Wine Club Newsletter - March 2020
Australia Wine Faces ‘Toughest Year’ in Memory After Fires and Drought
The choking smoke that blanketed Australia’s east and south coast during devastating wildfires is roiling some of its storied wineries.
Some winemakers are scrapping vintages this year after grapes were hit by smoke taint, which gives wines a burnt, ashy or medicinal flavor, dealing a further blow to an industry already reeling from years of drought.
Clonakilla winery in New South Wales, north of Canberra, won’t produce a 2020 vintage after analysis showed unacceptably high levels of smoke taint “across all varieties and all vineyard sites,” CEO and chief winemaker Tim Kirk said.
The estate experienced “a barrage of smoke from fires on every side this summer,” which meant the wine quality could not be guaranteed, he said. “The severe drought and unprecedented bush fire emergency has made 2020 the toughest year in living memory for the Australian wine industry and for Australian farming in general,” Kirk said in a statement. Clonakilla will continue to sell earlier vintages and resume winemaking next year.
It’s far from alone. Tyrrell’s Wines in the Hunter Valley, north of Sydney, said it will produce about 20% of its typical output in 2020 after testing revealed smoke-taint damage. “Proximity to the fires, elevation of vineyards, and days in contact with fresh smoke” were taken into consideration when the decision was made, Managing Director Bruce Tyrrell said in a statement.
Hunter Valley
The NSW state government is paying for wine-grape growers to have their fruit tested. Early samples from the Hunter, Mudgee and Orange regions had shown some taint above critical levels, the government said. The South Australian government is also offering subsidized testing for growers in the fire-affected Adelaide Hills and Kangaroo Island areas.
“For those areas and producers it will be devastating,” Tony Battaglene, CEO of industry body Australian Grape & Wine, said in an interview, noting most affected fruit would have gone to domestic consumption, not exports.
Around 60,000 tons of grapes could be hit by taint, but “overall it won’t be significant” in terms of national output, he added. Some grapes could be filtered and used for grape concentrate or juice, he said.
The smoke taint has “created a bleak picture for Hunter wine producers this year with the potential for long term economic and agricultural damage to the oldest wine region in Australia,” Christina Tulloch, CEO of Tulloch Wines and President of the Hunter Valley Wine & Tourism Association, said in a statement, noting that small growers would be particularly affected.
Wildfire smoke has hurt some earlier Australian vintages and become a bigger issue in places like California, Oregon and parts of Canada and South Africa in the past decade. Australia’s La Trobe University is developing early detection tools to help growers assess the damage.
Still, amid devastation there’s innovation, with distillers, brewers and winemakers eyeing ways to use the tainted grapes to create new products.
Tulloch’s winery is working with Sydney-based Archie Rose Distilling, which is exploring uses for tainted grapes. The distiller will experiment with making brandy, and potentially other spirits, from wine made with more than 50 tons of smoke-affected Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Tulloch and First Creek Wines in the Hunter region.
Grape Beer:
As for Tyrrell’s fruit, some Semillon grapes have been harvested by Sydney-based Wildflower Brewing & Blending which will use them in its St Florence 2020 ale, which is refermented with wine grapes. The brewery noted in social media posts that previous beers made with smoke-affected grapes hadn’t shown negative attributes, though they’re unsure why.
Grape growers are focusing on building resilience in existing vineyards, as well as exploring the use of more Spanish and Italian varieties that are better suited to warmer conditions than the French ones traditionally planted in Australia, Battaglene said.
The country is the fifth-biggest wine producer, according to Wine Australia, and exports about 60% of its output. Shipments were worth $2.89 billion in the year ended September, with mainland China, the U.S. and U.K. the top markets.
Globally, the 2019 vintage was down 10% on 2018, with all major wine producing countries experiencing declines, according to Wine Australia. That reduction in supply, along with a weaker Australian dollar, should boost export opportunities for the country’s producers.
Years of devastating drought are expected to have the biggest impact on the size of Australia’s 2020 vintage, with the grape crush potentially down as much as 10-15%, Battaglene said. The harvest is under way in most areas with signs output has dropped in some of the big inland production regions, mostly due to drought and low water availability.
Ansile Chandler, Bloomberg Report
2017 Domaine Des Escaravailles Rasteau “La Ponce”
Growing Region: Rasteau, Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition: 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah
Fermentation: Syrah aged in Oak, Grenache Nine Months in Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 15%
Suggested Retail: $32.00
WineSellar Club Price: $25.99
Broad Strokes: 92-94 Points Jeb Dunnick, 92 Points The Wine Advocate
In 2010 the Rasteau AOC was created allowing the wines to be named after the village, dropping the Cotes-du-Rhone tag and joining the likes of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas at the pinnacle of the wine hierarchy in the Southern Rhone.
