Wine Club Newsletter - September 2020
Never Give Up the Sip
2006 Pauillac, Pichon Longueville
As you may know, I have been in the wine and food industry since 1975, yes forty-five years. I have opened bottles of very young wine, and bottles of very old wine. The oldest of which was an 1805 Malmsey, which was still delicious twenty years ago.
In fact, I have opened, by my estimations, over 125,000 bottles of wine in my career, and at home. Most of them at work, of course! Now, think about this . . . if we were to lay down each bottle on the road head to toe, it would go over 25 miles.
Being in my profession, and as an appraiser of wine, a wine judge and collector, I have had the pleasure to experience many great, classic wines. That is certainly a highlight of being in my industry, which we all know, is a very challenging one.
I’m telling you all this to qualify myself to you so that the information I pass along in the next couple of paragraphs will stick to your wine sensibilities. I bought the wine, pictured above, when it was released in 2008. I had not tasted it prior, but it was made by one of the very top producers in Bordeaux, and it was their third level wine. It was a very good vintage, the wine was not too expensive, so I thought I would take a chance and purchase just six of them.
I tried the wine a week or so later, and found it very disappointing. It was way too tannic, it had an almost lacquer like essence to the nose, and even some of that on the palate. I decided to wait another couple years and see if it would evolve more favorably.
Popped another on in 2010, and it hadn’t changed much at all. Some of the lacquer component had dissipated, but it was still uneven, harsh and edgy. I waited another five years to open the next one, but it was as expected, unremarkable, but certainly less offensive than in its youth.
Well, I opened another last week, my last one of course, and it was incredible! The wine had fleshed out, bringing delightful floral and berry fruit, with vanilla oak nuances, true, lovely balance and that great silken, even, Bordeaux texture. I was bummed I didn’t get more of them, and that I was a bit impatient about its evolution.
The lesson is, don’t give up on wines that are young, perhaps very tannic, (but not chemically defective), especially if they come from a reputable producer. This is why we store wine for you, so you can enjoy the fruits that time brings to your bottles!
Cheers!
Gary Parker
2017 Noria Sauvignon Blanc, Bevill Family Vineyard
Growing Region Russian River Valley, Ca.
Varietal Composition 97% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Gewurztraminer
Fermentation 60% Stainless Steel, 40% Neutral Oak
Alcohol Content 13.9%
Suggested Retail $26.00
WineSellar Club Price $21.59
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Nori Nakamura first learned about fine wine at his uncle’s Italian restaurant in Tokyo. After college he visited Italy and tasted a phenomenal 1981 Barbaresco that clarified his life’s goal of being a winemaker. Fulfilling his dream, he enrolled in the viticulture program at UC Davis where he graduated in 2002. Subsequently, he has gone on to become assistant winemaker at Koves-Newlan, Pine Ridge Vineyards & Artesa and head winemaker at Jamison Ranch and currently at Larson Family Winery.
Noria white wines are modeled after traditional Japanese sakes. They are especially made to balance the quiet shifts of flavor found in Japanese food. The Noria Sauvignon Blanc 2017 is modeled after a style of Japanese sake called “Dai-gingo”.
Appearance:
A diversion from the standard Sauvignon Blanc bottle, instead using a low profile Loire Valley/Pinot Noir style shaped bottle. Quite attractive overall, pale violet foil cap, and the “Water Wheel” symbol is really cool: “Noria” means water wheel in Spanish. The wine has a silver/white corn hue, is clean looking, and shimmers in the light.
Nose:
Subtle tree fruit, especially Asian pear, with lychee, mineral, roasted almonds, ripe citrus, Mandarin Orange, some grapefruit, and a distant note of fresh herbs and bottle age.
Texture:
The wine has an awesome refreshing feel. The tactful acid gives way to even, well-balanced refined fruit that glides through the palate. It is uncommonly smooth, yet still maintains a light, liveliness that is, once again, awesome!
