Wine Club Newsletter - January 2020
Despite fires, California wine is doing just fine - for now
The wineries of Sonoma County are largely unharmed despite fires that raged through the area this fall
HEALDSBURG, Calif. -- If you're worried that wildfires might have created shortages of Northern California's 2019 cabernet sauvignon, or even just imparted it with an undesirable smoky flavor, you can relax. The wine is just fine. For now.
Despite a late October blaze that raged through one of the world's best-known wine-growing regions, forcing evacuations in two mid-sized towns, wine production in Sonoma County escaped largely unscathed.
Limerick Lane Wines, for instance, avoided serious damage despite flames that licked at two sides of its property in the Russian River Valley just south of Healdsburg. Limerick's grapes were already harvested, crushed and stored in tanks and barrels. The winery's sealed cellar prevented smoke damage to its inventory, said owner Jake Bilbro, although its tasting room now has an acrid smell.
"I have to thank the people who planted our vineyards and built our house 100 years ago," Bilbro said. "Our buildings are all surrounded by vineyards, and vineyards are excellent fire breaks."
Overall, vintners estimate that the region lost only about five percent of its harvest to fire and smoke — not a perfect outcome, but better than in 2017, when wildfire struck with only about 90% of the harvest in. The remaining grapes weren't all lost, but that year's vintages were rumored to have a "smoky" taste, and winemakers were taking no chances this year.
Many in Sonoma, a sprawling county larger than Rhode Island located about an hour north of San Francisco, say they're hoping that fires don't become the new normal. But with the smell of smoke lingers in the air and the charred hills serving as a reminder, they're also making plans in case they do.
Fire season isn't over yet, of course, and the now largely contained Kincade fire did incinerate the historic Soda Rock Winery, although most vineyards sustained no damage and lost no production. But the region has suffered a precipitous drop in fall tourism, which could undermine the economic health of its wineries and hospitality industry alike.
Bret Munselle lost about half of the young vines he had planted just two months before when a fire raged through the upper part of his ranch at Munselle Vineyards in Alexander Valley, between Healdsburg and Geyserville. The drainage below the plants was also damaged, and will probably cost $150,000 to repair, he said.
It could have been much worse if mature vineyards were more appealing to fire. Water-rich vines and grapes planted in plowed rows don't offer them much fuel, he said. "My family has lived on this property for 130 years," Munselle said. "We've never seen it burn from the tops of mountains to the valley floor."
Climate change is making summers warmer and drying out more forest brush, creating greater fuel reservoirs for wildfire, said Noah Diffenbaugh, a professor of earth system science at Stanford. The late-autumn rains that typically end fire season have started later in recent years, he said, although it's not yet clear whether that's also climate-related.
Oddly enough, those same effects can help protect the grape crop by accelerating ripening of the fruit and reducing the chance that unexpectedly early rains might damage it. Wine researchers have suggested vineyards might need to adjust harvest times, evaluate what they plant, even possibly move to cooler areas over time.
Few grape growers are dramatically changing their practices yet. No one is talking about closing up shop or moving elsewhere. But winemakers are tinkering anyway — and everyone is buying backup generators.
Clay Mauritson of Mauritson Wines said he and his family are experimenting with different pruning methods to increase shade on the plants, although they don't see any need to shift to new growing areas. "We don't want to be too dramatic or reactionary," he said. "We are going to take baby steps to make sure we're prepared for what comes down."
Tourism, which is usually booming amid the fall colors and mild temperatures, has taken a serious blow. Evacuations of nearby Healdsburg and Windsor, along with planned blackouts by the region's utility, PG&E — plus, the widespread misperception that the vineyards themselves burned — led to a rash of cancellations for hotel, restaurant and tasting-room reservations.
Joe Bartolomei, owner of the upscale boutique hotel Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, said he would normally be sold out this time of year. But on Nov. 1, his inn had only two of 25 rooms filled. He's trying to get the message out that the county businesses are intact and open for visitors.
But, he said, "it's going to be a slow, gradual education."
Visitor numbers had just started recovering from a similar drop-off following the 2017 fires, said Sonoma County Tourism president Clauda Vecchio.
So the tourism bureau now plans to promote wine country as a spring destination rather than fall, and is devoting the bulk of its $750,000 advertising budget to that end. That means convincing visitors to come celebrate "bud break," when green shoots make the vineyards colorful, rather than the harvest itself.
But to boost tourism numbers to a level she'd like, Vecchio says she would really need roughly ten times the budget.
The good news, Diffenbaugh said, is that people have a long history of figuring out how to thrive in all kinds of environments. "Humans are really good at dealing with a variety of different conditions," he said. "What climate change is doing is changing which conditions occur where."
By RACHEL LERMAN AP Business Writer
2013 Howell at the Moon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Knoll Vineyard
Growing Region: Howell Mountain, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 20 Months New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.9%
Suggested Retail: $125.00
WineSellar Club Price: $98.99
Broad Strokes: 93 Points WE
My mission is to offer Cabernet Sauvignon made from the highest quality grapes grown at my vineyard high atop Howell Mountain. These grapes were planted from scratch and all the important elements of winemaking researched and controlled to offer a product (to the most critical oenophile) that can compete with the finest Cabs in the world.
