Wine Club Newsletter - December 2020
Climate Change is Threatening World’s Wine Supply
By Harry Petit, The Sun
Here is an interesting piece of journalism to consider. I am not trying to make a political statement, just want you to be aware that many of the winegrowers and producers tell me they believe in and are responding to what they believe is a warming of our planet: (GP)
You may be forced to pay more for your favorite wines if climate change continues.
That’s the shock warning issued by scientists this week, who said rising global temperatures could wipe out 85 percent of the world’s wine-growing regions.
This mass loss of vineyards would likely trigger a global wine shortage, driving up prices for reds and whites the world over.
The international team of scientists said their work highlighted “the critical role that human decisions play in building agricultural systems resilient to climate change.”
In a research paper published Monday, researchers described how they investigated the climate suitability of 11 varieties of wine grapes.
Those grapes account for a third of the area planted globally and are prominent in many important wine countries such as France, Australia, New Zealand and Chile.
Computer models showed that global warming of 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit — a rise the world is on track to exceed — would incinerate 56 percent of land used to grow wine worldwide.
Heating of 7.2 degrees Fahrenheit, a realistic prospect this century, would threaten up to 85 percent of wine-growing regions.
Extra heat might damage delicate plants, or speed up ripening and make the grapes too high in sugar, researchers said.
However, planting different grape varieties or quantities could significantly cut losses, said the new study.
Switching to varieties that are more tolerant to heat could cut the loss of growing areas to 24 percent from 56 percent under an average global temperature rise of 2C from preindustrial times and to 58 percent from 85 percent with a 4C increase, they found.
In France’s Burgundy region, currently cultivated varieties like pinot noir could be replaced with the heat-loving Mourvedre and Grenache, they said.
Cooler wine-growing regions such as Germany, New Zealand and the US Pacific Northwest could also become suitable for grapes that thrive in warmer climates.
But top producers Italy, Spain and Australia — which are already hot — face the largest losses, they added.
Some big winegrowers, particularly in Australia and California, also are facing losses of vineyards to worsening wildfires, as climate change brings hotter and drier conditions.
John Handmer, a Canberra-based science advisor for the International Institute for Applied Systems Analysis, said recent bushfires in Australia meant some vineyards were not just damaged but “gone” — and could take years to re-establish.
That would impact not only agricultural earnings — already hard-hit by drought in Australia — but also tourism in wine-growing areas, he added.
Ignacio Morales-Castilla, lead author of the new study, said the research showed there was still an opportunity to adapt viticulture and agriculture to climate pressures.
“But we need to be aware that the more warming there is, the less chances we have to adapt,” said Morales-Castilla, from Spain’s University of Alcala.
Diversifying into different grape varieties can help, he said — but once warming tops 2C, it becomes a less effective strategy the hotter the climate gets.
The world has already warmed by just over 1C.
In addition, vineyards must overcome regulatory, financial and cultural hurdles to switch varieties, warned the study.
“There is attachment of some growers to given varieties that were grown (there) for centuries… and shifting or abandoning that variety is not going to be easy,” said Morales-Castilla.
He said he hoped many more local varieties suitable for growing in hotter temperatures could be identified, as the study only looked at 11 varieties from a global total of about 1,100.
The research was published in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.
2018 Captûre, Sauvignon Blanc, “Tradition”
Growing Region Pine Mountain, Cloverdale Peak AVA, Ca.
Varietal Composition 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation Stainless Steel Tanks, 10 Months Sur Lie
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $27.50
WineSellar Club Price $21.59
Broad Strokes: Jeb Dunnuck 91 Points, Robert Parker 90 Points
Remote, rugged, and extreme, Captûre’s Pine Mountain estate vineyard straddles the peak – a jaw-dropping 3,000 feet above sea level. Miles of unspoiled mountains, valleys and farmland stretch out below; above, there is only sky. The windswept mountaintop is like a moonscape, parched, and dry with fine volcanic gravel and rocky patches offering no traction for anything but desert brush and the hardiest grapevines.
These brutal growing conditions naturally keep yields at just two tons per acre, pouring intense color and concentration into the fruit. This desolate place is planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller blocks of Merlot and the United States’ highest elevation Sauvignon Blanc. We are just beginning to chart this land of the unknown, but it’s already clear that this wild peak produces wines with uncommon character, grace, and stamina.
