Wine Club Newsletter - February 2024
UV Light in the Vineyards
UV Light in the Vineyards
Wine regions that receive higher levels of UV light are finding it comes with unexpected challenges—and benefits
In the vineyard, UV light can be just as important as temperature. It can have profound effects on the development of flavor, color, and fermentation activity. In certain places, managing this light in the vineyard can be a careful balancing act.
Full spectrum sunlight stretches from long infrared waves through the spectrum visible to the human eye—the ROYGBIV of colors a prism reveals—to the shortest of the bunch, ultraviolet rays. Among the latter, scientists divide things up even further into three bands, UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C; the last is so short that it never penetrates the ozone layer, and our only exposure to it is from welding torches and similar artificial sources. The earth’s atmosphere barely filters UV-A light at all, while the middle band, UV-B, is partially filtered by the ozone layer, water vapor, oxygen, and carbon dioxide.
While infrared light is relatively harmless, UV-A and UV-B light is to blame for wrinkles, sunburn, and skin cancer, and can even damage human DNA. Research suggests that grapevines, in contrast, feel the impact of the shorter, UV-B wavelengths more than UV-A, even though the latter is more prevalent.
At higher latitudes, UV light enters the atmosphere at an angle, and therefore passes through more of the atmosphere before it strikes the earth. That means there’s more opportunity for the atmosphere to filter it out. But at a high-altitude site like Adrianna Vineyard there is less atmosphere between space and the vine, so it forgoes some portion of that protection, and the vine is forced to respond.
“The entire vine is sensing the higher UV light,” says Buscema, “and different tissues react differently. The skins are going to increase the concentration of certain compounds, mostly phenolic compounds, that work as a natural sunblock.” The vines reduce the size of the canopy and the leaves in an effort to control transpiration; water stress actually has similar effects on the vines. The result, according to the Catena Institute, is a one-two punch that concentrates flavors and aromatics, creates complexity, and deepens the color of red wines.
The primary phenolic compounds produced in the berries are called flavonoids. “How flavonoids influence the wine flavor is likely to be primarily through their antioxidant characteristics,” says Brian Jordan, an emeritus professor of plant biotechnology at Lincoln University in New Zealand, “but they may also play a role in mouthfeel.”
“The exposure of the fruit directly to UV-B via leaf removal will have subtle effects on the metabolism and biochemistry right through to severe damage and skin browning,” says Jordan. The same holds true when deciding on row direction and vine density when planting a vineyard; both factors will affect how much of the plant’s leaves and its fruit bunches are exposed to UV-B.
Given the impact of climate change, the Northern Hemisphere may be looking to the work of Jordan and the Catena Institute in the future. Growers in both traditional winegrowing areas like Spain and lesser-known areas like Arizona are exploring higher elevation vineyards as a way to counterbalance heat and climate change. As they do, they’ll need to adapt their vineyard practices.
UV’s New Role: Disease Prevention
Vines are not the only thing in the vineyard reactive to ultraviolet light; powdery mildew and downy mildew are reactive as well, but only when UV light is applied in isolation from other parts of the light spectrum. In isolation, UV light damages the DNA of the mildews, rendering them inactive. But what UV light takes away, the visible light spectrum gives back.
“Blue light can repair the DNA damage that is caused by the UV,” says Kerik Cox, an associate professor of plant pathology at Cornell University. This means exposing the mildew to an artificial source of UV light when there’s no other light source around. “You have to do it at night to give them that chance,” says Cox.” This approach, initially used for sterilizing medical equipment in hospitals, was originally developed for agricultural use in greenhouses in the Netherlands, but has been adapted for strawberry fields, apple orchards, and vineyards.
“You build an array such that it has all these reflective surfaces,” says Cox. “It effectively makes a cloud of bouncing UV light particles. That way it gets under the leaves, and above them. Grapevines are a little less resistant than apples and strawberries, so we had to switch to UV-C, which is a little better and a little less penetrative.”