No expense or expertise has been spared to achieve my goals. In this process, the most qualified consultants including soil experts, vineyard managers, and winemakers have been employed. These experts are well known for their ability to help create a unique and delicious wine that will grow better with age.
Appearance:
Big, heavy bottle, little expense was spared putting this package together. Fun theme, and unique as well, separates the brand from all the others. I love the graphics, and the raised printing on the label, as well as the cork having moon colored wax at the top. The wine itself is black-purple-magenta, and dark at the core.
Nose:
Powerful, assertive nose that is in check with fruit, acid and wood elements. There is some herb, sage I believe, as well as sweet vanilla oak, smoke, roasted nuts, black pepper, and wet forest, giving it all an undertone of lovely complexity and presence.
Texture:
Not quite the “big dog” type that is over the top, the wine is rich, lush, full in the mouth, yet carries a wonderful balance that feels smooth through the palate even with the very full bodied character.
Flavors:
The flavors of the wine are true to the profile of the nose: Assertive fruit, yet balanced with, vanilla oak, herb, underbrush, smoke, cedar, black pepper, fresh cherry and lead pencil. The wine is not shy in personality or strength, and makes a great statement in the mouth, on the nose, and for the eyes.
Serving Suggestions:
I have had young Cabernets of this stature/build that will improve in the bottle for decades. This is one of those, and at least 6 bottles should be cellared for future gratification.
2017 Vinum Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, “The Insider”
Growing Region: Paso Robles California
Varietal Composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 18 Months in 2 Year Old French Oak, Then 3 Months New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes: 90 Points Best Buy WE.
From the Winery: It’s hard to believe, but we built our company in 1997 on credit cards and some help from family. Like many young, ambitious entrepreneurs we set out to challenge the status quo and earned a reputation as young Turks in an industry of Titans.
The name "The Insider" comes from the confidentiality agreement we had to sign in order to purchase the grapes from the vines of a well-known winery producing world class wines. With our insider connections and knowledge, we are able to offer you a wine of exceptional quality and pedigree at a price that will amaze.
Appearance:
A distinctive package, to be sure! Kind of a whimsical retro-nautical look. The wine is dark red/garnet, dark at the core, and leaves long legs inside the bowl.
Nose:
The nose has a lovely, interesting, exotic element that put me in a mild state of euphoria. Solid Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, with dark berry nuances of raspberry, boysenberry, and fresh blackberry. I detected scents of hickory nuts, ash, vanilla and black pepper over the wood elements.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body, smooth entry, and has a seamless, totally agreeable mouth-feel. The well-rounded fruit has a crispy finish. The texture reminds me of biting into a very ripe plum with skin on it, and it makes my mouth water.
Flavors:
Bing cherry popped out to me first, with ripe plum, and the ripe fruits from the nose, blackberry, boysenberry and raspberry. The berry intensity reminds of the pureness I remembered as a child when I first had Knott’s Berry Farm jellies (without the jam feel). Vanilla oak, spicy chocolate, mocha, and black & white pepper. LOVELY!!!
Serving Suggestions:
Winery Statement: This wine pairs well with Bolognese pastas or stews as well as anything off the grill from seared skirt steak to pan seared Filet Mignon served with truffle mashed potatoes and haricots verts seasoned with sea salt.
2014 PeaceLand Vineyards, Petite Sirah
Growing Region: Fountain District, Sonoma County, Ca.
Varietal Composition: 100% Petite Sirah
Fermentation: Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content: 14.7%
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: On a mountaintop in the Mayacamas Range, Peaceland Vineyard sits quietly on 200 acres, with less than 40 acres planted to vines. On the eastern side of the Mayacamas, the vineyard has a cooling influence that allows for a longer growing season than its Napa Valley neighbors. Its higher elevation puts it above the fog but below the frost line, making it the ideal spot to grow grapes.
The name of the PeaceLand Vineyard comes from the translation of its owners’ German last name—Friedland. The unique “tall-head” trained vines are planted in a wild fantasia of settings—steep hillsides, amidst groves of bay and live-oak, most with stunning vistas of the city of Santa Rosa far below.
Appearance:
It seems as if the label is almost trying to hide its brand, and furthermore, the website is not active . . . don’t you want to sell wine? The wine is nearly black, certainly opaque at the core, turning to dark crimson on the edges, showing no signs of being 6 years old.
Nose:
The aromatics are relatively quiet compared to the sensations you get on the palate. That being said, look for blueberry, ripe black plum, crushed rocks and violets. You may notice the ancillary scents of bacon, pork fat, smoke, tree bark, espresso, mocha, rosemary, star anise and oak.
Texture:
I would call this wine “Grippy”, as it has solid tannins and acid that makes the texture give and edge that holds the fruit tight. It took a long time for the wine to open up. Can’t believe it is six years old! Full and rich in fruit and power, you kind of fight off the tannins and acids to get to the deep fruit essence the wine carries.