Appearance:
As you probably know by now, I love the clear bottle for white wines. Adding to the attraction I have for the package, the brush stroke image of their mountain is a thing of beauty and a great marketing statement. The wine is quite clear, with a hint of straw and pea green hues.
Nose:
Out of the chute, I got a strong, enticing scent of gooseberry. That captivating aromatic was followed up with notes of kiwi, grass clippings, kumquat, fresh peach, lemon citrus, and a mix of fresh herbs.
Texture:
Medium in body, the fresh cleanliness and purity of the wine stands chest out. The fruit wraps around your palate (and senses) provoking you to take another sip, which I did and continue to do. The finish is clean and long, as you would expect from the great entry.
Flavors:
One thing I didn’t get from the nose, but did on the palate was ripe fig. Going back, I think I can detect it on the nose now. Anyway, that’s exquisite. The peaches are now white peaches, no grass clipping in the palate, but nice lemon citrus and the gooseberry thing.
Serving Suggestions:
What a great value, and a superb wine to enjoy with or without food. Classy, brilliant!
2017 Chateau L’Ermitage, Costieres de Nimes
Growing Region Costieres de Nimes, France
Varietal Composition 40% Mourvedre, 40% Syrah, 20% Grenache
Fermentation 30 Months in Neutral French Barrels
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $20.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Traces of the Vineyard date back in the 12th century. L'Ermitage of Costières produced wine for the pilgrims of Saint Jacques de Compostelle. The first cellar of Château l'Ermitage was built early 1800 by the hermits of Sainte Cécile d'Estagel Abbay. It is situated on the pilgrimage route of Santiago de Compostella. The estate's total surface covers 80 hectares of sunny south facing vineyards, which benefit from the airy Mediterranean climate.
This is the third generation of the Castillon Family who succeeds to the Chateau l’Ermitage. Today, Michel and his son Jerome strive to share their passion for the vineyards and their winemaking to your table.
The vineyard of Château l'Ermitage is located on deep soils of sandstone of the Rhone. It has a southern exposure, overlooking the Camargue. In summer it enjoys a marine microclimate, this sea breeze helps preserve the freshness of wine and increase the aromatic palette of grape varieties.
Appearance:
I think this is a great looking package. I love the very dark blue screw cap/foil combo. I also really like the font and distinct label, as well as some (limited) info on the back. And the really cool family coat of arms! The color of the wine is dark cherry skin, even throughout.
Nose:
So very Rhone like in its fragrances, a classic Costieres de Nimes! Look for hot stones, mineral, black fruits, cassis and berries, earthiness, black pepper, and abundance of fresh herbs, as well as some chocolate and coffee.
Texture:
Medium in body, the wine has a delicate feel but is a bit more masculine in the flavor department. It expands as you have it in your mouth and swallow as well. Even, balanced, and a lovely savory feel to it.
Flavors:
I get a lot of red licorice on the fore palate, with coffee, fresh herbs, stones and minerals aligning with the red and dark fruits. And from the nose, chocolate, earthiness and cassis.
Serving Suggestions:
Drinking beautifully now, it excels with food, and is recommended to drink slightly cooled.
2017 Cloak & Dagger “Subterfuge”
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Malbec
Fermentation 22 Months French & American Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $49.00
WineSellar Club Price $35.99
Broad Strokes: 65 Cases Produced, we purchased 23 of them!
Tongue in cheek humor comes along with stunning wines from the Cloak & Dagger troupe. The line of humor and irreverence is carried throughout their line-up of wines, to include: The Conspirator, The Assassin, The Defector, to name a few. Here is what they say:
“Welcome to Cloak & Dagger Wines, where operational security is a very high priority – almost as high as making excellent wine. If you are not using a secure server with military grade encryption, please log off now and exercise more caution in the future.
At Cloak & Dagger Wines, we conspire to produce exceptional wines in extremely limited quantities. Our wines are handcrafted in secret at The Undisclosed Location. The exact coordinates of The Undisclosed Location are classified and attempting to locate it would be highly ill-advised. However, we now offer tasting at a minimum-security location in Paso Robles. Unofficially, we refer to this location as The Tasting Room.”
Appearance:
Staying with the Cloak & Dagger theme, cool black & white photo of “cloak” in the wine cellar. Thick, heavy bottle with a black/dark color theme. The wine is dark at the core, bleeding out to a pretty rose petal hue on the edge of the bowel.
