Wine Club Newsletter - May 2021
A Closer Look at Wine Additives
Experts believe winemaking began in Northern China around 7000 B.C. Archaeologists, sifting through the ruins of an ancient civilization called Jiahu, uncovered grape seeds and pots lined with tartaric acid, the main acid in wine grapes.
Shortly after the origin of winemaking, wine additives made their way into history. In 4100 B.C., Persians started using pine resin to keep their wine from spoiling. The ancient Greeks mixed their wine with perfumes, herbs, brines, and even seawater in attempts to improve flavor, and the ancient Romans were the first to add sulfites to wine.
Today, wine additives are commonplace in much of the industrial winemaking world. Additives offer winemakers unprecedented control over nearly every aspect of the winemaking process. There are additives for color, texture, flavor, sweetness, clarity, fermentation speed, and more.
There’s also an ongoing debate among winemakers: are additives a mark of technological progress, to be welcomed into winemaking? Or are they shortcuts that produce inferior wine?
Perhaps most importantly, are wine additives safe for us to drink?
WHY WINE ADDITIVES MATTER
Wine additives do a variety of things that make wine production easier. In the United States there are 76 winemaking additives approved by the FDA[*], while the European Union allows 59 additives. Included among those additives are:
Fining agents that reduce wine’s haziness and make it less bitter
Defoaming agents that prevent wine from foaming
Preservatives that prevent wine from spoiling
Fermentation enhancers that speed up and standardize the fermentation process
Colorants that change a wine’s color
Enrichment agents that change a wine’s flavor
Additives provide winemakers with a great deal of control over every step of the winemaking process. They’re most popular with big, industrial producers who want to make the same wine, bottle after bottle and year after year. However, many smaller producers also use additives.
Additives can save harvests from problems with fermentation or aging. They can also improve the profile of wine that doesn’t turn out quite how the winemaker wants.
But, while they have undeniable benefits for winemakers when it comes to ease of production, there are three things to consider when talking about additives:
TRANSPARENCY
In virtually every other consumable good industry—food, beauty, personal care products—ingredient lists are mandatory. You can look at the label and know exactly what you’re getting.
But because wine is taxed as alcohol, not food, the government doesn’t require producers to disclose ingredients.
The one exception is sulfites, and that labeling doesn’t mean much, because virtually every wine in the world contains some amount of sulfites (they are naturally occurring in wine).
Because winemakers don’t have to disclose ingredients, you never know what’s in your wine. That’s an issue in certain situations. For example:
Mega Purple, a type of super-concentrated grape juice, is a common additive that improves the color and body of red wine. It also stains your teeth and increases wine’s sugar content quite a bit if it’s added after fermentation.
It’s good to have transparency in ingredients. You want to know exactly what you’re putting in your body, and when it comes to the wine industry, you typically don’t. Even high-end wines often contain additives.
PURITY
Another important factor to consider is how additives affect you.
Overall, there is very little research surrounding wine additives and their effects on human health. And, because wine companies are not required to disclose their additive content, you have no way of knowing what additives you’ve consumed.
For example, dimethyl dicarbonate (DMDC), also called Velcorin, is a stabilizer some producers add to wine in order to control fermentation. DMDC is strongly toxic to humans in its raw form.
As a general principle, we think it’s best to approach wine like its food: the fewer additives, the better.
QUALITY
The third issue with wine additives is their impact on a wine’s quality.
Most established wine tasters will be able to tell you if a wine had grape juice concentrate mixed with it.
They can distinguish between the shallow flavor of oak chips and the rich depth that comes from aging wine in oak barrels. They can taste the difference between wine fermented with wild, native yeasts, versus wine fermented with commercial added yeast.
Additives remove Nature’s influence, giving winemakers extraordinary control over their final product. Additives speed up and standardize the winemaking process, but in doing so, they remove a wine’s soul.
You can taste the difference right away when you try a glass of Natural Wine (wine that has not been manipulated with additives).