Flavors:
The nose is once again the window to the palate. The Asian pear is prominent, and so is lychee, the ripe Mandarin Orange style citrus, with mineral, grapefruit and toasted nuts. I didn’t really get the fresh herbs on the palate. But you know what? It does remind me Sake, and I have never had a California wine like it. All the wine shop staff went crazy for this wine, and I think it is fantastic as well.
Serving Suggestions:
Sushi, sashimi, tempura, or just sitting around and drinking it on its own.
2015 Chateau Magdeleine Bouhou, BOHA
Growing Region Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux
Varietal Composition 80% Merlot. 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation Traditional Concrete Vats
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $23.00
WineSellar Club Price $19.79
Broad Strokes: 90 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery: In the 19th century, the estate became the property of wine merchants from Bordeaux : MM. Arnaud and Jeantet. The wife of Mr. Arnaud and the daughter of Mr. Jeantet were both named Madeleine and they had strong personalities. As a link between these two families, the property took the name Magdeleine-Bouhou. The Estate has been in the same family since 1908! Bouhou or “Bouhar” in local language, means to blow. A name inspired by the strong wind, which is generated by the Gironde estuary. So strong, that it could make play alone “Boha”, the local bagpipe. At the east of Blaye, the Magdeleine-Bouhou’s property is planted on a clay and limestone soil, typical from this region.
Appearance:
Well, the label is eye catching, and makes you somewhat curious about what the story is on the wine. The wording on the front of the bottle is in French, so it doesn’t do most of us much good, but it is a good story (see above). The wine is ruby, with gray/black hues, growing lighter to the rim of the glass.
Nose:
Medium fruit intensity with high tone notes of black and red fruits, black pepper, cherry juice, pomegranate and a hint of truffle. Round and supple, just like the texture and flavor.
Texture:
Well structured, with attractively melded tannins and a bright acidity. The wine comes off super smooth, supple and well-rounded. Juicy, balanced with sweet fruit and a crispy acidity . . . quite pleasant.
Flavors:
Blackberry fruit pops out first, followed by black cherry, black and white pepper, coffee, cappuccino, and I even got chocolate covered raisins. These delightful flavors become more intriguing with further tones of fresh herbs, green leaf dusty essence, pomegranate, chocolate, black truffle, and anise.
Serving Suggestions:
This is great on its own, but also fun with charcuterie. Will age five more years if you would like to put it down to evolve further.
2018 Gallegos Pinot Noir, Boekenoogen Vineyard
Growing Region Santa Lucia Highlands, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation 25% New French Oak, 75% Neutral
Alcohol Content 14.8%
Suggested Retail $45.00
WineSellar Club Price $39.59
Broad Strokes: 95 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery: Ignacio Gallegos Sr. settled in the heart of the Napa Valley in the 1950’s and started a family legacy of farming some of the most prestigious vineyard sites in wine country. Today, his son Ignacio II, and grandsons Ignacio III and Eric continue the legacy with their vineyard management company, started in 2008. Each harvest season, grapes from vineyards they manage, and the family estate vineyard in Rutherford, are hand selected to produce the limited-production Gallegos wines. The Gallegos family truly believes that great wines begin in the vineyard, and they take pride in their meticulous farming practices: from pruning in the winter, to carefully selecting the fruit at harvest, through the winemaking process, and all the way to bottling. Only 250 cases produced!
Appearance:
Pretty much a standard looking package, but effective in terms of getting their name out there to stand out on the shelf. The wine itself is a dark Garnet, nearly black at the core and it bleeds into a bright Crimson on the edge of the glass.
Nose:
Solid and rich Pinot Noir fruit, which translates to ripe plum, jam, and black fruit aromatics. A nice whiff of vanilla is just followed up by smoke, black pepper, violets and clove. Beautiful on the nose!
Texture:
Medium to medium full in body and weight. The wine is dense and muscular, especially for a Pinot Noir. It still carries a certain elegance and softness to it, although it’s a bit edgy and youthful. You can bet this wine will definitely improve with a bit of bottle age, and it is showing well in this very youthful stage.