Nose:
Lacing the red and black fruit aromatics: toasted wood, chestnut, toasted pine nuts, cranberry, pomegranate, leather, coffee, smoke, orange citrus and chocolate.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in body, complete with a generous fruit-laden entry to the palate. It has a lovely, enveloping smoothness, allowing for a rich and creamy feel, as well as a multilayered experience.
Flavors:
Chocolate ice cream topped with raspberries and blackberries. Ripe plum on the side. Dark fruit preserves, with a hint of rhubarb and cranberry. Sweet mince pie, beefy, some pie dough, wood, hint of smoke . . . it’s wild and lovely!
Serving Suggestions:
The Cloak & Dagger wines generally age pretty well, and this can keep 7-10 years. Fab now!
2017 Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon, “Trueman”
Growing Region McLaren Vale, South Australia
Varietal Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation New & Old French Barrels
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $80.00
WineSellar Club Price $59.39
Broad Strokes: 94 Points Suckling, 93 Points Robert Parker, 92 Wine Spectator
First planted in 1971 to dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard sits in the hills of Clarendon, at the upper limit of Australia’s revered McLaren Vale winegrowing region. The vineyard produced fruit for many of Australia’s iconic producers like Penfolds, Hardy’s, and Clarendon Hills, and not bottled under its own label until 2012.
The confluence of the hills, ocean and ancient earth: the vineyard sits atop a 75 million-year-old geology. It has a strong influence on the style of wines made here. Under the helm of winemakers Christopher Carpenter and Peter Fraser, and viticulturer Michael Lane, Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard employs organic and biodynamic farming practices to produce a range of highly distinctive and powerful red wines. It is complemented by a highly acclaimed lineup that has garnered attention from global critics and drawn eyes to Clarendon as a region producing some of Australia’s most celebrated wines.
Appearance:
The bottle has a nice tall, slender profile with a long neck, as I once did. It is a bit difficult to read the font on the front label, which is unfortunate, as they have a number of different releases all with the same artwork. The wine itself is gorgeous, with a nearly black center that bleeds out to a dark plum skin coloring.
Nose:
Classic, sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon nose. Ripe red/black fruits with cherry, sweet vanilla oak, blueberries, cola and chocolate. A mash of fresh herbs, parsley and oregano, with tobacco and a hint of anise.
Texture:
Pretty full bodied wine, but not excessive in any way. Nearly texturally perfect I might say. It enters full, juicy and lush, and is relatively seamless in its balance of fruit and acid. Velvet.
Flavors:
Under the ample fruit, I found a meaningful note of earthiness, with tobacco, fresh herbs and mineral, leading to long term, advanced complexities. On top of all this, are the sexy, sensual dark fruits, melded with wood treatment, leaving that velvety finish to a perfectly long, magnificent decadent, taste of how great the fermented fruit can be.
Serving Suggestions:
Get 6-12 bottles and put it away. It will be a classic in 10-20 years!!!
2015 La Voix, “So What”
Growing Region Rancho San Ysidro, Ballard Canyon, California
Varietal Composition 100% Syrah
Fermentation 30 Months in Neutral French Barrels
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $42.00
WineSellar Club Price $34.19
Broad Strokes: 91 Points Wine Enthusiast, 122 Cases produced
Steve Clifton, in partnership with Greg Brewer, Brewer Clifton, invigorated the area between Solvang and Lompoc that would later earn AVA status as Sta. Rita Hills with vineyard-specific bottlings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In addition to these two projects, Steve’s winemaking talent has been employed by dozens of successful wineries throughout the region.
Now, with the launch of La Voix, Clifton’s first solo project dedicated exclusively to French varieties, he’s hoping to shake up the status quo again. This time, by letting the voice of each wine take center stage – with strong backup from Steve to guide them to their fullest expression.
Appearance:
The artist for the label sensed the color blue with this project, so he directed his creativity to the great jazz album, Kind of Blue. The first song on it is called So What, so there we have it. Pulsating image on the front label, good information of the back, and a blue finish on the cork. The wine is dark red, with gray undercoating.
Nose:
Assertive and lively aromatics that are spicy (cinnamon) and intriguing. Raspberry, ripe, dark plum and black cherry abound. A hint of menthol and fresh herbs, like oregano and sage.
Texture:
Crisp, biting acidity is the initial impression, but quickly rounds out to feeling just slightly tart, yet also juicy in your mouth. Mouth watering for sure, and it feels fresh, especially for a 2015 vintage.
