Wine Club Newsletter - October 2020
Glass Fire Casualties to Date
As of the morning of Wednesday, September 30, the Glass Incident Fire — which began on the Napa/Sonoma County border on Sunday, September 27 and has so far damaged or destroyed at least 114 structures, including the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood and 120,000 bottles at destination winery Castello di Amorosa — had forced the evacuation of at least 70,000 people and consumed 48,440 acres of wine country land, CalFire said in a briefing. So far, no deaths have been reported, and there have only been a “handful” of injuries to area residents. The fire is at 2 percent containment.
As the fire made its way across wine country, vintners and restaurateurs who’d fled the blaze returned the area, many of them discovering that their life’s work had been destroyed. Here’s the latest on the food and beverage businesses damaged or lost in the fire.
Behrens Family Winery: Wine Spectator spoke with general manager Schatzi Throckmorton, who says that “Our current information for Spring Mountain is that the winery at Behrens burned, but the tank barn and tasting room there are ok.”
Bremer Family Winery: The Bay Area News Group reports that their photographer saw a fully-charred vineyard, but that its historic buildings (including an 1891-vintage structure that was the original headquarters of the famous Sutter Home label) have survived.
Burgess Cellars: The Howell Mountain winery was completely destroyed, its owners tell Wine Spectator, but “damage to the vineyards was minimal.” “While we are devastated by the loss of these great heritage structures, we were heartened to hear that the vineyards were mainly spared. We look forward to many more great vintages once we can rebuild the winery,” CEO Carlton McCoy Jr. said via statement.
Calistoga Ranch: The luxury resort was “badly damaged,” SF Gate reports. State Sen. Bill Dodd tweeted photos from the scene, which depict leveled buildings and charred picnic tables. The Ranch is home to Lakehouse Restaurant, the status of which remains unknown.
Castello di Amorosa: The 13th-century–style winery in Calistoga known for its unique “castle” building lost $5 million of wine (based on 120,000 bottles) in the fire, BANG reports, but its $30 million castle remains safe.
Chateau Boswell: The winery was one of the first destroyed by the Glass Incident Fire.
Davis Estates: The heat from the flames prompted a 1,000-gallon propane tank on the property to explode, owner Mike Davis tells the Chron, but though “everything surrounding the winery” burned, the winery, itself, was saved.
Fairwinds Estate Winery: On its website, Fairwinds says that “Most of the Fairwinds Winery and its Tasting Room has been very seriously damaged by the recent Napa Valley fires. We are pleased to report our people are all safe. Our hearts go out to friends and neighbors, many of whom have lost their homes and all their belongings. This will change us, but it will not reduce us.” According to video from photojournalist Brittany Hosea-Small, it appears completely leveled.
Hourglass Winery: Wine Spectator reports that the proudly “anti-Napa” winery has “extensive damage.” An Instagram post from the winery shows a completely demolished building, and says that “our Blueline Estate was unfortunately in nature’s furious path,” and owner Jeff Smith tells KPIX that its winery facility and 162-year-old guest house were lost.
Hunnicutt Wines: The SF Chronicle reports that “much of its winemaking equipment” was lost, but that its winery building is safe.
Meadowood Resort: The building that housed the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood, the Grill at Meadowood, and a golf shop has burned to the ground, prompting a flood of social media grief. Co-owner Bill Harlan said that “We have to find something positive out of all of this. This gives us the opportunity to rebuild this better than before,” a spokesperson tells ABC 7, but executive chef Christopher Kostow tells the Chron “It’s weird that it’s all gone. It’s all rendered futile.” Food critic Soleil Ho worries that its loss is the end of an era, saying “As wildfires become more of a yearly reality in the region, it’s hard to say if anyone will ever want to risk opening another restaurant as ambitious as the one at Meadowood, only to receive ashes in return.”
Merus Wines: “One of our production outbuildings at Merus was destroyed, as was one of the two residences on the property. We also lost some farming vehicles,” a spokesperson tells WS. “The winery building is damaged but still intact. There was a small wooden bridge that ran from our parking lot to the winery building that went up in flames. It looks like Cal Fire made a stand there and saved the winery building. Our generator is up and running, and we are going to try to resume operations at some point today after we get things cleaned up.”