These robotic arrays arch over the vines and slowly make their way down each row to make sure any potential mildew areas are adequately exposed to the UV-C light. They have been tested in New York and Oregon, with good results. Willamette Valley Vineyards is the first commercial operation to put them to use.
It’s an entirely sustainable and organic process, leaving no residue or the copper and sulfur accumulations of traditional sprays, instead shedding new light on how to control two of the most troublesome diseases in the vineyard.
Vines, mildews, and human beings all have their own reactions to too much UV light. By better understanding these reactions, winegrowers are better able to adapt their vineyard management practices to balance the effects of UV light. Equally important, these insights are allowing winemakers to use UV light to their advantage, making wines that are deep, concentrated, and complex—and, potentially, disease free.
Seven Fifty Daily
...
Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2021 Burtech Family Maile Rose’
Growing Region Central Coast, California
Varietal Composition Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Cinsault
Fermentation Ten Months Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 12.8%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $32.39
Broad Strokes: 91 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
From The Winery: After an inspirational trip to Sonoma with family and friends, Burtech Family Vineyard was born. Dominic Burtech did not grow up in the wine industry or as an avid wine drinker, yet his family has created an amazing environment with amazing wines in Encinitas, California.
The Burtech family started with the goal of creating something special to share with those they love. After planting roughly 3,000 vines at their 11-acre horse farm estate in Encinitas, CA, Dominic Burtech knew it was just the beginning. The Burtech family recently opened a tasting room in Vista, CA, complete with a modern construction finish, indoor and outdoor lounge seating, and a crushing facility. Stop by for a curated tasting flight or to enjoy a Burtech Family Vineyard bottle with friends and family.
Appearance:
Maile is the namesake of Dominic’s Burtech’s daughter, who designed everything about the wine bottle. It is dramatic, eye-catching and quite unique in appearance, featuring the family crest, and Hawaiian lettering. The wine has a bright and light pink/copper hue.
Nose:
Off to a quiet start, it warms it’s olfactory engines after five minutes or so in the glass to present a scent of fresh strawberries, peach, and white tree fruit, especially pear. Has a nice feminine way about it: elegant, smooth . . . fresh rain, kiwi.
Texture:
Medium in weight and body. Like the nose, it starts off quite subtle until the five-minute mark. Upon opening, the flavor and texture profile become increasingly expansive. After about fifteen minutes, the fruit of the wine is developing a nice richness, feeling tighter yet more open at the same time.
Flavors:
Fresh strawberry with hints of watermelon, and kiwi are quite subtle but deliver a refreshing sensation to the drink. White tree fruit of pear, as well as delicious apple, are lined with juice of pink grapefruit and lime.
Serving Suggestions:
A great Rose’ for Sunday brunch! Slightly bitter edge on finish bodes well for food pairing.
2020 Mount Difficulty, Roaring Meg Pinot Noir
Growing Region Central Otago, New Zealand
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation French Oak
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $22.49
Broad Strokes: 90 Points for Last Four Vintages
Established in 1992, and located at the base of the mountain for which it is named, Mt Difficulty is Central Otago’s leading artisan winegrower with a pioneering heritage in the Bannockburn sub-region. Mt Difficulty was among the first to plant vineyards on the south bank of the Kawarau River, and today its terroir-driven wines are among the most famous New Zealand Pinot Noirs in the world. By stressing ethical viticulture and minimal intervention, Mt Difficulty produces wines that express their personality and reflect their unique home.
Mt Difficulty’s second label, Roaring Meg, celebrates Central Otago’s storied history. According to local legend, the original Meg was a spirited and enterprising redhead who accompanied the miners during the region’s gold rush of the 1860’s. Bold, vivacious, and unforgettable, Roaring Meg’s memory lives on in these stylish, fruit-driven wines.
Appearance:
I find everything about the packaging of this wine to be classy, well-stated, as well as distinctive. Dramatic image of the crestline of their mountain range, excellent contrasting hues, screw cap, and “Roaring Meg” on the capsule. The wine is lightly hued with purple/black, going to clear on the edges.
Nose:
Delicate yet truly pure Pinot Noir fruit essence. Floral notes of rose petal and violets, black fruit notes, hints of thyme, smoke and earth.
