting to order.
Our next stop was far from the crowd and glitz of the highway. We met Don Gallagher, owner and winemaker of Trespass Vineyard and winery at his vineyard. His resplendent vineyard area is situated at the base of Spring Mountain, neighbored by Spottswoode and other vineyard luminaries. Don was accommodating and funny, as he poured five selections for us. All were well made and classy, with reasonable pricing for sure. The 2005 Cabernet and 2007 Intrigue were my favorites.
Our next stop landed us at the awesome Culinary Institute of America for back to back seminars with John Ash, perhaps one of our first wine country celebrity Chefs and authors, going back to the mid nineteen eighties. The first lesson involved aromatics using the A. C. Noble Aroma Wheel. It was interactive and quite fun, not to mention a little tarnishing on my professional persona.
The second lesson was on wine and food pairing, where we were served five different wines and given two or three food items that were either similar or contrasting in flavor to the wine. It was a real eye opener for all. The most dramatic pairing involved a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, which was very crisp with acids when consumed without food. Then we had a taste of the goat cheese, which reduced the acids in the wine allowing the fruit to really come forward. Bravo!
After John Ash, We raced back to the Marriot, where Mitch Cosentino put on a private tasting for our group, amongst appetizers from Chef Brian Whitmer. Whitmer began his career under Chef Bradley Ogden at Kansas City's famed American Restaurant before moving northeast to New York's Tavern on the Green, Montrachet, and The Polo Club, where he worked with culinary genius Daniel Boulud. In fact, Whitmer's stint at Montrachet earned the restaurant a three-star rating from the New York Times. Well, Cosentino wines were just outstanding, and we got a chance to revisit the Freddie Couples wines, as well as a Haut Brion Blanc hybrid that I think will become a WineSellar Wine Club wine in the near future. Just a killer blend of barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. All at GREAT prices.
Speaking of the Wine Club, our first stop the next morning was at August Briggs new tasting room in Calistoga. We had their Pinot Noir in The Gary Parker Collection, and it was a star this day as well.
Time to eat! We had an exquisite outdoor luncheon at Farmstead Restaurant in St. Helena, with perfectly prepared, fresh, organic foods. The setting was perfect; the wines were fun, the weather perfect. The whole experience just felt like a consummate, contemporary, Napa Valley state of affairs.
After lunch, we were invited to the home of DG Family winery, and new concern in Napa Valley. DG Vineyards is situated just across from Caymus Vineyards, and their gorgeous home is plunked in the center of it all. Gianna Gasperina and winemaker Chris Phelps gave us the family treatment. (Chris has done winemaker dinners for the Brasserie when he was winemaker at Dominus and now Swanson Vineyards). This was a memorable visit with great people and excellent wines.
Off we go to Napa Valley, where we cleanse our wine soaked palates with some micro brews, overlooking the river, and waiting for our dinner reservation at Oenotri to come to fruition. We had 2008 Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet out of magnum, which lived up to its 98-point Parker rating.
Next morning, Del Dotto winery received us for what turned out to be a remarkable tasting and tasting format. You actually sample from barrels, and they then bottle and ship them to you at a later date. We tasted through much of their 2009 selections, and our group latched on to them hard. The bottles averaged around the $100 range, and the barrel tasting alone is $60.
Bleary eyed, as we were back from the caves of Del Dotto, our next stop was at Woodhouse Chocolates in St. Helena. Owned by John and Tracy Anderson. We got to watch the behind the scenes action, seeing them pour the molten chocolate into the molds and sample some incredible creations. This is a must stop for any traveler. I mean delicious!
Then we were off to our final hurrah at Silenus Vintners, a co-op of artisan winemakers. Here we enjoyed eleven different wines with food catered by Bottega. It was a very nice, casual setting outdoors, and a relaxing way to end our last afternoon on our Napa trip.
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2010 Mer Soleil “Silver” Chardonnay (October, 2011 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Santa Lucia Highlands, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Stainless Steel & French Cement Tanks
Suggested Retail: $26.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $20.25
Broad Strokes:
From the winery: Silver captures the crisp, pure, mineral essence of the classic Chablis style with the tropical elements found in Chardonnays of the Pacific coastline.
Using Chardonnay grown in special blocks of the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County, we harvest the grapes when just fully ripe, their gold color hued with green, expressing clean aromas of Chardonnay fruit and firm acidity. The grapes were pressed and fermented in both stainless steel and natural cement tanks imported from France, with no oak contact or malolactic fermentation. We bottle the wine early in the year to maintain its fresh character and crisp citrus finish.
Appearance:
One of the most unique packages I have seen in quite some time. It is reminiscent of a wine I drank for special occasions back in the 1960’s, Lancers, with its opaque, ceramic looking exterior and flanged top. Folks, I think this packaging is very cool, brave and quite a statement. If I were judging this in a competition, I would give it top ranking. But I must say that my judgment would be swayed because I know Mer Soleil as a quality wine, and I know Chuck Wagner as a top Winemaker in California (Caymus), and I know this is going to be high quality. On a lesser wine, this packaging would seem more gimmicky to me.