Newton Vineyard: The Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) owned winery “was significantly impacted, Wine Spectator reports, with a spokesperson saying that the company “intends to do whatever it takes to rebuild this truly special place.”
Paloma: Sheldon Richards, who owns the Spring Mountain winery, tells WS that he believes the property has been completely destroyed, but that he was forced to flee on Sunday night.
Sherwin Family Vineyards: According to the Chron, the 24-year-old family-owned winery was destroyed.
Spring Mountain Vineyard: Its main winery and mansion, which the Chron reminds us was featured in 1980s soap Falcon Crest, is safe, but its vineyard and an 1873-era winery were lost.
Sterling Vineyards: A statement from owner Treasury Wine Estates confirmed “that video footage on social media appears to show Sterling Vineyards suffering fire damage, but that the property is currently evacuated and the damage has yet to be assessed,” WS reports.
Tofanelli Vineyards: Owner Vince Tofanelli tells the SF Chronicle that he believes that “many of the grapevines, planted in 1929,” were lost, as was a 120-year-old barn and the winery’s (currently unoccupied) family home.
Tuck Beckstoffer Vineyards: Owner Tuck Beckstoffer tells WS that “we saved the winery last night, but everything else was lost.”
According to the Napa County Office of Emergency Services, there are 64 total wineries within the evacuation zone, a significant percentage of Napa Valley’s 400 (or so) total wineries or tasting rooms. As of Wednesday morning, a total of 22,553 homes, restaurants, and other businesses remain at risk.
2019 Malvasia, Verbo, Cantina de Venosa
Growing Region Basilicata, Venosa, Italy
Varietal Composition 100% Malvasia de Basilicata
Fermentation Stainless Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content 12.5%
Suggested Retail $24.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Venosa is a beautiful ancient village in southern Italy, rich in history, culture and art. 800 acres of gentle hills surround Cantina de Venosa, where luxurious volcanic soil and a dry micro-climate work in harmony to produce some of Italy’s finest Malvasia de Basilicata grapes. In Fall, the vineyards are meticulously harvested by hand, with the utmost care. The grapes are then transported to our famous cellar for maceration, fermentation and aging. Founded in 1957 by 27 promoting members, thanks to the will, the perseverance, the capability to associate of this vine-growers group, Cantina di Venosa nowadays is an association of 400 members with about 800 hectares of vineyards, most of which are in the Venosa Commune.
Appearance:
Good looking package with my beloved clear bottle. Easy to read label (except for “Cantina di Venosa”). I like the full shoulder bottle, and even the clear label on the back. The wine has a vibrant, shimmering, solid yellow hue, kind of like the inside of a Casaba melon, which is actually present in the flavor profile.
Nose:
Fruity, floral, fresh Malvasia fruit springs from the glass. Notes of honey and beeswax are countered by a mineral dustiness. Fine notes of tropical fruit, especially passion fruit, with white peach, orange blossom.
Texture:
Great acidity and balance
Medium to medium full in body and weight. It almost gives out a sweet impression, but the great acidity and balance counters any chance the wine would come off flabby. Fresh, ripe fruit impressions resolve to a clean, long, lingering finish.
Flavors:
A veritable mélange of tropical fruits, with papaya, mango, and of course the passion fruit found in the aromatics. The mid-palate imparts white peach, as well as the Casaba melon. Solid vanilla and orange wrap up the firm, crisp. Mineral like finish.
Serving Suggestions:
This is a great aperitif wine, to go with fruits and cheeses.
2017 Aglianico del Vulture, Verbo, Cantina di Venosa
Growing Region Basilicata, Venosa, Italy
Varietal Composition 100% Aglianico del Vulture
Fermentation 12 Months Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $24.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: This is Aglianico del Vulture , a D.O.C. wine with more than 2000 years of history which represents the perfect marriage between the rich structure of a volcanic soil (Aglianico is in fact the volcano on the soil of which most of the Aglianico grapes are grown) and the lucky exposure of the gentle Venosa Hills. Venosa, a town rich in history and art, and proud for the many monuments dating back to Roman times. Here, in Venosa, there is one of the most renowned wine businesses of Southern Italy: CANTINA DI VENOSA. Founded in 1957 by 27 promoting members, thanks to the will, the perseverance, the capability to associate of this vine-growers group, Cantina di Venosa nowadays is an association of 400 members with about 800 hectares of vineyards, making us the largest producer of Aglianico grapes, in the Vulture area.
