Wine Club Newsletter - March 2019
Sicily, Italy, Best Wine Destinations (2017 Wine Enthusiast Magazine)
As you may be aware, Lori and I are guiding our wine tour through Sicily this year. I thought it might be fun to share some information about the wine country there. If you would like to inquire about going with us, we have a couple spaces left at time of printing this. Please email Lori at Lparker@winesellar.com
Sunny Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, sits just off the tip of the boot-shaped peninsula of Italy. Dotted with ancient Greek temples and Norman cathedrals built by former invaders, the island has a rich history and multifaceted cultural legacy.
It also boasts miles of pristine beaches, breathtaking scenery and the highest active volcano in Europe, Mount Etna.
On top of those wonders, Sicily makes fantastic wines from native and international grapes. It produces everything from full-bodied reds to vibrant, mineral-driven whites. Pair them with the fantastic local cuisine, and you understand why this is a wine-lover’s paradise.
Sicily’s pristine coastline offers world-class beaches and resorts that provide plenty of outdoor fun. The island also has a number of ancient monuments and archaeological sites. In Agrigento, the Valley of the Temples is a tour of some of the world’s best-preserved Greek temples. It dates to the 5th century BC and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Many producers make sunny renditions from international grapes like Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, but most firms focus on the island’s native grapes. From the hot plains of Marsala, try Grillo, a crisp and savory white, as well as Marsala, a fortified dessert wine that’s making a comeback. Smooth and juicy Nero d’Avola, at its best in the Noto area, is the island’s flagship red.
From the Vittoria area, don’t miss the polished Cerasuolo di Vittoria or bright Frappato, the perfect summer red. Elegant, mineral-driven reds and whites from the slopes of Mount Etna are among the most exciting wines coming out of Italy.
Celebrated wine producer Alessio Planeta suggests a visit to the northern zone of Mount Etna, where you can walk in the woods and through vineyards. “Of all the stunning views on Etna, a hike up to the small, extinguished volcano of Mojo offers one of the most beautiful landscapes on the big volcano. Heading up to almost 3,300 feet, you’ll find the grands crus, ending at the lava flow from 1991, showing all the great energy of the mountain.”
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2017 Grillo, Cantine Paolini
Growing Region: Sicily, Italy (DOC Sicilia)
Varietal Composition: 100% Grillo
Fermentation: Inert Vessels
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Price: $16.19
Broad Strokes:
Grillo (also known as Riddu) is a white wine grape varietal with origins in Sicily, Italy, where it is used to produce outstanding Marsala wines. Grillo has such a long history, records show it being used in popular Roman wines: a favorite of Julius Caesar.
The grape is typically grown on bush-trained vines, which can withstand high temperatures and dry conditions, which Sicily has in abundant quantities. When ripe, the grape is capable of reaching fairly high sugar levels, which is a major benefit being the primary grape used in the production of Marsala. Grillo can also produce full-bodied wines, though often blended with the more aromatic Inzolia grape and most recently, Chardonnay.
Appearance:
I really like the artwork on the clean and pure artwork style on label, depicting a sunset on the horizon. The wine is clear, and reflects light well from the light white corn hue coloring.
Nose:
Lovely fragrances of white flowers, peach, pear, and skin of pear. You may also recognize some mineral and salinity. I even detected some ash, which I really liked. While the nose is delicate, it does reveal a lot of different nuances.
Texture:
The wine is lean and crisp, with well developed acids balancing the fruit extremely well. The mid-palate opens up really nicely, again, the acid keeping the fruit in check. The finish is much like the initial impression, lean, clean and fresh.
Flavors:
Essence of Meyer lemon, Cling Peaches, and Mandarin Orange bring a pleasant, initial mild fruit impression. We got lightly toasted almonds, pine nuts, pear, Washington Delicious apple, and a note of dried apricot.
Serving Suggestions:
Such a unique wine! It’s a very fun wine to surprise your wine buddies with, would be tough guessing what it is in a blind tasting format. Recommended foods are firm cheese, white fish, light pasta dishes, seafood and shellfish.
2016 Poseidon, Pinot Noir, Estate
Growing Region: Carneros, Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 25% for 9 Months in New Hungarian Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.3%
Suggested Retail: $32.00
WineSellar Club Price: $26.99
Broad Strokes: 92 Points Wine Enthusiast, 640 cases produced
From the Winery: Poseidon Vineyard, located at the confluence of Carneros Creek and the Napa River, was planted in 1973 by the Molnar Family to the Burgundian varietals: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The maritime environment of the Carneros grape-growing season delivers cool, foggy mornings followed by warm days that slowly nurture ripening.
We exclusively use barrels made from tight-grained Tokaj oak by Kádár Hungary, the cooperage we have owned for three decades. This is one of a handful of places in the world where Quercus Petraea, an oak species highly prized for its enticing aromas and subtle oak influence, is grown.
Appearance:
Nice looking bottle of wine, overall. My thoughts on improvements would be to make the fonts on the front label (“Estate Grown“) much larger, as well as the very cool story on the back label: hard to read. The wine is gorgeous, dark for a Pinot, yielding to crimson at the edge of the glass.