Domaine des Escaraveilles is located just north of Domaine Xavier in the village of Rasteau and their Rasteau bottling is a remarkably sophisticated wine for the price. Called a “Smoking Value” by critics. Sourced from 40 to 50-year-old Grenache and 35 to 40-year-old Syrah vines planted in sandy clay and limestone soils over river rock.
Appearance:
Seems a little strange having a graphic of a beetle on your label, but evidently “Escaravay” (Escaravailles) is the local word for beetle. The inhabitants of this village used this nickname to describe the black-robed monks who were the owners of the farm in the 17th century. Still, it has a distinct and straightforward label. The wine is darkly hued with grey/black/garnet red robe.
Nose:
Quite expressive nose of black raspberry, black cherry, lavender, bay leaves, spice, patchouli, and earthen soil. You can detect the oak that the Syrah brings to the nose, even though it was only 20% of the overall blend.
Texture:
The medium full body and weight has an excellent degree of richness, lending to a lavish impression in the mouth. Feels strapping with solid tannins, however it surprises you when the anticipated jolt of austerity instead turns creamy, round, and pleasantly engaging.
Flavors:
Blackberry, black raspberry fruits are deliciously forward, accented by cherry, spice, bay leaves, herbs, and the blast from my hippie past, patchouli oil. Some roasted meat, mocha, and a rumor of orange zest take the complexities to another dimension.
Serving Suggestions:
Rasteau wines are generally a bit rough in youth, but this is contrary to that. GREAT wine for our upcoming BBQ season. Will go well with anything needing red wine on the table.
2016 Marshall Davis Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton
Growing Region: Yamhill-Carlton AVA, Willamette, Oregon
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content: 14.2%
Suggested Retail: $38.00
WineSellar Club Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes: The wines are available to restaurants, specialty retail ONLY!
From the Winery: Founded in 2011 by brothers Sean Davis, Ryan Marshall, and Matt Marshall (pictured on the label). Marshall Davis creates small batch vineyard specific wines. We make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from our estate vineyard located in The Yamhill-Carlton AVA of the Willamette Valley.
We also craft full bodied wines such as our Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit originating from some of the most prestigious vineyards in the Walla Walla AVA. Stylistically we keep our wines focused and varietally correct. Winemaker Sean Davis believes in minimal manipulation, letting each vineyard express itself, with more attention paid to textures and tannin management.
Appearance:
Nice looking package overall, with the three brothers silhouetted and an easy to read title. Clean looking back label, and YAY! Another screw cap! The wine is garnet with shades of gray, clear around the rim of the glass.
Nose:
Classic Pinot Noir Varietal character, just as the producers aim. Notes of raspberry and plum fruits, with solid cherry meat. A bit of herb (sage) and spice box, rounded out with some underbrush and wood.
Texture:
This Pinot Noir feels stylish and graceful in the mouth. It is just medium in body and weight, smooth, velvety, with well-integrated acid, tannins and fruit balance. Kind of has a cola feel to it as well. The finish is typical Pinot Noir, light feeling fruit with acid that becomes larger and more pronounced after swallowing.
Flavors:
Cherry fruit dominates over the raspberry and plum nuances, and the wood elements (cedar, vanilla) seem to come out more on the palate than from the nose. Cherry cola, forest floor, wild mushrooms, and spices complete the package.
Serving Suggestions:
An excellent Pinot Noir to enjoy on its own or with food. A nice duck dish would go swimmingly with this wine!
2018 Yount Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, Estate
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Sauvignon Blanc, (33% Sauvignon Musque Clones)
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented, Sur-Lie Aging 6 Months
Alcohol Content: 14.4%
Suggested Retail: $39.00
WineSellar Club Price: $34.19
Broad Strokes: A WHITE Wine!!!??? A Sauvignon Blanc??? What up?
“Well, I did say every once in a while I wanted to throw in a very special white wine into The Gary Parker Collection. Happens about every five years. I’m truly pleased to offer this special bottle and rare bottle of wine.”
Celia Welch is one of Napa Valley’s top winemakers. Celia was named one of Forbes.com Top Ten Tastemakers of 2006 and inducted into the Winemakers Hall of Fame by the national educational organization, Women for Winesense.
In the early nineties Celia chose to focus on independent wine consulting. The wines she has made create a microcosm of Napa Valley, from vineyards on Mt. Veeder, Atlas Peak, and Howell Mountain, including Carneros, and bench land vineyards from St. Helena to Napa.