Texture:
Medium to medium light in weight and body. Upon entry, the wine feels quite smooth and elegant, with a touch of firming acid. Middle palate provides continued richness and interest, following through to the extending finish.
Flavors:
Black fruit, especially black plum is most forward, followed by dark red cherry, and raspberry. A mild touch of vanilla wood notes pop through, well integrated, and some black pepper, roast beef and forest floor.
Serving Suggestions:
I believe this wine is meant for near term consumption. Enjoy with mild pork or duck dishes.
2021 The Mill Keeper Red Wine
Growing Region Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition 55% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petite Verdot
Fermentation 40% French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $30.00
WineSellar Club Price $25.19
Broad Strokes:
LEGACY THAT’S ALIVE FOR TODAY. WE ARE FARMERS FIRST.
At the root level, tradition means nothing if it only looks backward. The Bale Grist Mill served as part of the early inspiration for The Mill Keeper brand, as you will see on the labels that feature scratch board artwork by Mark Summers commemorating the hardworking men and women of the mid 1800’s. We honor those pioneers and their traditions that give back to the land—yet we also bring a vibrant sense of innovation that paints a fresh vision for today’s wine drinkers.
We are enterprising people who are more comfortable standing in our work boots than we are chasing down trends, and that keeps us passionate yet down-to-earth. We make wine that celebrates and honors the everyday. After a long day spent laboring in the winery and vineyards, we’re looking forward to ending on a high note—taking a moment to drink in the fruits of our labor without tripping over a price point.
Appearance:
The “Scratchboard” art depicting a hard-working mill man is a throwback to the past, and offers drama and strength, giving the winery the perception, it holds to these standards. The wine is black at the core, magenta/black on the edges.
Nose:
Dark fruits of blackberry and boysenberry hover over the sweet, tasty scent of vanilla oak. Rounded and quite pleasant aromatics . . . black pepper, spice, Graham Cracker.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in weight and body. As the nose would indicate, the palate entry is smooth and seamless. A lovely, non-threatening feel in the mouth, rounded, soft supple and gentle tannins.
Flavors:
Just a lovely crowd pleaser! Dark fruits of blackberry, boysenberry and cherry, laced with that sweet, lovely vanilla oak and cooking spices. Cappuccino, chocolate, cocoa.
Serving Suggestions:
Lovely now and will hold for a few years. I will enjoy it often and soon!
2018 Attilo Ghisolfi, Langhe Nebbiolo
Growing Region Piedmonte, Italy
Varietal Composition 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation Nine Months in Small Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes: 91 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
Carlo Ghisolfi was abundantly aware of just how highly prized Barolo wines from Piedmont were, so in 1985 he bought nine acres of land (in what is now known as the “Cru Bussia”) to begin making wine. Carlo’s son, Attilio, continued this path by purchasing 21 more acres. But it wasn’t all vineyard land, as some of it was used for other fruit production. Until 1987, the year Carlo’s grandson, Gianmarco, joined the company and, along with his dad, they decided to focus only on grapevines and wine. In 1988, the Ghisolfi-labeled wines produced their first vintage. That wine, Barolo Bricco Visette, which is now lauded as a renowned Barolo “Cru.”
The winery’s vineyards are unique in that they have two exposures: one facing south, the perfect exposure for many of the world’s best vineyards, including these prized Barolos, and one facing north, where Attilio Ghisolfi’s Barbera comes from. These vineyards are cultivated with a great respect for the environment, without the use of chemical fertilizers or herbicides.
Appearance:
“We thought of representing the Nebbiolo as a grape that turns into a hot air balloon. The balloon rises and drags with it, slowly. The man depicted as small and blurred, represents the difficulties, uncertainties, and hardships we have faced in our growth path.”
Nose:
Baked or stewed dark red strawberries, black pepper, spices, with lovely notes of dried roses and fresh violets.
Texture:
Medium full in weight and body. Has a savory feel to it, begging for food. Good, high-end acid for foods, moderate tannins, and an expanding finish.