Flavors:
Ripe cherry and strawberry fruit flavors, with a touch of clove and vanilla oak. Look for sweet tobacco, solid wood notes, crushed black cherries, crushed strawberries, pomegranate and rhubarb pie. The finish is long, lingering, and very silky, leading to a great final impression.
Serving Suggestions:
I would sock 6-12 bottles of this in the cellar, and crack the first on in 2022. From there, I envision another 5-9 years of cellaring will make this phenomenal!
2014 Sutro Cabernet Sauvignon, Warnecke Ranch
Growing Region Alexander Valley, Sonoma County
Varietal Composition 97% Cabernet Sauvignon. 3% Merlot
Fermentation 20 Months in 17% New American Oak
Alcohol Content 14.8%
Suggested Retail 60.00
WineSellar Club Price $44.99
Broad Strokes: 92 Points Vinous, 90 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
Sutro is a limited production of premium terroir driven wine by Alice Warnecke Centro and Elliott Centro. Located in the Chalk Hill area of the Alexander Valley in Sonoma County, their wines are a true expression of the place that holds their hearts. Warnecke Vineyards are planted on Pearson on Sonoma Volcanic bed rock with Spreckels loan soils. The rows running along the bridges of the foothills of the Mayacamas mountains, down to the narrow Russian River Valley, as it makes it spread before heading west to the town of Healdsburg. It is the most exciting spot on the river.
Appearance:
This has the classic look of a California Cabernet reminds me somewhat of a Pahlmeyer package with the cut on the corners of the label. Looks good overall. The wine is nearly black and only lightly bleeds out to the edge of the glass.
Nose:
I really love Alexander Valley fruit, as it always has a great Black berry notes to it (with the nose and flavors as well). With this wine you will find some chocolate, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and a hint of pomegranate. There’s a touch of a tar and petrol (underscored) that I find very, very attractive.
Texture:
I just wanted you to note this is from the vintage of 2014. It has a nice bottle age on it, which has reduced its youthful tannins and provides a perfect enveloping fruit. It’s a great adult beverage! It still has a slightly dry and acidic/tannic finish, illustrating that it has a long life ahead of it.
Flavors:
Dark berry fruit with chocolate and blackberry. Feeling rich and deep with a perfect integration of wood notes, including smoke and vanilla. Pomegranate fruit pops through adding a slight tartness, which resolves itself into a rounded smoothness. Noting tobacco, eucalyptus, leather, root beer, cream, sassafras and melon, which is unusual for red wine.
Serving Suggestions:
Ready to go now, but can keep another 10 years.
2016 Ame de la Vigne, Le Vigne Winery, Estate
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 34% Syrah, 37% Petit, 26% Grenache, 20 Months in 17% New American Oak
Alcohol Content 14.4%
Suggested Retail $47.00
WineSellar Club Price $41.39
Broad Strokes: 92 Points Vinous, 90 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery: The Filippini family history in the Paso Robles area began in the early 1960’s when winery owner Sylvia Filippini’s family purchased the property where Le Vigne winery now stands. Hay and cattle were the main commodities until 1982, when the first grapevines were planted. That time was the catalyst for what evolved into the current Paso Robles wine region. Early on, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon were planted to supplement the growing demand of other wine growing regions like Napa and Sonoma. As the vines matured, growers and winemakers began to see real potential for the area with its unique soils, climate and coastal influence. Only 303 cases of this wine were produced for the vintage.
Appearance:
I love the soulful, personable feel the label gives you. It makes you reflect on the hard work and thought that goes into the production of a gem such as this. I also like they use “Soul of the Vineyard” as a moniker on the label. The wine looks nearly black, with dark purple hues on the rim, as the legs drip very slowly down the glass.
Nose:
Wood-smoke hovers over deep dark fruit, laced by Asian spices, bacon, leather, and more dark fruit. Very ripe black cherry, toasty wood, mixed nuts, and a touch more smoke over this lovely and complex set of aromatics.
