Wine Club Newsletter - April 2020
A Very Special Visit: Kumeu River Winery
In 2006, we took a group of wine lovers on a tour of New Zealand, and fell in love with the people, the land, and the wines on both the North and South Islands. One winery I had hoped to visit the was Kumeu River, for I had their stunning Chardonnay’s back in the states, which I found to be sublime and of exceptional quality and character.
Our group did not go to Kumeu River Winery, as it was further north than the Hawkes Bay wineries we were scheduled to visit, but I had planned on visiting Kumeu River after the tour whilst we were awaiting departure from Auckland back to the states. We took the drive, and upon arriving, we discovered the winery was closed on that day of the week. SHOOT!
Ratchet ahead ten years, and we are making a return trip to New Zealand, this time with two groups of traveling wine lovers, and we were there for a full month. We focused on Hawkes Bay, Marlborough and Queenstown areas to take our guests, but I had definitely made time after the tours to go see Kumeu River (up closer to Auckland) on a day they were open.
Our last tour group finished in Auckland, and before some friends were departing that afternoon, we decided to lunch together at a fine dining restaurant overlooking the water. After lunch, Lori and I were due to drive East to the coast. We planned on staying at a Bed & Breakfast overlooking Karekare beach. It is a beautiful, vast, black sand beach that was in the opening scene of the 1993 movie “The Piano”.
Fate had different plans . . . at lunch, while taking a bite of duck, the meat became lodged in my esophagus, which sometimes happens to me if I am under stress or have eaten something I am allergic too. Generally, a gulp of something fizzy and acidic, such as Diet Coke, will send the object down the hatch.
I struggled in the Men’s room in the restaurant for nearly an hour, trying to force the Diet Coke down, but it would just come back up, alas, without any duck meat. Our lunch partner is a well-noted Gastroenterologist, who did what he could to help, and finally told me I should go to the Auckland hospital for removal of the object.
This meant Lori had to drive me there, while I am under duress, and people drive on the opposite side of the road, adding to Lori’s discomfort. After a couple of “Uh-Oh” moments in the heart of the big city, we make it to the hospital. As soon as appropriate, I convey to the nurse that we would very much like to be out of there before dark, as we did not want to be driving in a foreign land, other side of the road, out in the middle of nowhere.
Long story short, they kept me overnight because they had to stitch up my esophagus, torn because of my violent and extensive retching. Poor Lori, stressed because of my condition, could not find a place to stay overnight. Many New Zealanders fled north from the earthquake at Christchurch a few days prior, fearing another aftershock, and filling all hotel rooms.
Amazingly, she contacted some of our fellow travelers to get the name of the B&B they stayed at in Auckland. Lori called, they were full, but had a friend who could put her up for the night. She taxied over, and came back the next morning to get me.
I had a noon appointment with Paul Brajkovich, co-owner of Kumeu River Winery. I did NOT want to miss them this time, so I made sure I was out of there in time to get to the winery, which was definitely not easy to do as per the nature of my case.
An interesting side note, the overnight stay, the operation to remove the obstacle and all other occurrences was billed in the range of $2,000. In the United States, it may have been up to ten times that. And to our delight, the hospital invoice was covered by their government!
Got to the winery right at noon, met Paul, took a brief tour, and got right into tasting his incredible Chardonnays. Ten of them to be exact, including a 2006 “Mates” Vineyard, which tasted fresh, complex, exciting!
A few years back, Kumeu River Chardonnays were entered into a blind tasting in France, pitted against other top-notch White Burgundy wines. Every one of the Kumeu River Chardonnay wines placed first! I think they are some of the greatest made anywhere on the planet. In fact, in 2017, Kumeu River was nominated for New World Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.
On the left is Paul with all the wines he poured for Lori and I during our visit to Kumeu River. I wanted him to smile big, so I said “Just think, one hour ago I was in a hospital gown with my derriere exposed.” The picture on the right Lori took after our visit to the winery, enjoying one of the great Chardonnays Paul sent with us to unwind at the Karekare Beach B&B. What a DAY!