Flavors:
Great Nebbiolo fruit essence: red cherry, cooked strawberry, edgy tannins, baking spices, wood notes (cedar) and leather. Look for hints of truffle, anise, tobacco, dried fruits, and that classic “tar and roses” element.
Serving Suggestions:
GREAT with Italian foods, appetizers, pasta with meat sauces, ripe cheeses. This wine absolutely loves food!
2016 Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir, Pence Vineyard
Growing Region Santa Rita Hills, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Barrel Fermented
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $48.00
WineSellar Club Price $41.39
Broad Strokes: 93 Points, Robert Parker, 93 Points Jeb Dunnuck
Bonaccorsi Wine Company produces limited quantities of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah rendered in the style and spirit of a small Burgundy domaine. Grape sources are selected carefully from cool areas of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties in California's South Central Coast. Current grape sources include Sanford & Benedict Melville, and Fiddlestix Vineyards in the newly created Santa Rita Hills appellation, and Bien Nacido and Le Bon Climat Vineyards in Santa Maria Valley. At the winery, grapes and wine are handled carefully and minimally in an effort to capture and enhance the combination of grape variety and site. Bonaccorsi's objective is to produce wines that combine concentration with delicacy.
Appearance:
Dark bottle image and the label doesn’t read as well as I would like it too, but it is still a distinctive, classy heavy bottle package. The wine is also dark, especially for Pinot noir. Dark rose petal coloring with a robe of dark gray.
Nose:
Dark Pinot Noir laden fruit essence shows maturity and aged complexities with notes of red flowers, ripe cherry, tree bark and autumn leaves. Some ripe strawberry, vanilla oak, and Pinot perfume. Solid, classy, aged in bottle Pinot Noir.
Texture:
Medium full in weight and body. You can distinguish the effects of bottle age, as it is softer with the tannins, silkier on the palate, and finishes smooth with a complete, long feel in the mouth. Exquisite!
Flavors:
Rich berry fruit is captured by dark mahogany wood and essence of even darker fruits come forward as it develops. Ripe, mature cherry fruit with spice, strapped leather, dusty, earthy notes, to include a bit of mushroom and truffle. Hot roasted nuts and black tea, forest floor, tobacco leaves, all in a silken glove.
Serving Suggestions:
I am totally amazed and proud that we can bring you a bottle aged Pinot Noir of this quality. I have been drinking some of the older Pinot’s from my coll3ction, and just loving them, With the 2016 Bonaccorsi, you get immediate gratification. Enjoy!
2019 Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot,
Fermentation 16 Months 44% New French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $60.00
WineSellar Club Price $47.69
Broad Strokes: 93 Points, James Suckling, 92 Wine Spectator & 92 Wine Enthusiast
At the heart of Clos du Val is an epic love story. Wine, after all, is a product of passion, and ours is the passion project of John and Henrietta Goelet, together with winemaker Bernard Portet. The two took a chance and challenged a young Bernard Portet–fresh out of winemaking school and steeped in the Bordeaux tradition–to travel the world and find a place where they could grow Cabernet Sauvignon that would rival the world’s best. A two-year global search ensued, ultimately leading Portet to the Napa Valley before it was recognized as a world-class wine region. Together with Bernard, the couple planted their first vineyard and began production of their beloved Bordeaux-style wines. Over the last half of a century, Clos du Val has seen three generations of Goelet family ownership. The winery is now held by John and Henrietta’s six grandchildren, including our Head of Winegrowing and Chairman, Olav Goelet.
Appearance:
I don’t think the classic Clos Du Val label has changed much, if at all, after 50+ years or production. No need really! Lovely back label story, which I always enjoy. The wine is black at the core, bleeding out to crimson edges.
Nose:
I couldn’t pick up any distinct aromatics of the different varietals but did enjoy the deliciousness of the blend. Dark plum, dark cherry, cedar wood and Indian spices are savory as well as sweet.
Texture:
Medium full in weight and body. Luscious palate feel with ripe fruit and well-integrated wood oak and tannins. Skillfully balanced, silky, juicy, polished and drinking very well today.