Nose:
Rich, Pinot Noir fruit envelopes the nose assuredly, and for me, with great delight. I can’t believe a Pinot at this price offers up so much stuffing and complexity. Rose petals, dark cherry, suede, fabulous vanilla wood-notes, black tea . . . it’s got it all!
Texture:
The wine is silky and velvety in texture, even with its formidable, assertive fruit density. Once in the mouth, it coats everywhere, and the feeling is every space in your mouth is getting some sensory stimulation.
Flavors:
Red and black fruits abound, cherry, berry, and ripe plum. The lovely vanilla wood notes transfer perfectly to the palate, hint of black pepper, Pinot Noir fruit essence all the way through this lovely speci-wine.
Serving Suggestions:
There are not too many Pinot Noirs this brilliant for under $30. It will be my go-to Pinot Noir as long as we have a supply of it here. It will keep a few years in the bottle, so I may age a few to check that out.
2017 Joey Tensley, Cabernet Sauvignon, “Fundamental”
Growing Region: Central Coast, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: French Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Price: $16.19
Broad Strokes:
Fundamental Wines is a project that winemaker Joey Tensley and wife, Jennifer Tensley, have been talking about for some time. As owners of the highly-rated Tensley Wines label, the couple has spent the last 15 years traveling to wine regions around the world. During their travels they were consistently impressed not only by the higher end wines they tasted but also by the many quality value wines they came across.
They decided to make a great quality value wine of their own. One that would be priced to enjoy every day. One that would sustain the quality and style the original Tensley brand has maintained for twenty years. One they would be proud to put their name on.
Appearance:
I like the packaging, it speaks well for the project, and presents it in a clear, classy fashion. Nice sized bottle as well. The wine is black at the core, bleeding out to a bright garnet on the edges. Very viscous!
Nose:
Very fine, true Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, minus the green bell pepper. Solid and very present, the aromatics start with a whiff of Dr. Pepper, rich black cherry, blackberry and blueberry. Underlying this is roasted meats, smoke, and a nice touch of vanilla oak. Toasted almonds, roasted mixed nuts . . . (my staff sometimes consider me one of those).
Texture:
Unctuous, rich, creamy, and enveloping, the wine goes through the mouth with a glorious chocolate milk kind of feel. Adult chocolate milk, disguised as wine. I love it!
Flavor:
Rich black cherry, red raspberry (preserves) and wild berry compote grab your taste buds first thing, followed by vanilla and wood nuances. There are some spice notes as well, nutmeg and cardamom, and again, the roasted meats, and bacon. This is an interesting flavor for a Cabernet, as usually bacon and meats are specific to the Syrah varietal, which happens to be what Joey Tensley is famous for.
Some Additional Thoughts:
All this for under $18.00?!!! What a deal, I must say. It drinks like 2-3 times the asking price. I am sure will not easily tire of this wine!
2015 “The Sorceress”, Sleight of Hand Cellars
Growing Region: Snipes Mtn. AVA and Walla Walla AVA
Varietal Composition: 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah
Fermentation: 100% French Oak, 20% New
Alcohol Content: 14.3%
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes: 92.5 Points Cellar Tracker, 19+/20 Points Review of Washington Wines
Sleight of Hand Cellars is a partnership between Jerry & Sandy Solomon and winemaker Trey Busch. The winery is named after a Pearl Jam song, and Trey says that if he were not making wine he would be singing in a tribute band. The first release from the winery was just over ten years ago, and they consistently achieve high ratings and solid reviews for all their wines. I have been great friends of the Solomon family for decades, and am very proud of the accomplishments they have made in the world of wine.
Appearance:
Nice, heavy bottle and excellent general appearance overall. A whimsical, fun, magical label, which typically has a family member or someone famous depicted on the label. They haven’t used me, yet, but perhaps one day . . . The wine is dark red in color, black at the core, a beauty! Super-viscous, dripping slowly down the glass.
Nose:
The Rhone Valley of France meets the fresh, clean ripeness of Washington grapes. Old World meets new, if you will, and happily married. The brilliant red fruits (plum, raspberry) are laced with sweet vanilla oak, and earthy elements, including dark soil, spices of Morocco, black olives, anise, fresh herbs, and a distant hint of hot stones or tar.
Texture:
Seamless, solid and dense. The winery is all about making balanced wines that are not overblown, rather appropriate for your dinner table. The balance and elegance are awesome. Velvet, and a lovely little nip of mineral on the finish.
Flavor:
Beautiful, full and clean fruit of dark cherry, raspberry, blackberry, black currant, sweet vanilla oak is the immediate flavor profile, followed by the true characteristics of the varietals . . . tobacco, roasted meat (beef jerky) dark plum, black olives, light herbs, and dark earth. A very sophisticated adult beverage, to be sure!
Some Additional Thoughts:
Have no doubt this wine will keep in the cellar for over a decade, and will improve over that period of time. It’s fabulous drinking now though!
