Wine Club Newsletter - November 2019
Wine tasting can work the brain more than math, according to neuroscience
If you're a wine connoisseur or enjoy a good Cabernet, you likely don't need another reason to put "wine tasting" on a list of activities you like. But science has one for you: it can stimulate the brain more than a lot of other activities (from listening to a Beethoven concerto to solving a complex trigonometry problem).
Don't go thinking that's a license to start guzzling glass after glass of Rosé with reckless abandon, however. A key part of the activity is the "concentrated discrimination of the taste of wine," explains Gordon M. Shepherd, PhD, DPhil, Professor of Neuroscience at Yale School of Medicine, who wrote the book on this topic, "Neuroenology".
That means the brain ramps it up when you're actively engaged in tasting your libation, but probably not so much if you're thoughtlessly gulping. (And that’s whether you're a sommelier or a novice sipper.)
"It involves multiple sensory and motor systems, as well as central conceptual systems for cognition and memory — and systems for emotion and pleasure," Shepherd says. So the brain becomes more engaged in wine tasting than it would, for example, be when it comes to solving a math problem or listening to music, which involve fewer body systems working together.
A key point (and yes, a somewhat abstract one to wrap your head around) is that the flavors we perceive aren't in the food or drink itself, but rather something that the brain creates.
The brain creates all of what we see and feel
The brain actually creates all of our sensory world, Shepherd says. Color, for example, does not exist in the objects we see. Whether something appears purple or orange to us is instead a result of the way light hits that object and those different wave lengths of light stimulate the circuits of our brain (which we've identified as different colors). Similarly, we feel pain because of the neural processing that happens in the brain in response to a stimulus that something is wrong with another part of our body (such as a brick falling on our foot)."In the same way, molecules in food and wine have no flavor in themselves," he says. "Our sensory systems create our perceptions of flavor."
But what's different about taste compared to our other senses is that so many body systems and sensory processes are involved, as Shepherd explains in a 2015 review article published in the journal Flavour.
First the senses: Our sense of smell (both the odor stimuli we get from sniffing in as well as from breathing out) are involved. And our sense of sight is involved, perceiving what the food or drink looks like. And there's the sense of touch (or the texture of food) we feel in our mouth and our tongue. Additionally, different muscle and motor systems are involved in the physical process of tasting (the tongue, jaw, cheek, neck and more).
Then there are the brain systems involved (the central behavioral systems): Memory systems are engaged in recognizing flavors you've experienced before. You may or may not have an emotional response to a wine. Hormonal systems may be triggered to deliver a dopamine (pleasure) response. The brain regions that control motivation are activated to determine whether or not you'll keep drinking. The pleasure network in the brain makes the final decision on our rating of the wine. And the part of the brain that controls language and communication is activated if you're telling others about what you just tasted.
Technically wine is a food. So does the same thing happen in your brain when you're tasting, let's say, a piece of chocolate cake or a type of olive oil with "concentrated discrimination"?
In principle, yes, Shepherd says. But wine is composed almost wholly from molecules that give it its distinct taste, versus other foods composed of molecules that provide nutrition, too. So, according to Shepherd: "Wine drinkers therefore can concentrate exclusively on perceptual details about flavor."
Taste depends on a lot more than the chemical composition of wine
Charles Spence, PhD, Professor of Experimental Psychology at University of Oxford, studies how the human mind processes information from the environment around us. Work from his lab suggests that there are a lot of factors besides the chemical composition of a wine affect what we taste, and therefore the brain is busy when we're (thoughtfully) tasting it.
"A lot of pleasure resides in the expectations we have that can come from the weight of the bottle, the type of closure and the music playing in the background," he says. "All these other factors [can] typically elevate the experience."
A 2017 study from him and his colleagues suggest that even for wine writers, whether the taster hears a cork being popped or a screw-cap bottle being unscrewed can affect their ratings — likely because each sound sets off different expectations, which do affect taste, according to the paper. The study included 140 individuals (all with varying levels of wine expertise), and is still a preliminary investigation of the question.
Other data found how heavy a wine bottle is and the music a taster is listening tocan change the words we use to describe it.
Together the research says it's the total multisensory experience that explains why tasting wine engages so much of the brain, Spence says — "whereas a concert only engages one sense: hearing."
If you're tasting a wine and trying to distinguish different notes and distinctive aromas, he adds — "and trying to fit that with prior wines we have tasted, there is a lot going on."
The caveat, however, is there's a danger in suggesting that all flavor happens in the brain, as the chemical composition of what you're drinking must be relevant, too. (No matter what music is playing and how fancy a bottle a liquid comes out of, you likely won't mix up the tastes of wine and orange juice, for example.)
"But the perception and enjoyment we experience is clearly a construct of the mind that engages the senses and links to our memories," Spence explains.