Appearance:
Good looking package with an easy to read label (except for “Cantina di Venosa”). I like the full shoulder bottle, and how strongly the word “VERBO” stands out. The wine has intense ruby red color with hints of garnet, bleeding lighter to the edge of the bowl.
Nose:
A solid concentration of red fruits, such as ripe cherry and raspberry, and even red licorice. Indian spices, black pepper meld into vanilla, chocolate and even an edgy note of road tar, which I found quite enticing.
Texture:
When young, these wines are noted for their high tannins and acidity and dark-fruit concentration. This extended growing season (coupled with the grape variety's particular balance of acids, sugars and tannins) makes the wines full in body, deep in color and rich in flavor. I barely noticed the 14.5% alcohol.
Flavors:
The wine takes on nuances of earth, tar, spice, black cherry and dark chocolate. With time they merge, becoming complex and refined. Delicate blackcurrant fruits notes of strawberry, raspberry and cherry liqueur.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine will age for a decade, and drinks lovely now with pastas.
2017 Peake Ranch Pinot Noir
Growing Region Santa Rita Hills, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation 18 Months 100% French Oak, 50% New
Alcohol Content 14.1%
Suggested Retail $40.00
WineSellar Club Price $35.99
Broad Strokes: 93 Points, Jeb Dunnick
From the Winery: “Our connection with the Santa Barbara wine world began about ten years ago and has grown stronger ever since.
We fell in love with the beautiful countryside, the amazing hospitality of ‘wine’ people and, of course, the wonderful wine made in this magical region.
Our commitment to the area was sealed when we purchased Peake Ranch and decided we wanted to build a winery and a small house on the property.
Peake Ranch has a wonderful history full of special people who roamed the land. We respect that legacy and plan to honor it in every way we can; from the way we grow our grapes, to the people we surround ourselves with and the hospitality we plan to extend. We are excited to become part of a very special community.
Appearance:
The design on the label is quite nice, distinctive and interesting. It’s a shame it kind of fades out unless you study it. Ditto the font for Peake Ranch, Pinot Noir and the vintage are not easy to see. The wine is though! Quite dark for a Pinot Noir, shades of ruby and dark grey.
Nose:
Solid, rich and powerful Pinot Noir essence emanates a couple inches above the glass. Ripe plum, black cherry, black raspberry, ground herbs, and an enchanting, flowery perfume, much like rose petals.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in body and weight, it is heavier than your standard Pinot Noir. However, this one is pulled of expertly, with well-integrated acids, that nice silky texture we get from Pinot Noir.
Flavors:
Very ripe plum, and fresh black cherry fruit is forward and engaging, lightly stewed fruits of black raspberries, strawberries are wrapped in vanilla and lively spices. Also, traces of leather and mahogany-like wood notes.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine has at least a decade+ of life in it, so put 6-12 away in the cellar.
2017 Peake Ranch, Bellis Noir
Growing Region Santa Rita Hills, California
Varietal Composition 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache
Fermentation 18 Months 100% French Oak, 50% New
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $40.00
WineSellar Club Price $35.99
Broad Strokes: 94 Points, Jeb Dunnick, Wine Enthusiast and Antonio Galloni
From the Winery: “Our connection with the Santa Barbara wine world began about ten years ago and has grown stronger ever since.
We fell in love with the beautiful countryside, the amazing hospitality of ‘wine’ people and, of course, the wonderful wine made in this magical region.
Our commitment to the area was sealed when we purchased Peake Ranch and decided we wanted to build a winery and a small house on the property.