Flavors:
Tightly wound at first, then opening up to reveal black plum, blueberries, blackberries, chocolate and a hint of mocha. Aside from the dense fresh fruit, look for mincemeat pie, roast beef, leather, sandalwood, chestnuts, roasted almonds, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine has another ten years of aging potential, but if you are drinking it now, try some heavy flavored BBQ or pasta Bolognese.
2017 Vinum Cellars, Chenin Blanc, 20th Anniversary
Growing Region: Clarksburg Vineyard, Yolo County, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Chenin Blanc
Fermentation: Nine Months in Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes: 90 Points Best Buy WE.
From the Winery: It’s hard to believe, but we built our company in 1997 on credit cards and some help from family. Like many young, ambitious entrepreneurs we set out to challenge the status quo and earned a reputation as young Turks in an industry of Titans. This label was created as a light hearted poke at an emerging Chardonnay market which turned its back on Chenin Blanc. It is still our belief that Chenin Blanc (when made well) rivals some of the greatest white wines of the world. This wine was made from cool climate grapes,
Appearance:
Good looking package overall. Hard to read the necessaries on the label though but find amusing the photograph of the two winemakers holding a poster. Screw cap! Back label is hard to read, but I have it under Broad Strokes for those of us who have small font reading challenges. The wine is brilliant light corn yellow and shows no signs whatsoever of being three years old.
Nose:
Winery: “The beautiful aromatics are tropical with passion fruit, green papaya and mango notes which reminisce nicely with subtle floral jasmine.” I found some orange, citrus peel, white pepper, roasted nuts.
Texture:
Tightly wound entry stays firm for quite some time. The wine is medium bodied, with a grapey feel and a creamy note on the finish.
Flavors:
Lime and lemon notes, some mineral and chalk, hot stones and white earth. Kind of reminds me of a lemony custard, perhaps a key lime pie even. Complexities build over a few minutes, bringing mineral and earth components forward.
Serving Suggestions:
Winery Statement: This Chenin Blanc pairs fantastically with a wide range of fine cheeses and charcuterie as well as many seafood selections. A natural match with chilled fresh oysters on the half shell, best when some of the wine is used to make in the mignonette. It is wonderful with nigiri sushi and sashimi alike but perhaps my favorite as a cool summer- time sipper by the pool.
2016 Domaine des Escaravailles Cotes Du Rhone “Les Sablieres”
Growing Region: Rasteau, Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
Fermentation: Nine Months in Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Domaine des Escaraveilles is located just north of Domaine Xavier in the village of Rasteau and their Les Sablieres bottling is a remarkably sophisticated wine for this price. Sourced from 40 to 50-year-old Grenache and 35 to 40-year-old Syrah vines planted in sandy clay and limestone soils over river rock, the vineyards are predominantly on the Rasteau estate with the rest coming from estate parcels just next door in Cairanne. Vinified separately in concrete tanks, Les Sablieres is a very intense and pure expression of the Rhône Valley.
Appearance:
Seems a little strange having a graphic of a beetle on your label, but evidently “Escaravay” (Escaravailles) is the local word for beetle. The inhabitants of this village used this nickname to describe the black-robed monks who were the owners of the farm in the 17th century. Still, it has a distinct and straightforward label. The wine is medium hued with grey/black garnet red robe.
Nose:
It is delicate, yet still quite expressive with cherry and strawberry dominating the scent, hovering over some road tar, truffle, black pepper and peppermint. Also got some coffee elements, fresh herbs, and hickory.
Texture:
While medium in body, it is expressive and long in the mid palate through to the finish. The acid seems well integrated to the fruit, and after the initial zesty feel upon opening the bottle, it
smooths out quite nicely and caries through the palate almost silk like. Excellent feel of crisp acid on the finish.
Flavors:
The aromatics come to the palate, with strawberry, cherry and some light wood elements coming forward. Then we get the more advanced flavors of truffle, mushroom, underbrush, black and white pepper, and a touch of graphite and tar (asphalt).
Serving Suggestions:
This would be great with our Potato Artichoke Gratin recipe. It also loves to be good friends with pizza, BBQ, grilled steaks or hamburgers, charcuterie, and all kinds of cheese.
Potato Artichoke Gratin
(Serves 4 as a side dish)
Ingredients:
- 3 ea. Russet potatoes, large
- 2 ea. globe artichokes*
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1 cup Parmesan cheese, plus additional for topping
- 1 tsp. salt
- ½ tsp. white pepper
Method:
- Reduce cream from 2 cups to 1 cup.
- Whisk in 1 cup of Parmesan cheese, let cool.
- Peel potatoes, slice thinly (3/16”) and mix with ¾ cup cream.
- Peel artichokes, slice hearts thinly and mix with remaining ¼ cup of cream.
- Butter an ovenproof dish.
- Layer potatoes first, then the artichokes on top.
- Sprinkle with Parmesan and cover with foil.
- Bake at 350° for 45 minutes, uncover and bake for an additional 5 to 10 minutes or until top is browned.
- Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.
* Frozen or canned artichoke hearts can be substituted for fresh hearts. If so, cut potato to 1/8” to reduce cooking time.