Texture:
Juicy, full-bodied feel in the mouth, feeling tight and focused at this point. Needs to let its brash youth mature into muscle and bones, but still provides an exciting, lip-smacking liquid adventure.
Flavors:
Tasting exactly as it should, that being a Rhone style wine made in Paso Robles. Especially mirrors the Rhone in the smoky bacon. A bit of tar, strapped leather, and then the California fruits hit: very, very lively dark cherry flavors, with notes of dairy. Whole cream, caramel, roasted nuts (hazelnuts).
Serving Suggestions:
Love this wine, for BBQ’s grilled meats, and for laying in your cellar 6-10 years.
2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Di Domenico Vineyard, Le Vigne Winery, Estate
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 Months in 17% New American Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $60.00
WineSellar Club Price $42.29
Broad Strokes: 92 Points, The Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery: The Filippini family history in the Paso Robles area began in the early 1960’s when winery owner, Sylvia Filippini’s family, purchased the property where Le Vigne winery now stands. Hay and cattle were the main commodities until 1982, when the first grapevines were planted. That time was the catalyst for what evolved into the current Paso Robles wine region. Early on, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon were planted to supplement the growing demand of other wine growing regions like Napa and Sonoma. As the vines matured, growers and winemakers began to see real potential for the area with its unique soils, climate and coastal influence. Only 120 cases of this wine were produced for the vintage. NOTE the value!!!
Appearance:
I love the soulful, personable feel the label gives you. It makes you reflect on the hard work and thought that goes into the production of a gem such as this. The wine looks nearly ruby red with shades of black.
Nose:
This sturdy, brilliant, complex nose jumps from the glass with massive dark berry fruit, cumin, India spices, white pepper. Look for hints of classic Cabernet bell pepper notes, with forest floor and tree leaves.
Texture:
A rather seamless entry, with juicy, mouth-watering loveliness to be experienced. Medium to medium full in weight and body, though it really doesn’t have anything close to a heavy feel. The palate is rounded and the tannins are well melded in.
Flavors:
Seems to me all the flavors have a common theme: Balsamic . . . which is lovely! The wine keeps a lasting impression in your mouth, allowing for notes of boysenberry, Mission fig, guava, chocolate and all the while some cranberry fruit seems to hold a little tighter. Has a pleasing “dusty” character on the finish.
Serving Suggestions:
Love this wine for fine steaks, lamb dishes, and for laying down in your cellar 10-15 years.
Two Cocktails for September
Aperol Spritz
Ingredients:
Per cocktail
- Ice
- 3 ounces (1 part) Aperol
- 3 ounces (1 part) dry Prosecco
- 1 ounce (a splash) club soda or unflavored sparkling water
- Orange slice, for garnish
Process:
-
Add ice to a wine glass until it is nearly full. Pour in the Aperol (I usually eyeball this and pour until I’ve filled about one-third of the glass).
-
Pour in an equal amount of Prosecco. Top your drink off with a splash of club soda and add a slice of orange. Enjoy!
Notes:
Less Bitter: Use less Aperol and more Prosecco.
Less Boozy: Use more club soda, and less Aperol and Prosecco.
More Boozy: Add Tequila
Watermelon Tequila Cocktail
Ingredients:
- 6 cups seedless watermelon chunks
- 1/4 cup simple syrup
- 2 limes, cut into chunks
- 1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries
- 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves, plus sprigs for garnish
- 1 cup plata (silver) tequila
- Crushed ice
Process:
-
Blend watermelon in processor until smooth. Strain the juice into a bowl pressing on the pulp, then discard the solids.
-
Put the simple syrup, lime chunks, berries and mint in a pitcher and muddle until the berries are slightly crushed.
-
Add the tequila and watermelon juice and stir to combine.
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Refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour.
-
Serve over crushed ice, garnished with mint sprigs.