Peake Ranch has a wonderful history full of special people who roamed the land. We respect that legacy and plan to honor it in every way we can; from the way we grow our grapes, to the people we surround ourselves with and the hospitality we plan to extend. We are excited to become part of a very special community.
Appearance:
The design on the label is quite nice, distinctive and interesting. It’s a shame it kind of fades out unless you study it. Ditto the font for Peake Ranch, Pinot Noir and the vintage are not easy to see. The wine is opaque, with red/blue/purple hues.
Nose:
Rich and rounded ripe cherry fruit, with forest floor, a crush of fresh herbs, red licorice and sweet vanilla oak. As it opens, the aromatics become more varied, and reveal black and white pepper, mint, and a touch of “animal”.
Texture:
Full in body and weight, it is appropriate for the genre. Like the nose, the texture needs some time to round out. It is expansive, to say the least. It has lots of youthful energy, all in balance and check, this young, muscular brute will put on a dress after an hour of air.
Flavors:
Exciting mash of blue and black fruits: boysenberry, blueberry, black raspberry, and black plum. Tertiary notes (after airing) include graphite, fennel, smoke, vanilla oak, Indian spices, sage, and one of my favorites, road tar!
Serving Suggestions:
This wine has at least a long life ahead of it, and I strongly urge you to sock away 6-12 bottles for your cellar, Drink from 2025-2030, Thank me then!
2016 Syrah, Thompson Vineyard, Four Brothers
Growing Region Santa Barbara County
Varietal Composition 100% Syrah
Fermentation 22 Months Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.2%
Suggested Retail $55.00
WineSellar Club Price $31.49
Broad Strokes
From the Winery: We are a boutique, family run business. We are committed to bringing you the highest quality wines sourced from the most in demand vineyards the Central Coast has to offer. We thrive to bring you wines that excel in quality and please the palate. We are a passionate group of brothers that come from a family built off Love. The love for travel, love for adventure, love for hard work and competition, but most importantly, the love for our friends and family. Having Four Boys in the family, it can get very competitive, I can’t tell you how many black eyes and broken bones has made us who we are today. “Our poor mother”, but at the end of the day, we are brothers, thick as thieves, stronger than any bond. Who understand how important it is to have family, friends, good humor, and a passion for life. We are so excited to share this adventure with old friends and new friends to come. Four Brothers Wine Company, not just a wine, it’s a lifestyle…
Appearance:
Somewhat standard general image of the label. I think they could have done something more dramatic, worthy of their story/theme, which I like a lot. The wine is grey/black at the core, with a slight color dispersion of garnet/crimson out to the edge of the bowl.
Nose:
Classic Syrah nose, featuring dark and red fruits, black olive, forest floor, olive, underbrush and fresh herbs. Good wood treatment coming through, with nuances of black and white pepper, and a creamy vanilla.
Texture:
Just a shade over what I would call medium in weight. The entry has a controlled assertiveness, with subtle but bracing power. The bright feel is imprisoned by tactile acids, I love it! Lip-smacking creaminess.
Flavors:
Skin on black cherry fruit is what I get foist off. Notes of strawberry, violets, flowery perfume (roses), a taste of cola/root beer, and then a nice dairy/creamy taste. All enclosed in this tight ship, Lovely!
Serving Suggestions:
This wine has at least a decade of life in it, but enjoy it with a rack of lamb!
2017 Grenache, Watch Hill Vineyard, Four Brothers
Growing Region Santa Barbara County
Varietal Composition 100% Grenache
Fermentation Neutral Oak Fermentation, 10 Months
Alcohol Content 14.2%
Suggested Retail $36.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes: Only 55 Cases Made!!
From the Winery: We are a boutique, family run business. We are committed to bringing you the highest quality wines sourced from the most in demand vineyards the Central Coast has to offer. We thrive to bring you wines that excel in quality and please the palate of any wine consumer. We are a passionate group of brothers that come from a family built off Love. The love for travel, love for adventure, love for hard work and competition, but most importantly, the love for our friends and family.
Having Four Boys in the family, it can get very competitive, I can’t tell you how many black eyes and broken bones has made us who we are today. “Our poor mother”, but at the end of the day, we are brothers, thick as thieves, stronger than any bond. Who understand how important it is to have family, friends, good humor, and a passion for life. We are so excited to share this adventure with old friends and new friends to come.