Flavors:
Skin and meat of black plum, with black raspberries and black cherries. Wood notes are reflected in roasted nuts, smoke, and a hint of vanilla. The spices come through, noting cinnamon and nutmeg, and a touch of balsamic makes for a more rounded finish.
Serving Suggestions:
OK, so this wine is technically five years old, but still holds youthful acidity and brightness. The wine has another 7-10 years to go, and if you like, is excellent the second day opened.
2014 Gusbourne, Blanc de Blancs, Sparkling Wine, England
Growing Region: Gusbourne Estate in Kent, England
Varietal Composition: 100% Chardonnay
Vinification: 42 months on the lees
Dosage: 9 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $83.00
WineSellar Club Price: $71.09
95 pts Wine Enthusiast, 94 pts Decanter
I am thrilled to share a delicious and exciting wine from England with you! I visited Gusbourne a few years ago on the hunt for delicious English Fizz (the phrase they are often using to playfully describe themselves) and I was extremely impressed! We think you will start seeing more English Fizz in the US market (so much that Gary and Lori are adding a
trip in between their Fall Rhone Trips!). Enjoy! – Bridget West
From the Winery:
Gusbourne takes the name of the winery from John Goosebourne owner of the estate back in 1410. In 2004 current owner Dr. Andrew Weeber planted vines with the vision to make sparkling wine that would compete against sparkling wine across the world. Gusbourne only makes vintage sparkling wine.It was served at the Opening Party for the 2012 London Olympics. Gusbourne wines are also served in the Royal Households…Buckingham Palace for visiting Heads of State.
Appearance:
Pale lemon hue
Nose:
Toasted sourdough bread, blanched almonds, lemon zest, green apples
Texture:
Full steady bead of precise bubbles
Flavors:
Crisp green apples, pears, lemon, brioche and hazelnuts Gorgeous salinity on the finish.
This sparkling is poised and elegant!
Serving Suggestions:
Perfection with oysters! Pour a glass for your viewing of The Crown!
Contadi Castaldi, Rose, Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy
Growing Region: Lombardy, Italy
Varietal Composition: 65% Chardonnay 35% Pinot Nero
Vinification: Aged partly in steel and partly barrique, 30 months on the lees
Dosage: 5g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $33.00
WineSellar Club Price: $29.69
93 pts James Suckling, 90 pts Robert Parker
With the holidays on our heels we thought the Rose Franciacorta would be fun and festive, especially for anyone celebrating Italian style!
From the Winery:
In the 1980’s when the Franciacorta region was at peak development
Vittorio and Mariella Moretti decided to convert their brickyard into a winery. Its large space and tunnels proved the perfect place to age Franciacorta.
Appearance:
Pale pink with copper highlights
Nose:
Fresh rose petals, pink grapefruit, berries, peaches, and apples
Texture:
Fine and persistent bubbles
Flavors:
Alluring. Strawberries, blood oranges, pink grapefruit, rose petals and pink peppercorns.
Structured, crisp, and lively with a long and balanced finish.
Serving Suggestions:
Try this lovely sparkling wine with your holiday dinner….spiced ham and carrots roasted and glazed with pink peppercorns and blood oranges!
Buttery Asparagus, Leeks and Peas
Through the holiday season, sometimes we tire of cooking all day and night. I know I am feeling that after cooking our Thanksgiving spread, and cleaning up after making a gallon of turkey stock afterwards.
So, I thought we might enjoy an easy to make side dish that takes only minutes to cook, yet turns out a green, tasty, refreshing medley. Enjoy!
Ingredients:
- 7 ounces butter, cubed
- 2 Fresh leeks, cleaned and sliced into thumb-sized rounds
- 1 Pound of asparagus, cut into ½ inch chunks
- 10 ounces of fresh peas
- 1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice
- ½ small pack of fresh mint, leaves picked
Method:
-
Bring 4-5 ounces of water to a simmer in a saucepan.
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Add a pinch of salt and whisk in the butter.
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Drop in the leeks, cook for 2 minutes.
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Add the asparagus and peas, and cook for 2 minutes more.
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Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice and mint.
To Serve:
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Remove the vegetables from the emulsion with a slotted spoon.
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Spoon over some of the buttery poaching juices.
Options:
- You could put the butter in the pan first and brown it, and then add the water and follow the Method and Serving instructions. If you did this, I would use Sage instead of Mint.