Nose:
Mineral and chalk come though nicely, with reserved and tight Chardonnay fruit. It is very clean, in that the fruit and mineral come through without being dull. Let’s call it a bright nose that is clean and true to the varietal, Chardonnay. Yes, very Chablis like, as in French Chablis. You know, the high quality one, not the grocer’s selection.
Texture:
I like the feel in the mouth. It has a good crispness to it, without drying out the palate. Good line of acid, some of it citric acid, albeit balanced and in very fine harmony with the fruit. It’s not a palate buster, but let me say it again, the balance is fabulous. As it opens up, you start to smack your lips as you feel the acids giving way to a lengthy, lush, viscous texture.
Flavor:
The chalk and mineral come though with the Chardonnay fruit, very well. I like the way this wine lays out. The fruit is gentle, but present. White pear and peach, apple, and a touch of gooseberry counter the citrus (lemon/grapefruit) characteristics.
Serving Options:
Just showing the package off to your friends will get some attention. I think it should be served at an exciting art exhibit, a charity event, or lunch with the ladies. You’ll be amazed trying this with goat cheese. It is meant for early consumption, but will improve for another 18 months or so. I love this product!!!
2010 Aruma Malbec, Mendoza (October, 2011 - The WineSellar Club; Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 100% Malbec
Fermentation: Stainless Steel & French Oak
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $16.20
Broad Strokes:
From the winery: Aruma is made by Bodegas Caro, which is a joint venture between Nicolas Catena and the Lafite Rothschild family. Originally from France, Malbec was introduced to Argentina by a Frenchman, Jean Pouget, in 1868, which was ironically the same year that James de Rothschild bought Château Lafite. A very fruity, exuberant and powerful grape, Malbec has adapted wonderfully to the Mendoza region where the sunshine and cool nights soften its tannins and reveal its velvety-smoothness. ‘Aruma’ means ‘night’ in the local dialect of the Quechua, native Indians of the Mendoza region.
Appearance:
I think the packaging is perfect for this wine. It speaks to Domaines Baron de Rothschild and Nicholas Catena both, as well as to the land of Argentina. The Domaines de Rothschild cap doesn’t hurt either. I also love the color of the label, and the fingernail sliver of the moon, representing the night. The wine is dark, very dark, and has serious viscosity evidenced by the slowly dripping legs.
Nose:
The nose is unbelievable, hosting a myriad of aromas. Black pepper and chocolate with a nice dash of fresh oak. I got some anise, mint (eucalyptus), spices, cinnamon and nutmeg. Fruits were of plum, boysenberry, blackberry and ripe prunes. But that’s not to say it was prune like. Earthy notes are of underbrush, road tar, and black soil. Yeah, that about does it.
Texture:
Medium in body. Not overbearing or rich. It starts of a little tannic, spritz like and unyielding. But of course opens and becomes more generous as it evolves with air. You can feel the 14.5% alcohol in your mouth.
Flavor:
I find this wine is quite exciting, especially to be in this price range. It offers a great deal of aromatic and palate complexities, and keeps coming with more and more. You will enjoy the flavors of deep dark cherry, with notes of blackberry and plum, strawberry and raspberry. It is deep yet fresh, meaty, and has an intriguing smoke or smoky bacon essence to it. Also noticed sesame seed oil, fresh herbs, black pepper and dark soil.
Serving Options:
Well, it will improve for a few years in the bottle, I am pretty sure. However, why wait? It is a lot of fun to consume right now . . . maybe better six or twelve months from now, let that spritz and youthful acid mellow a bit. You know, a little ARUMA to move.
2009 Tor, Rock “Hommage Allan” Syrah (October, 2011 - The Gary Parker Collection ; Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Carneros, Napa, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 100% Syrah (Alban and Syrah Noir Clones)
Fermentation: 100% Small French Oak for 23 Months
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $32.40
Broad Strokes:
Owner/Winemaker, Tor Kenward, was a senior executive with Beringer for 27 years. During that time he studied every aspect of the wine business in a quest to see how to make the best possible wine. That quest took him to virtually every vineyard in the North Coast. As a result, when he retired and decided to make his own wine, he had a clear view of what vineyards to source from. One was the Hudson Vineyard which is the source for this great Syrah.
Appearance:
Simple, elegant, understated are words that come to mind when you see the label. The bottle is relatively heavy and feels like quality glass. On the label appears “Hommage Allan” which is a tribute to family with the name Allan. Bottom line, Tor felt that this wine was good enough to honor his family members, past and present. The wine is very dark in color and boasts a purple tinged rim. The wine is dense and compact and one can easily recognize that it was bottled without fining or filtration.
Nose:
To be perfectly honest, the aromas of this wine were a bit disappointing at first. Then, WOW! It opened up and was extremely expressive. The wine smelled purple. Violets, lavender, crushed black cherry… So many cool flavors. To me, this means, a wine that has pedigree. It has so many flavors and scents to express that it just keeps evolving and changing. YUM!