Four Brothers Wine Company, not just a wine, it’s a lifestyle…
Appearance:
Somewhat standard general image of the label. I think they could have done something more dramatic, worthy of their story/theme, which I like a lot. The wine is like a dull crimson, clear and light all the way though.
Nose:
Lovely flower like fragrance makes its way up the glass, revealing dried rose petals, red currants, strawberry, red licorice and ripe plum. There is a layer of smoke, candied fruit, eucalyptus and sage.
Texture:
Much like a Pinot Noir in fee. Initially it seems light, but the flavor and weight of the wine are surprisingly rich and lengthy, especially when you judge it by the appearance. Anyway, I really like it!
Flavors:
The strawberry, ripe plum and red currant flavors make for a gorgeous fruit character. Some peppermint, herbs (sage), black tea, candied fruit, orange rind and a touch of smoke are waiting to be discovered. Enjoy it!
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is drinking well now, and I suggest milder red wine oriented dishes to go with it.
2010 Schramsberg, J Schramm, Brut, North Coast, CA
Varietal Composition: 84% Chardonnay 16% Pinot Noir (Principally Carneros fruit from Schwarze, Hudson and Hyde Vineyards with a significant contribution from Keefer Ranch in the Russian River Valley)
Vinification: Both oak and stainless-steel fermentation
Dosage: 0.95 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.4%
Suggested Retail: $120
WineSellar Club Price: $98.99
97 points Wine Enthusiast
96 Guide to California Wine
93 points Wine & Spirits
93 pts Robert Parker
93 points Wine Spectator
This edition of your Sparkling Champagne Club is extremely special, there is one bottle, but it is a fabulous one! This is Schramsberg’s top cuvee! It is amazingly complex and a treat for us to share a 10-year-old sparkling wine from one of America’s favorite sparkling wine houses with you!
From the Winery:
J Schramm represents 3% of the winery’s annual production, the Chardonnay focused the Chardonnay-focused J. Schram blend is assembled from the very best base wine lots of the approximately 300 produced each year. This special bottling is dedicated to Schramsberg’s founder, Jacob Schram, and has been a great success since its premier
1987 vintage was released in 1992.
Appearance:
Rich and golden in color
Nose:
Toasted baguette, marzipan, crème brulee, green apple, grilled pineapple, and candied ginger
Texture:
The bead is very fine and luxurious
Flavors:
The palate is full of baked apple, Meyer lemon, sweet lime, graham cracker, cinnamon spice and driven by a fresh acidity.
Spicy Chicken
This dish will go with a number of our October Wine Club selections, including the Malvasia. Serves four people. Enjoy!
Ingredients:
- 4 chicken thighs with skin and bones
- 2 chicken breasts with skin and bones, halved crosswise
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3 tablespoons Chili Oil, recipe follows
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 1/2 cup kalamata olives, pitted, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 cup pitted, coarsely chopped green olives
- 4 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
- 1 1/2 tablespoons drained capers
- 2/3 cup dry white wine
Chili Oil:
- 2 cups of olive oil
- 4 teaspoons dried crushed red pepper flakes
Method:
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Sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper.
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Heat the oil in a heavy large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side.
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Remove the skillet from the heat. Stir in the garlic, olives, 3 tablespoons of parsley and capers.
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Add the wine. Bring to a boil.
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Reduce the heat to medium-low.
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Cover and simmer until the chicken is just cooked through, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes.
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Transfer the chicken mixture to a platter.
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Spoon the chili oil over.
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Sprinkle with the remaining 1tablespoon of parsley and serve.
Method for Chili Oil:
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Combine the oil and crushed red pepper flakes in a heavy small saucepan.
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Cook over low heat until a thermometer inserted into the oil registers 180 degrees F, about 5 minutes.
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Remove from heat.
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Cool to room temperature, about 2 hours.
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Transfer the oil and pepper flakes to a 4-ounce bottle.
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Seal the lid. Refrigerate up to 1 month.