2017 Kumeu River Chardonnay, “Kumeu Village”
Growing Region Moon Mountain District, Sonoma County
Varietal Composition 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation 30 Days in Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 14.1%
Suggested Retail $30.00
WineSellar Club Price $22.49
Special Price by Case $15.99 (Bought 45 cases, HELP!)
Broad Strokes: 90 Points, James Suckling & 90 Points Cellar Tracker
This is my go to house wine, and I am very pleased with it! (GP)
A few years back, Kumeu River Chardonnays were entered into a blind tasting in France, pitted against other top-notch White Burgundy wines. Every one of the Kumeu River Chardonnay wines placed first! I think they are some of the greatest made anywhere on the planet. In fact, in 2017, Kumeu River was nominated for New World Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. “If you can taste history, duty, and family pride in a glass, it’s there in the Kumeu River Chardonnays...now producing some of New Zealand’s greatest Chardonnays, not to mention the world’s.”- Lisa Perrotti-Brown, M.W./Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
Appearance:
A distinctive, clean, classy, easy to read package, with a screw cap! The label reminds me of the Louis Latour White Burgundies, with similar font and coloring. The wine itself is a light straw hue, tinge of green pea, and glistens in the light.
Nose:
There is a tiny bit of oak influence on the nose . . . then comes ripe peach fruit and pears, pine nuts, white pepper and a rumor of tropical fruits. The aromatics have an edge to them, with some lemon and lime nuances.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body. It is kind of racy and edgy, lively and vibrant, and it does a delightful dance for your palate. Even with the edginess, there is still a bit of creamy, rich fruit feel to it, along with a long, generous finish.
Flavors:
Very true and varietal correct Chardonnay fruit, that is not overripe, over oaked, over done. Clean and classy, the lime and lemon notes from the nose go directly to the flavor wheel, as do the pear, peach and tropical fruit (mango). Got a bit of vanilla oak in the middle, with tangerine. YUMMY!
Serving Suggestions:
You will not fine this wine for this price anywhere, guaranteed. The quality is incredible, the wine will improve for years, and you should always have a bottle of this in the fridge.
2016 Chateau L’Argenteyre, Medoc
Growing Region Medoc, Bordeaux, France
Varietal Composition 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Fermentation French Oak Barrels for 12 Months
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.09
Special Price by Case $14.99
Broad Strokes: 89 Points Wine Enthusiast, Gold Medal Concourse Paris 2018
From the Winery: The vineyard of Château Argenteyre, the flower of its appellation, covers a surface area of 27 hectares (about 65 acres). Painstaking tending of the vines and careful vinification by its passionate viticulturalist-owners, Philippe and Gilles Reich, allow this outstanding terroir to fully express itself. The vines average fifteen to forty years old, and are tended in a traditional way, hand harvested and sorted.
Appearance:
Ha! They tricked me! It isn’t the typical etching of the Chateau on the label, it is an embossed rendering of the façade. Nice idea, but it got lost in the execution somewhere, somehow. The wine has a dark ruby and plum skin color. It reflects light very well, still pretty bright for a 2016.
Nose:
The nose is lovely, and typical of fine red wines from the Medoc Region: Dark fruits, cassis and black currant, tobacco and leather, with earthy tones of forest floor and perhaps a touch of smoke. Some vanilla and chocolate aromatics, as well as wood from the barrels, and a touch of clove.
Texture:
This Bordeaux has a body I would call as medium, as is the weight and feel in the mouth. The wine has a very pleasing dab of juicy fruit upon the entry. It is well structured, with good, high, natural acids and solid, well-melded tannic structure. The finish is clean, long, and lingers well.
Flavors:
Rich dark plum fruit, with cherry fruit, blackberry jam, cassis, hints of black pepper and caramel. I like the wood notes of vanilla, chocolate, smoke and spice, as well as the earthy tones, forest floor, tobacco and leather. All delicious!
Serving Suggestions:
Such a fun Bordeaux drink!!! It is really pleasant, drinks well on its own, and a lot of bang for the buck. Excellent with cheese, sausages, charcuterie essentially.