Appearance:
If you remember, I LOVE clear bottles, especially when the wine is patterned to be like a great White Bordeaux. Classy, simple label, the wine is a solid light yellow, tinged green.
Nose:
Passion fruit, guava, vanilla and a touch of spice (cumin) comes across as rich, yet racy, vibrant and assertive. Pineapple essence here will follow up on the palate. Lovely notes of citrus flower and jasmine.
Texture:
The texture is a total winner!!! Feeling fresh, youthful, yet firmly established with fabulous acidity, matching perfectly well with the body and structure. We know this will develop quite well over time. It’s so Pleasing, so Promising, so Parker Collection!
Flavors:
The tropical fruit of guava, mango and passion fruit emphasize the presence of the pineapple and pineapple acid on the palate. Layers of flavors keep coming, including peach, citrus (and citrus flower), vanilla, mineral, white stone (fruit too!)/ Again, a great White Bordeaux style of wine from Napa Valley at a fraction of the cost!
Serving Suggestions:
This is a keeper for 4-6 years, but drinking so well now . . . and for the price, I suggest stowing away 6-12 bottles to witness its glory.
2018 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Growing Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 12-15 Months in Wood
Alcohol Content: 14.0%
Suggested Retail: $85.00
WineSellar Club Price: $58.49
From the Winery: 94 Points!!! Available to restaurants, specialty retail ONLY!
Beaux Frères is situated on a former pig farm in Ribbon Ridge, Oregon. Co-owner and managing partner Michael G. Etzel stumbled across the 36 hectare (88 acre) plot in 1986 and that same year purchased the land with his wine critic brother-in-law Robert Parker.
From the start it was Pinot Noir that was to become the focus of the Yamhill County estate. In 1991, Robert Roy joined as the third co-owner of the estate and, with his help, the Beaux Frères winery was built, leading to the release of the estate's first Pinot Noir vintage under its own label. Perhaps the most collectible Pinot Noir in America, Beaux Freres has set a standard that few can match.
Appearance:
Somewhat understated but certainly identifiable is the label, bottle and graphics for Beaux Freres. The liquid is a brilliant dark cherry skin red, nearly opaque at the core, and clear, bright cherry at the rim. Gorgeous!
Nose:
Hypnotic. Elegant. Perfumed. Full style Pinot Noir (not overblown, thank you) that is in balance and harmony, with red flower, cherries, black tea, earth notes, potpourri, clove and spice notes. Keeps evolving!
Texture:
The clean, near full in the mouth entry is slightly acidic with some cranberry juice feel, evolving into a full, lush middle and long finish. The middle palate tannins begin to melt and bolster the solid foundation for an endless finish and future aging.
Flavors:
As with the nose, the flavors keep evolving. Dark cherry and raspberry fruit edged with rhubarb, black tea, rose, red candy and the spice notes. Wood forest, plums, clove, black cherry, perhaps a touch of anise, this fruit forward, strong, gorgeous Pinot Noir is tops in its class and style.
Serving Suggestions:
The Beaux Freres wines are not easy to come by at the retail level, and especially at a discounted price as the one we are offering members of The Gary Parker Collection. Grab as many as you can afford, and stash them for 5-12 years, and you will be pleased!
2018 Korbin Cameron Sauvignon Blanc, Estate
Growing Region Moon Mountain District, Sonoma County
Varietal Composition 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation 30 Days in Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 14.1%
Suggested Retail $30.00
WineSellar Club Price $22.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Korbin Kameron, Moonridge Vineyard is a family endeavor. On a drive through the Sonoma Valley, we - Jenny and myself along with our children Kristin, Korbin and Kameron - came upon a homestead hovering high above the valley floor, so high that the land lived above the clouds. The house looked over acres and acres of rolling hills, wild with nature. And in that idyllic scene, we saw our dream of working together and creating quality wines from our estate grown grapes coming to life.
After many years of planning, turning, planting and nurturing the land, we reaped our first harvest and Moonridge Vineyard was born. Our wine brand, Korbin Kameron, is named after my two twins. The vineyard, located on a 186-acre property on Mount Veeder, embodies the best trait of each member of my family: know-how, determination, creativity, vision, compassion and exuberance. Though we are new to the enterprise of winemaking, we have relied upon their acumen and experience in business and fashion to craft quality Bordeaux varietal wines and create lasting family memories.
Appearance:
I have mixed feelings about the packaging. Overall looks is sleek and contemporary, and the bottle is beautiful, but the paper label at the bottom is nearly impossible to read in any light. The wine is pretty and very clear, with a hue of white corn.