Does that mean that wine tasting is good for my brain?
This is where the discussion gets tricky. Wine tasting as an activity may engage the brain more than other activities. (And that activation is how we learn things and sharpen our cognitive skills, Shepherd says.)
But that doesn't mean that the alcohol you're putting in your body isn't causing other problems. A large, global analysis published in August of more than 700 studies that looked at alcohol consumption and disease burden found that it actually may be that any amount of drinking heightens disease risk.
"It's hard to argue against the neuroscience [Shepherd] presents," says David A. Merrill, MD, PhD, a clinical research scientist and psychiatrist at the Semel Institute for Neuroscience and Human Behavior at University of California-Los Angeles. "It is entertaining to think of how many neural systems are activated from a process that looks so simple on the surface."
Sarah Digiulio, CBS News
2015 Le Petit Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Leognan
Growing Region: Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France
Varietal Composition: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
Fermentation: 14 Months in French Oak
Alcohol Content: 13.5%
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
This is the second label wine from the famed Bordeaux producer, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte. Le Petit Haut Lafitte is vinified in the same method as their top product, and so provides us with not just an excellent wine, but a sensational value for Bordeaux.
93 Points James Suckling
92 Points Vinous
90 Points Wine Spectator
90 Points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Appearance:
The label is very similar to the Smith Haut Lafitte in color and font, and as you would expect, an etching of the Chateau on the label. The wine looks dense, with a purple and red colors, clinging hard to the rim of the glass.
Nose:
Assertive and quite present are blackberry, dried cherry, currants, kirsch liqueur, graphite, pencil shavings and a touch of cedar/vanilla to round it out. Some smoke and notes of earth, with gravel and hot stones, tobacco leaf, and a hint of fresh herbs, perhaps even eucalyptus. Very active, exciting aromatics!
Texture:
Medium full in weight and body. The approach in mouth is firm and straightforward; then it opens up broadly following a beautiful and long curve. The tannic concentration is plush and well-integrated. The mouth is dense with a good volume and the texture is well defined. The long and balanced finish seems to linger for quite some time. Beautifully structured.
Flavors:
Cassis, blueberry, black cherry, red currants are laced with spices, particularly clove. Nice dollop of vanilla oak, tobacco, leather, herbs, the hot stones, graphite, flint, pencil shavings, smoke and the hits just keep coming! This beauty has power and grace, it is both inky deep yet light on its feet.
Serving Suggestions:
Will keep 5-12 years, and I suggest putting 6-12 bottles in your cellar and try one each year.
2016 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Ronciere Cuvee Tradition
Growing Region: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition: 17 Months in Cement Vats
Alcohol Content: 15%
Suggested Retail: $48.00
WineSellar Club Price: $39.59
Broad Strokes:
Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s monumental 2015 vintage was a tough act to follow, but 2016 was up to the challenge. In fact, in many cases the wines from this uniformly outstanding warm year actually outclass – or at least outmuscle – their older siblings.
If exuberant ripe fruit, harmonious tannins and an overall impression of generosity and lushness are what you’re after in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, then 2016 has plenty to offer. But the best wines also display real energy, making this a standout vintage. All the work in the vineyards is done using only biodynamic farming techniques. In 2013, Domaine de la Ronciere was certified as a biodymamic producer by the Agriculture Biologique.
Appearance:
Love the embossing on the bottle, the coat of arms, etching of The Domaine on the label and the ornamental capsule. The wine itself has a ruby garnet hue, and is neither very dark or very light, just appropriate.
Nose:
Classic nose of Chateauneuf-du-Pape: red berries, Provencal herbs, leather, black pepper, red meat, iodine, mineral, stones, and garrique (shrub land). There is also some earth notes of soil and anise, and floral scents.
Texture:
The wine feels like it is medium in weight and body. The palate entry is relatively smooth for such a youngster, giving you fresh fruit to enjoy, however having a lace of fresh tannic and youthful acid. It is expansive in the mouth, and the finish has excellent length and is quite enjoyable.
Flavors:
That garrique is definitely here, along with red fruits of raspberry and cherry. Black cherry, black pepper, spices, herbs (Provencal herbs, plus thyme and anise) lavender, and kirsch. It is rich and round, spicy, earthy, interesting, and frankly, a wonderful wine to allow a revisit to the Rhone Valley, in a glass.
Serving Suggestions:
Will keep 10-15 years, and I suggest putting 6-12 bottles in your cellar.