2014 Chateau Milon, Saint Emilion, Grand Cru
Growing Region: Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France
Varietal Composition: 95% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: 12-15 Months in 30% New Oak
Alcohol Content: 13.5%
Suggested Retail: $33.00
WineSellar Club Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wines are produced under slightly tighter production restrictions than regular Saint-Émilion wines. As with other grand cru appellations, the intention behind this is to improve the quality, and to distinguish the area's finer wines from the more everyday wines. All French wines undergo official panel tastings before being granted AOC status, which provides some guarantee of quality. But the panels test for typicity and consistency (they do not compare one Grand Cru appellation with another) and the quality expected of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wines has been firmly established over the preceding 60-or-so vintages.
Appearance:
We are looking at the classic label of Bordeaux, France, with the etching of the Chateau front and center. It seems rather simple and straightforward, however, it is quite effective. The wine is quite pretty, with a solid garnet coloring which goes to nearly clear at the edge of the bowl. Tiny hints of age (tea) on it, but ever so slight.
Nose:
Even and mellow, as you might expect from a wine that is 75% Merlot, not to mention six years old. The aromatics are evolved, passing the exuberance of youth to become refined and elegant. Kind of a sweet and cedar thing, with flowers (violets) mineral, stone and a dash of wood.
Texture:
I would call the wine medium to medium-light in body and weight. The texture matches the nose in terms of elegance and refinement. It passes through the mouth without incident, the balance is all there, and it finishes quite lovely.
Flavors:
While the flavor profile is soft overall, there lurks some wonderful taste sensations: black cherry, plum, cedar, some graphite, mineral, vanilla and a crush of herbs. Also note a hint of anise and coffee.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine is ready to drink now, and the Chateau believes it will go on for another four years. I think it is lovely right now, to be enjoyed with soft cheeses and lean meats.
2017 Sangiovese, Carr Winery
Growing Region: Santa Ynez Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Sangiovese
Fermentation: 20% New Oak for 18 Months
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $39.00
WineSellar Club Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
Established in 1999. Carr Vineyards & Winery specializes in limited production wines from Santa Barbara County. Owner and Winemaker Ryan Carr also oversees the management of over 100 acres of vineyards, allowing him to handcraft each vintage from grapes grown to his specification. By 2006 Ryan had helped build three wineries and planted over 200 acres of grapes in Santa Barbara County. Now he was finally working on a winery of his own. In the spring of 2007 Carr opened its doors in downtown Santa Barbara. The winery was one of only four full production wineries and tasting rooms in the downtown area. Since then the wines and the facility have received many accolades and awards and Ryan has continued to produce some of the finest wines in Santa Barbara County.
Appearance:
Isn’t that bottle just really cool looking? Sleek, contemporary, black with the grape cluster and leaf image, it is striking, independent, brilliant. The wine is very dark in color, darker than Sangiovese typically is.
Nose:
It’s an in your face kind of nose, though not overpowering, just fruit forward. Cherry, berry, strawberry, dark forest floor, rhubarb and a hint of anise. Roasted nuts, vanilla oak, black pepper, and perhaps dates.
Texture:
The wine has a medium full body, with good richness in the palate. It feels silky and velvety, yet packed with power. Not the overwhelming kind of power, just kind of a big, round, enveloping feel in the mouth. It finishes dry.
Flavors:
The ripe fruit is quite evident, coming in with wide-open round fruits of blueberry and blackberry, with a solid dollop of sweet vanilla oak. It’s expansive in the palate, exhibiting some notes of chocolate, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, then even dates, fresh herbs and toasted/roasted nuts.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is drinking deliciously in its current state. I imagine it will improve with bottle age, but I would have it with a pasta Bolognese recipe, for sure!
2016 Crosshatch, “Depth”
Growing Region: Santa Ynez Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: 20% New Oak for 20 Months
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $40.00
WineSellar Club Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: All of the wines produced by CrossHatch Winery are co-fermented blends sourced from Santa Barbara County vineyards. CrossHatch is a project created in 2011 by winemaker Ryan Carr that focuses on co-fermented blends from Santa Barbara County vineyards. After making only single varietal wines for eleven years, winemaker Ryan Carr wanted to try something different. He and his wife Jessica came up with the idea for CrossHatch, inspired by the classic form of art. Cross hatching is an artistic technique that uses closely spaced intersecting lines to create shading, definition, and form in a drawing.