Texture:
The texture is somewhat tight early on, compact and wound up. As it starts to open up it becomes WAY more generous and open. Medium to full-bodied, it just feels good in your mouth. I opened a bottle as I started the coals to my barbeque. By the time I had finished grilling the wine was glorious. Take your time with this wine. Do not judge prematurely. Let it speak to you.
Flavor:
We agreed wholeheartedly with Tor’s description of the flavor profile. Roasted meats/game/dark spices/cloves and a pretty floral note. A black cherry note makes a dash at the finish. We also enjoyed an earthy, dark soil component. Lovely stuff!
Serving Options:
You can either cellar or drink this wine today. Keep in mind, this world class Syrah will drink beautifully over the next 5 to 7 years, and some should go to the wine collection. Before consuming throw it in the fridge for 10 minutes to cool it down to cellar temp if it’s not already. It would be great with grilled sausages and meats, olives, and ripe cheese. Enjoy!
2007 Stone Edge Farm, Cabernet Sauvignon (October, 2011 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Sonoma Valley, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot
Fermentation: 100% New French Oak for 26 Months
Suggested Retail: $60.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $48.60
Broad Strokes:
From the winery: Selected from our two organically farmed estate vineyards: Stone Edge Farm, located on the west side of the Sonoma Valley, in soils studded with the rounded stones from the ancient floods of Carriger Creek as it plunges from the steep mountains above, and Mount Pisgah Vineyard, situated some 1300 feet above the Sonoma Valley floor in the ruggedly volcanic Mayacamas Mountains that define the eastern side of the valley. The 2007 Vintage has been referred to as the vintage of the decade. A low rainfall winter led to an early bud push and reduced vine vigor, producing smaller clusters and berries with greater density of flavor.
Appearance:
The label and bottle are understated in comparison to how expressive the wine is. The emblem is difficult to read, as are the varying font styles. It’s a little like dressing a dynamic figure or model in a loose fitting tee-shirt. You won’t know what you have until you open it. When you do, it’s beautiful. Nearly black at the core, laced on the edges with a shimmering crimson hue. It is very viscous, as the legs barely drift back down the glass.
Nose:
Focused and powerful black cherry fruit, with notes of spice, coffee and fresh herbs. It has very clean and balanced aromatics. The bell pepper classic to Cabernet Sauvignon varietal is right there, not too heavy or domineering, and melds well with the vanilla oak.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in body. The weight of it is pleasant, certainly not overbearing, and provides a “juicy” sensation that is mouthwatering. Slightly tannic acid notes are not bothersome in the least, as the wine is still relatively young. The finish will become softer and more complete with either years in the bottle or a couple hours in the glass.
Flavor:
The black cherry fruit dominates the early flavors, and gives to some sweet vanilla oak, underbrush, wood and herbs. Also noted were clove, some cinnamon, and ripe raspberry. The finish has a bit of cherry-cola flavor, which I think is really cool. Also, you must let the wine be open for an hour or so. For me, it is now coming on strong, especially on the finish. Getting Mighty-Mighty!
Serving Options:
The winery states this is a very rich, mysterious, complex wine for collectors. It is a collector’s wine, suitable for extended cellar aging where it should peak in balanced fruit at about 12 years of age, but increase in nuanced complexity for decades more. I totally agree. Stone Edge Farm has produced a world class Cabernet Sauvignon from their organically farmed estate vineyards.
Beef Empanadas
Our good friend and fellow traveler Julie Ruedi made these for a wine tasting party. They were the hit of the evening, and she shared the recipe with us. Thanks Julie!
Great with the 2010 Aruma Malbec!
Ingredients:
- 2 hard boiled eggs
- ½ med onion, finely chopped
- 1 T olive oil
- 1 chopped garlic clove
- ½ t ground cumin
- ½ t dried oregano
- ¾ lb ground beef
- 2 T raisins
- 1 ½ T chopped pimiento-stuffed olives
- 1 (14 oz) can chopped tomatoes, drained, reserving 2 T juice
Method:
- Cut each egg crosswise into 10 thin slices.
- Cook onion in olive oil in a med skillet over med heat, stirring frequently, until softened.
- Add garlic, cumin, & oregano & cook, stirring, 1 minute.
- Stir in beef & cook, breaking up lumps with a fork, until no longer pink, about 4 min.
- Add raisins, olives, ½ t salt, ¼ t pepper, & tomatoes with reserved juice, then cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced but mixture is still moist, about 5 min.
- Spread on a plate to cool.
- Roll out empanada dough and cut circles of 6” (meal size), 3” or 1.5” (appetizer size).
- Place meat mixture on disk & top with 2 slices of egg.
- Moisten edges of disk with water & fold over to form a semicircle, then crimp with a fork.
- Make more empanada in same manner.
- Brush with oil & bake on an oiled baking sheet in 425o oven until golden, about 10 min.