Nose:
Some gooseberry on the nose, with a hint of lime and lemon, apples and tropical fruit. A bit tight at first, getting lovely with some white flowers and fresh pear.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body, and feels good in the palate. Edgy, slightly tart citric acids need a bit of taming, which time melds. Good, long, persistent finish is clean and vibrant.
Flavors:
After the initial notes of citrus (Meyer lemon, grapefruit), the tropical fruits of guava and pineapple emerge, wrapped by Granny Smith apple, lemongrass, fresh pears and Honeydew melon.
Serving Suggestions:
A fab summer sipper, excellent with appetizers or on its own! Under 200 cases produced.
2016 Chateau St. Martin de la Garrigue, Bronzinelle
Growing Region Languedoc, France
Varietal Composition 37% Syrah, 24% Grenache Noir, 20% Carignan, 19% Mourvedre
Fermentation Varietals Vinified Separately, 3-5 Years Used Oak
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $24.00
WineSellar Club Price $22.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: “For me, wine is the blood of the earth, it is not just a pretty image but what connects us to nature and allows us to engage in dialogue with it, to understand it, to talk to it, sometimes to disagree with it but always to respect it. It is a living, sensitive organism, with mood swings, opening moments and others where it is dissatisfied and makes it known. I was raised in a family environment of aesthetes, creators, where beauty guided our lives and where the senses (eye, touch, smell, taste) were constantly solicited. The passion for beauty, poetry in the broadest sense of the word, harmony, and taste surrounded my childhood and youth, and of course the meals were always accompanied by wines, not necessarily the most beautiful labels, but joyful and elegant wines. I don't like label drinkers, who are willing to pay 30€ for a bad burgundy but find a Languedoc wine at 12€ too expensive before tasting it. A good wine from an unpretentious region will always be better than an average wine from Bordeaux or Burgundy.”
Appearance:
Classic French label with the drawing/etching of the Chateau front and center. Classy looking label from this area, where generally labels lean towards homey and simplistic. The wine has a dark red/black core, bleeding to magenta on the rim.
Nose:
Captivating and tertiary nose of red and black fruits, especially raspberry. Good spice elements, with wood, smoke, lard, rosemary and black pepper
Texture:
It has an absolutely lovely texture on this medium-full-bodied wine. It is smooth, velvety, creamy, kind of chewy, and seamless. In spite of its smooth creaminess, tis wine has the structure to age a few more years . . . it is sneaky lively!
Flavors:
Red and black fruits, of course, with mocha, vanilla with other dark berries. Some smoke, fresh herbs of bay leave, rosemary and thyme, grilled bread, and delicious spice notes. YAY!
Serving Suggestions:
I want this wine everyday! A great value, so pleasant to drink, so interesting, this is what the fun of wine is all about! Enjoy!
Salmon Patties (Cakes)
My Mother made us kids salmon patties a few times a month, which we loved, even though the salmon was canned. These are fun for casual evenings, or as a first course for an elaborate dinner, and great with Tartar, Dill or Hollandaise sauce, as well as lemon and diced avocado. Great with Sancerre, Chardonnay, and other high acid white wines.
Makes eight 3” patties.
Ingredients:
- 1/3 lbs skinless salmon
- 1 cup panko bread crumbs
- 2 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
- 2 green onions, chopped (1/3 cup)
- 1 garlic clove, minced (1 teaspoon)
- 3 tablespoon mayonnaise
- 1 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 3/4 teaspoon old bay seasoning
- 1 egg yolk
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 6 tablespoon olive oil, divided
Method:
- Using a sharp knife coarsely chop salmon to a sausage like texture (approx. 1/4-inch pieces). This can also be done in a 3 batches in quick bursts in a food processor.
- In a large mixing bowl stir together 1/4 cup panko bread crumbs, parsley, green onions, garlic, mayonnaise, lemon zest, Dijon mustard, old bay seasoning, egg yolk, salt (or to taste) and pepper.
- Add salmon then toss well to evenly coat with mixture. Scoop mixture 1/3 cup at a time creating 8 equal portions.
- Pour remaining 3/4 cup panko into a shallow dish. Press and shape portions into 3-inch patties.
- Pour 3 tablespoons oil into a large non-stick skillet. Add four salmon patties. Let fry until golden brown on bottom, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip and continue to cook until second side is golden brown and patties are just cooked through, about 2 minutes longer.
- Let drain on paper towels then repeat process with remaining four salmon patties. Serve warm with lemon wedges for spritzing.