2017 Vinsobres, “Les Cornuds”, Famille Perrin
Growing Region: Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition: 50-50 Grenache & Syrah
Fermentation: One Year Oak, Stainless, Partial Malolactic
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $23.99
WineSellar Club Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes: 92-94 Points Jeb Dunnuck, 90-92 Points The Wine Advocate
From The Estate: We really like the terroir of Vinsobres, a beautiful village located near Vaison la Romaine. The vineyard is at an altitude of 300 meters (984 feet) and is situated for the most part on terraces. Vinsobres is particularly suitable for Syrah because it preserves the finesse which is often lost in more southern climates. It develops notes of violet, smoked meat, and blackberries. Grenache is also suited to this terroir, full-bodied and not heavy. This 2017 vintage will be remembered as the year of all records: the driest year in 30 years, non-interventionist vineyard work, optimal harvest conditions, a very small yield due to climatic hazards, and wines with very rich potential. The cellar work was very technical and precise and the first tastings reveal wines with a great potential, very well-balanced, and aromatic that should be among some of our best vintages.
Appearance:
The familiar label from one of the Rhone Valleys most respected and elite produces of wine, Chateau de Beaucastel, with its Chateau etched on the label, always gives me great confidence with what’s inside. The wine is dark purple/black, and nearly opaque at the core.
Nose:
The nose has the scent of violet blossoms, blackberries, spices, herbs and sweet dark cherries with subtle earthiness, vanilla and smoked meat. Slightly rustic, as many Rhone red wines will be, the aromas kept opening for hours after corks first pop.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in weight and body. At first it was a bit angular, but that changed after an hour or so. Well balanced and complex, there is sweet fruit on top of a mineral, earthy nuance that has a slight bitter finish. That’s a good thing!
Flavors:
Mostly black fruits, with black olive, white pepper, cherry, mineral (limestone), dried herbs, spices, red meat, chocolate and that hint of rustic I like soooo much!
Serving Suggestions:
This wine will develop nicely with 3-5 years of bottle age. Drinking it now is not a problem, and I would suggest lamb, leg of lamb, rack of lamb, shoulder of lamb, loin of lamb . . . got it?
2014 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Rene Leclerc
Growing Region: Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: One Year Oak, 20-25% New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Price: $29.69
Broad Strokes:
From The Estate: Rene and Francois Leclerc are two of the most renowned and respected winemakers in the Burgundian wine mecca of Gevrey-Chambertin, and indeed throughout the entire Côte-d’Or. They are an example of the quintessential father/son winemaking team in Burgundy; passionate, devoted and intent on passing essential knowledge of their unique terroir through the generations. For despite the fact that son Francois has slowly taken more and more responsibility off his father, the ethos of Domaine Rene Leclerc remains unchanged: traditional, terroir-driven reds of great power and elegance that speak of their origins. Both father and son maintain that the magic and vitality of Pinot Noir must take precedence above all else, and so the vinification and aging process is as delicate as possible, to keep the purity of the grape’s fruit at the forefront.
Appearance:
This familiar label and sturdy bottle occupy a number of bins in my personal collection, so it is with pride and confidence I can offer this wine to our Two-Rouge club members. The wine has a cranberry hue, with colorings of black tea. You can see through the center.
Nose:
Strawberry and raspberry fruits on the nose, along with black pepper, anise, cinnamon, nutmeg, cola notes and Indian spices as well. Super lovely, super delicate, sophisticated fragrances take you to the highly heralded land of Burgundy.
Texture:
Medium to medium light in weight and body. The wine picks up weight and complexity as the hour goes by, becoming silky, elegant, smooth, creamy, sweet and lovely.
Flavors:
Cherry, strawberry, earthen soil, truffle, mushrooms, vanilla, black pepper, mineral, kirsch, cola, raspberry, opening up as time goes on. Totally love it.
Serving Suggestions:
OK, this is a 2014 vintage, and has evolved very nicely, with even still more years to go. I want you to take care in your assessment of this wine, some may think it too light, but the enjoyment is in the delicate complexities this wine has to offer. I loved it more the longer I engaged with it. It provides a fabulous textural sensation with lovely flavor complexities.
2018 Reuilly, “Les Rouesses”, Domaine Rouesses
Growing Region: Loire Valley, France
Varietal Composition: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation: Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 13%
Suggested Retail: $24.99
WineSellar Club Price: $20.69
Broad Strokes:
Reuilly is experiencing a renaissance, moving far beyond its former status as the “poor man’s Sancerre.” The renowned Loire Valley appellation an hour east—but the white wines that come from this small AOC can be every bit as beautiful and pleasurable to drink. In many ways, the two appellations are not that different. To start, the white wines are both 100% Sauvignon Blanc. And, like in Chablis, both appellations have a substantial amount of Kimmeridgian limestone or marl in their soils. Despite its under-the-radar status, Reuilly is also endowed with a notable amount of ancient marine deposits. In global terms the climate is still cool here, however, so the grapes require extended hang-time in order to reach full ripeness. This slower ripening leads to the development of greater complexity in the wines.