2013 Barolo, Bel Colle, “Simposio”
Growing Region: Verduno, Piedmont, Italy
Varietal Composition: 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation: Two Years in French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $60.00
WineSellar Club Price: $53.99
Broad Strokes: 93 Points Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery: Founded in the late 1970’s, brothers Franco Pontiglione, Carlo Pontiglione and Giuseppe Priola, established the Bel Colle winery; it was a dream come true. Diligence and dedication have borne results, winning many accolades and awards in national and international magazines including Gambero Rosso, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast to name a few.
In August 2015, Bel Colle was bought by Luca Bosio, whose family has been growing grapes and making wines in the nearby Asti section of Piedmont since the mid-1960’s. As a trained winemaker, Luca was thrilled to be able to make wines from a different part of the region where there is an unusual microclimate and geology that is especially congenial to the growing of Nebbiolo.
Appearance:
Very fine, classically Italian label, even though somewhat understated. Always love the embossing on the bottle. The wine is medium light in color depth, with hue of red apple skin going to clear on the edges. The wine is viscous, 14.5% alcohol, leaving big-time tears on the bowl. Looks like an Italian Burgundy!
Nose:
The fragrance on this wine is subtle and hypnotic. Black truffle, white cherry fruit, notes of black pepper, white pepper, and a touch of balsamic . . . not the intensity of balsamic, the essence of. Dark soil, mushrooms, and it reminds me of the wafts you may get walking into a winery.
Texture:
Medium to medium-light in weight and body. Smooth, yet has expansive fruit. Angular at first, then takes on a soft silky, velvety feel in the middle. The finish is clean and balanced. The fruit and polish of this product comes shining through.
Flavors:
From the nose, light cherry, mushroom, truffle, black and white pepper, dark soil, are wholly present in the palate. You can add black tea, cranberry, chestnut, and strapped cedar. Again, very Pinot Noir like, very Burgundian in weight, feel, and length.
Serving Suggestions:
Like it’s Brother Barbaresco, it is a superb food wine. I would pair it with any and all classic Italian dishes. Should go 10 more years.
2012 Barbaresco, Bel Colle
Growing Region: Verduno, Piedmont, Italy
Varietal Composition: 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation: Two Years in French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Price: $44.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Founded in the late 1970’s, brothers Franco Pontiglione, Carlo Pontiglione and Giuseppe Priola, established the Bel Colle winery; it was a dream come true. Diligence and dedication have borne results, winning many accolades and awards in national and international magazines including Gambero Rosso, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast to name a few.
In August 2015, Bel Colle was bought by Luca Bosio, whose family has been growing grapes and making wines in the nearby Asti section of Piedmont since the mid-1960’s. As a trained winemaker, Luca was thrilled to be able to make wines from a different part of the region where there is an unusual microclimate and geology that is especially congenial to the growing of Nebbiolo.
Appearance:
Very fine, classically Italian label, even though somewhat understated. Always love the embossing on the bottle. The winery accurately describes the appearance as ruby red in color, with some orange hues. The wine is viscous, 14.5% alcohol, leaving big-time tears on the bowl. Very inviting looks!
Nose:
Sweet wood and New World aromatics wrap around Old-World styled fruit: dried fruit to be more precise, like prunes, dates, and of course, grapes. Mahogany, spices, pomegranate, cooked brown rice, asphalt, and then back to cherry fruit.
Texture:
Fabulous feel in the mouth. It is medium in weight, long and textural in the palate. You can sense the density and fruit extraction, and feel the sharp edge of the acid. It is distinguished, complete, with some youthful acid still living on the finish.
Flavors:
Black cherry juice, vanilla, walnut, nutmeg, cardamom, pomegranate, and red raspberry fruit. Those fruits have both a fresh and then again slightly balsamic character. Black tea, eucalyptus, with an exciting finish, one that is strong on the black cherry.
Serving Suggestions:
Superb food wine, I would pair it with any and all classic Italian dishes. Should go 10 more years.
Sicilian Pizza Dough
To continue with the theme of Sicily, here is a fun recipe for making Sicilian Pizza dough. Classic toppings are sausages, meatballs, bell peppers, black olives.
Makes two pizza pies.
Ingredients:
- 1 1⁄2 cups water (105 F to 115 F)
- 2 (1/4 ounce) packages dry yeast
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 4 teaspoons olive oil
- 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
- 4 cups flour(approximate)
Method:
- Coat a large bowl with teaspoon of olive oil and set aside.
- Stir first three ingredients together and let sit for 10 minutes, until nice and foamy.
- Place three cups of flour in large bowl and mix in salt.
- Place one cup of flour on work surface.
- Mix pour olive oil into yeast mixture and then pour yeast mixture into bowl with flour.
- Stir until as combined as possible.
- Turn out onto floured surface.
- With well-floured hands, knead dough to work in the cup of flour on the board.
- Continue kneading until nice, smooth dough-ball is formed.
- Place in oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then kitchen towel and let sit for 30 minutes.
- Dough should double (at least).
- Use half the dough to form a pizza crust, crimp the edges, brush edges with olive oil and top as desired.
- Bake on pizza stone or ceramic tile at 425 F for approximately 15 minutes.
Genius Kitchen