Appearance:
The labels were inspired by the antique winemaking equipment Ryan and his dad have collected over the years. Local Santa Barbara artist, Thomas Van Stein, used the crosshatch technique to draw the images of the crusher, corkscrew, basket press and basket of grapes used on the labels. The wine is beautiful, dark red/black core, dripping slowly down the bowl.
Nose:
After seeing the bottle and the color of the wine, my anticipation turned to the realization of an assertive, fruity nose that was engaging, complex, and thought provoking. Dark berry, cherry, and red ripe fruits were lined with Asian spices, basil, chocolate and a note of yeast reminding me of cookie dough.
Texture:
Medium full in body and weight, it has a little fight going on between the smooth and elegant Merlot fruit battling the mannish fruit of the Cabernet Franc. Kind of a New World-Old World battle in style. End result is a vibrant wine with excellent texture.
Flavors:
Lots of spices in the flavor wheel here, cumin, cardamom, and the Asian spices. Dark cherry, black cherry fruit, with hints of fig and balsamic. Some notes of pomegranate, the cookie dough from the nose, hard to believe grapes can make flavors like this. So cool!
Serving Suggestions:
A keeper for a few more years, but I love it now! Grilled steaks!
2012 Barolo, “Arborina”, Corino
Growing Region: Piedmont, Italy
Varietal Composition: 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation: 35% New Oak, 65% Used, for 24 Months
Alcohol Content: 15.0%
Suggested Retail: $80.00
WineSellar Club Price: $67.49
Broad Strokes: 94 Points Vinous, 93 Points Wine Spectator
In 2005, after 20 years of working together, the Corino brothers decided to split their father’s estate. That year marked the beginning of the Azienda Agricola Renato Corino, a new winery situated in the heart of the Arborina cru vineyard of Barolo.
Driven by passion and enthusiasm, Renato dedicates himself to his land and wine making tradition. The management of the winery and vineyards is completely in the hands of Renato, supported by his children, Stefano and Chiara.
Appearance:
Classy and classic looking label for an esteemed producer of fine Barolo. It features a family coat of arms, simple but effective label, with the DOCG band at the neck. The garnet hue of this wine is a bit darker than typical Barolo, due to the excellent vintage and degree of ripeness achieved.
Nose:
The complex aromatics are quite floral, detecting rose petals, along with cherry and raspberry fruit, with smoke, blood orange, leather and hazelnuts. Going further, a hint of tar, toasty pine/cedar, tobacco, white pepper . . .
Texture:
It has a clean and elegant feel to it, not heavy or weighty, actually kind of feminine. The tannins are velvety, the fruit is strong, but it all seems calm and fluid, lustrous, warming, persistent, and dare I say delightful!
Flavors:
The modern style vinification and an excellent vintage, brings a hint of California style to this Italian classic. A bit darker, richer, cherry, strawberry and plum fruits are lined with violets, dried rose petals, peonies, tobacco, fresh herbs, leather, hazelnut, cedar, white pepper, and spices.
Serving Suggestions:
This very special Barolo is simply gorgeous on the palate, and has become an unforgettable drink of wine for me. I find myself wanting more of this wine as I write to you from my tasting notes. I think 6-12 bottles for the cellar would be appropriate. I could see holding on to this wine for another decade or two.
Champagne Moussé Fils NV, Anecdote, Blanc de Blancs, Lieu-Dit Les Varosses
Growing Region: Cuisles, in the Marne Valley of Champagne, France
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 100% Chardonnay
Vinification (From the winery): Aged for 36 months on the lees
Dosage: 2 g/l
Alcohol Content 12%
Suggested Retail $59.99
WineSellar Club Price $53.99
A grower since 1750, Champagne Moussé sits in the village of Cuisles, in a valley perpendicular to the Vallee de la Marne. This side valley has a unique soil in Champagne: a schist subsoil under clay. Cedric Moussé adheres to a ‘lutte raisonee’ approach. He practices organic viticulture, using herbal infusions that act as ‘vitamins’ for the vines, cover crops, zero pesticides, and minimal doses of heavy metals like copper.