Appearance:
We are used to seeing the slope shouldered bottle hold pretty much anything but Sauvignon Blanc, but here it is! The label is classic, with the etching of the Domaine and the appellation spelled out clearly. The wine is pale straw in color, with a slightly yellow tint to it. Clean and sparkling!
Nose:
Beautifully scented wine, with note of white flower, mineral and lemon. I also recognized the limestone elements from the soil, honey, ripe melon, apricot, orange, and a nice touch of herbs. Nose opens the warmer the wine gets.
Texture:
Upon first opening, the wine has a touch of youthful zeal, and quickly calms after warming and breathing a bit. It then takes on a surprising creaminess, laced by a lovely citric acidity. The finish is long and clean, complete.
Flavors:
The wine has a great deal of complexity that keeps you thinking about it as you sip. The slate, mineral, oyster shells, melon, white tree fruit, orange and lemon, apricot, and even notes of butter. Lovely!
Serving Suggestions:
Great with all kinds of foods, and as an aperitif. This will keep your friends guessing!
2016 Anjou Rouge, Chateau de Fresne
Growing Region: Loire Valley, France
Varietal Composition: Cabernet Franc & Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: Fudor
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $21.99
WineSellar Club Price: $18.89
Broad Strokes:
From The Estate: The estate. Located in the heart of Anjou, overlooking the Layon, the property belonging to the Robin-Bretault family, has an 80-hectare vineyard. Château du Fresne, built in 1436, is the historical icon of the estate. The production is characterised by the diversity of its range and the consistency of its quality. Soils. Located mainly in the commune of Faye d'Anjou, the Château du Fresne vines have their roots in soils that are mainly schist-sandstone, composed of slate stone or quartz. These are shallow soils that provide typical wines. On the left bank of the Layon, on the Champ d'Anjou side, the terrain is more filtered, made of sand and gravel
Appearance:
I like the black Dart Vader look, and of course the etching of the family arms on the bottle. Very cool., however for the uneducated, the label does not provide a simple, accurate description of what’s inside. Solid red hues, the wine is brilliant, and you can see through to the core.
Nose:
Delicate fragrances pop up from the glass. Black and red fruits, strawberry, herbs, black pepper and some purple flower notes. A touch of anise also, delicate yet quite enjoyable.
Texture:
Medium to medium light in weight and body. It feels smooth and light at first take, but the wine fleshes out in your palate and after you swallow it. It has a kind of sneaky silkiness to the texture that I really enjoyed. Not tannic, but the volume of it and the fresh way it feels in the mouth is lovely.
Flavors:
Red and black fruits as the nose suggests and offers are front and center. This is not the knock your socks off style of wine that we find in many of our California wineries. Instead, it has a milder presence, nuanced with floral and fruit flavors while providing a unique, exceptional feel in the palate.
Serving Suggestions:
As with our companion white wine this month, the Reuilly, this will be great with all kinds of foods, and as an aperitif. This will keep your friends guessing!
Ginger Marinated Pork Roast
This is a nice recipe I found and tried from JenReviews.com
I love marinades, and this one provided a distinctly Asian influence, and will pair well with both red (Pinot Noirs, Rhones) and white wines (Alsace, Riesling, Viognier).
Ingredients
- 1 Star Anise
- 4-5 Peppercorns
- ½ Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
- 1 Onion
- 3-4 Cloves Garlic
- 2 Tablespoons Sesame Oil
- 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
- 1 Tablespoon Rice Vinegar
- 1 Tablespoon Grated Ginger
- 2 Pounds Pork Roast
Method
- Grind the star anise, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, and fennel seeds with a pestle and mortar. Filter the fine ground pieces through a sieve and put them in a bowl. Discard the leftover chunks.
- Peel and cut the onion into thin wedges and spoon the garlic paste into a bowl.
- Add the ground spices to the garlic paste. Add the sesame oil, soy sauce, and vinegar to the bowl and stir to combine. Grate the ginger and add it to the mixture. Grate the pear down to the core and add it to the marinade and mix well.
- Place the pork roast in a large re-sealable bag and add in the cut onions and marinade. Seal the bag and massage the marinade into the onions and pork until it’s completely covered. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.
- Remove the roast from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before cooking and preheat the oven to 350 F.
- Transfer the pork, onions and marinade from the bag to a roasting pan. Cover it with aluminum foil and place it in the oven to roast for 40 minutes. Halfway through cooking, remove the aluminum foil and spread the juices and seasoning on top of the roast and recover.
- Remove the aluminum foil and turn up the heat to 400 and cook the roast another 10 minutes so that the outside can brown. The roast is done it reaches an internal temp of at least 145F.
- Take the roast out of the oven and allow it to rest 5-10 minutes with aluminum foil tented over it to keep it warm before serving.