Flavors:
Black and blue fruits meld with ripe cherries, cassis and notes of polished vanilla oak. True blue deliciousness, showing a hint of tobacco, dairy cream, dark earth and dark clay. Check for toasted walnuts, black pepper.
Serving Suggestions:
Totally drinkable now, it will go another two decades and improve. Put six in your cellar?
NV Champagne Paul Laurent, Cuvée Brut Rosé
Growing Region: Champagne, France
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 70% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Still Pinot Noir
Vinification (From the winery): Hand harvested. Methode Champenoise, aged first in stainless steel tanks, than a minimum of 15 months on the lees
Dosage: 8 g /l
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $44
WineSellar Club Price: $37.79
From the Winery:
Established in 1952 in the heart of the Côteaux du Sézannais, south of Epernay by Gilbert Gruet, and his wife Danielle. They couple believed they could create something special with their small plot of vineyards. They are established as a fantastic source for delicious, high-acid, value Champagne. And yes, these are the same Gruets that also realized their American Dream with the creation of Gruet Winery in New Mexico.
Appearance:
An elegant salmon color
Nose:
Rich and expressive nose…red fruits. Rose petals.
Texture:
Fine bubbles
Flavors:
Red berries…raspberries, strawberries, red currants, hibiscus tea, vanilla,
and a hint of earth. Extremely elegant!
Serving Suggestions:
Pair this lush Champagne with Duck Confit with a Strawberry Rhubarb Sauce!
NV Gruet, Brut Rosé
Growing Region: America
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 100% Pinot Noir
Vinification (From the winery): Methode Champenoise, aged 24 months on the lees
Dosage: 10 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $19
WineSellar Club Price: $17.09
From the Winery:
This is coming from Gilbert & Danielle Gruet from Champagne Paul Laurent.
In 1983 the Gruet family was traveling through the southwestern part of the United States, and while in New Mexico met a group of European winemakers who had successfully planted there. The land was inexpensive and the opportunity golden. Gruet was born in 1984. At 4,300 ft. the vineyards are some of the highest in the United States. Temperatures at night can drop as low as 30 degrees. All manual machinery was shipped from France and the wine was originally produced in a small rented facility in Albuquerque. In 1989 their inaugural sparkling was released!
90 pts, Tasting Panel
Appearance:
Beautiful garnet in hue
Nose:
Sour cherry, brioche & melon
Texture:
Small, light bubbles that tickle the tongue.
Flavors:
Mouthwatering notes of strawberries, raspberries, and cherries.
A hint of spice and cinnamon. Rich, fruity, and finishes with freshness and acidity.
Serving Suggestions:
Gorgeous with feta!
Pair with a Strawberry & Feta Salad finished with a flourish of fresh cracked black pepper.
Super Tender Chicken Breasts
This is a convenient way to cook chicken breasts in one pan, keeping them tender and serving with a delicious sauce.
Serves Four
Ingredients:
-
½ cup flour for dredging
-
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
-
4 skinless boneless chicken breasts, about 6 ounces each
-
2 tablespoons olive oil
-
4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
-
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
-
2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
-
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
-
3 tablespoons lemon juice
-
¼ cup chicken broth, fresh or canned
-
¼ cup white wine
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2 tablespoons butter
Method:
- Season flour with salt and pepper, and cover chicken all over. Remove the excess flour.
- Heat the oil in a heavy skillet large enough to hold the chicken pieces in one layer.
- Add chicken and cook, uncovered, over high heat for 3 minutes until lightly browned.
- Flip the chicken and cook for 2 minutes more.
- Carefully remove the chicken from the skillet, leaving the oil and juices.
- Place chicken in roasting pan and set small oven to 175 degrees to serve later.
- To the still hot pan, add cooking wine and the broth. Reduce by 1/3.
- Turn pan to medium low heat, and add thyme, shallots and garlic, and cook slowly.
- Add the lemon rind, the lemon juice.
- Add the butter and warm until sauce melds together.
- Plate chicken and pour sauce over each piece.