From the Winery:
Anecdote is an unusual cuvée, produced in small quantities, and made of Chardonnay from a particular spot in Cuisles called « Les Varosses ». Some 25 years ago, we noticed that the soil of this plot was especially deep (1.60m, unlike the rest of Cuisles: 0.70m), which is why we decided to plant a varietal that likes deep soils: Chardonnay.
This Champagne is a curiosity, and it is unique, as it was the first 100% Chardonnay ever to be made in Cuisles.
93 points, Vinous
Appearance:
Pale yellow with light gold hue
Nose:
Tangerine, floral notes, dried pear, anise, lemon, pastry
Texture:
Dense but lively, elegant, very juicy
Flavors:
Citrus, orchard fruits, touch of smoke, intensely saline and captivating
Serving Suggestions:
Superb as an aperitif, it is also delicious when served with a grilled fish or desserts made from yellow fruits!
NV Champagne Gaston Chiquet Brut Rosé 1er Cru
Growing Region: 1er Cru vineyards surrounding the villages of Hautvillers, Dizy, Mareuil sur Aÿ
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir
Vinification (From the winery): 26-32 months on the lees
Dosage: 9.6g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $59.99
WineSellar Club Price: $53.99
From the Winery:
Eight generations have passed since Nicolas Chiquet planted his first vine in 1746. Today, the Champagne brand Gaston Chiquet is still lead by the family. From generation to generation our family has produced Champagne by combining time-honored tradition with the latest oenological innovations. We take great pride in expressing the special character of the terroir and cepages of our region. We are pleased to anounce that our company is certified as a High environmental value and Champagne Sustainable Viticulture since october 2015
92 points, Wine Spectator
Appearance:
Luminous pink-orange hue
Nose:
Ripe red fruits, black cherry, strawberry, cassis
Texture:
Smooth and fresh palate, fine bubbles
Flavors:
Red fruits, blackberry, cherry, hint of lemon on the finish
Serving Suggestions:
This Champagne will be delicious with salmon (poached, smoked, or in gravlax)
or with red berries-based desserts (not too sweet). Cheers!
Roasted Red Peppers with Bufala Mozzarella
With Porcini Mushroom Scented Olive Oil
(Serves 4 as an appetizer or side dish)
Ingredients:
- 2 ea. Fresh Red Bell Peppers
- 8 ozs. Bufula Mozzerella Cheese
- 4 ozs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- 2 ozs. Dried Porcini Mushrooms
- 4 Leaf Basil
- Pinch of salt
- 1 tsp. Juice from Meyer Lemon
Method:
1st Day
Pour the olive oil into a jelly jar
Add the Dried Porcini Mushrooms, pinch of Salt and Meyer Lemon juice
Set aside on counter for a day or longer (a week is good).
Rinse then cut the red bell peppers in half, removing the stems and seeds
Coat them lightly with oil, inside and out
Place them round side up in oven, and bake at 300-325f. 35-40 minutes
Don’t let the meat of the peppers turn black, it’s ok if the skins get dark
When peppers are cooked through (very soft), remove from oven and let them cool
Remove the skins (by pulling up at the center is easyist)
Wipe extra oil off the pepper halves and from the pan into a bowl and save**
Refrigerate the peppers until time to serve
Serving Day
Drain any extra oil from the peppers into a bowl*
Cut Bufula Mozzerella Cheese into 2 ounce slices and place inside each pepper
Top with the Porcini Mushroom scented olive oil*, garnish with Basil Leaves
Notes:
* There will be 2-3 ounces of the Porcini Olive Oil left over. Use it as part of a salad dressing for another time, or to top over cooked proteins, such as fish, chicken, meat. For an extra kick, add teaspoon of chopped shallots to it.
**The extra oil from roasting the peppers is also a great oil for making salad dressing. Add Dijon mustard, lemon, shallots, garlic . . .