The wine is alive. It holds within a story about the year it was made: the changing seasons, the richness of the soil, the careful harmony between the winemaker and Nature herself.
You never know quite what you’ll get when you open a bottle of Natural Wine. Natural Wines trade standardization for personality and purity—which, in our opinion, is a trade worth making.
2019 Union Sacre Belle de Nuit, Gewurztraminer
Growing Region Los Ositis Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, California
Varietal Composition 100% Gewurztraminer
Fermentation Stainless Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content 12.8%
Suggested Retail $28.00
WineSellar Club Price $13.49!!!
Broad Strokes: 91 Points!!! 1,300 cases, sold out at the winery
From the Winery: Gewürztraminer is difficult to capture, on the vine it will go from pitch-perfect to over-ripe in a number of hours. As wine, it has an amazingly wide breadth of characteristics that it can display, it can be spice-driven, floral, sweet, bone-chillingly dry, clear, orange or pink. When it is done well it is a thing of rare, fleeting beauty that will last decades, much like the memory of a beautiful woman met once and disappeared.
Between the two friends, Xavier and Philip have 25+ years’ experience working in Central Coast wineries. Xavier has been cellar master or assistant winemaker for some of the Central Coasts’ most luminous wineries, including: Sans Liege, Arcadian and Herman Story. Philip cut his teeth at Proof Wine Collective before taking on the creative director role at Herman Story and Desparada. The wines of Union Sacre are focused on elegant, single vineyard, single varietal wines that are table friendly.
Appearance:
This is about as busy, and unique a label can be. To be sure, you are not exactly sure where to look or exactly what it is. Adding to the little dilemma is the color of the wine, looking like a rose’ somewhat, exhibiting a very different copper-orange-pink hue. This is essentially the color of the grape, and they left the skins on the juice for sixteen hours to get it to this color.
Nose:
A wild and wonderful myriad of scents. Luscious and floral on the nose, with cantaloupe, ripe pear and apple, with white peach. I also enjoyed toasted brioche, honey and brown butter. Also, look for earth-driven notes of wet stone, mineral and dust.
Texture:
You’ll experience a wide, generous mouthful of expanding ripe fruit, which then tightens up with some gentle but lively acids. The fruit is still large on the finish, but the overall impressions is that of mouth-watering ripeness, firmed by the verve of the balancing acid.
Flavors:
Ripe cantaloupe, and very ripe white tree fruit, along with honey, and toasted brioche. Lychee nut flavors are also stout. It is long in the palate, and is a delightful, attention-grabbing bottle of wine!
Serving Suggestions:
At this price, less than ½ of the winery selling price, what are we waiting for? I didn’t, I already bought my case!
2018 Pinot Grigio, “City Lights”, Casa Tiene Vista Vineyards
Growing Region Buellton, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Grigio
Fermentation Stainless Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content 12.9%
Suggested Retail $20.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.99!!!
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Susan and Mick Gallagher are the proprietors of Casa Tiene Vista Vineyard. Although they both started their careers in the technology industry, it has become their lifelong passion to create a vineyard. The quest started about twenty years ago when they were hosting VIP trips to Napa Valley for key clients. During these trips they met and befriended many winery owners and soon understood the wine business is not only a unique business, but a culture into itself. We’ve won more than 100 medals in wine competitions, but we don’t let that go to our heads. We dedicate ourselves to producing the highest quality wine with consistently year after year.
Lori and I visited the winery in late March. We sat down with Mick for an hour and a half tasting their wines and hearing their story. We really enjoyed the wines, and the story, and wanted to share them with our WineSellar Club members. We are happy to support our local wineries, and businesses, finding the local wines becoming finer every year.
Appearance:
Mick Gallagher conceived and designed the label himself. It is distinctive, and fun, and of course, I do love the clear bottles. The wine glistens very well brilliant metallic hues of diamonds and gold. A tiny effervescence may appear as well. Very pretty!
Nose:
A nice lime and honey component comes out, with melon, peaches and white nectarine. Some floral (honeysuckle) notes are edged by a nice minerality.
Texture:
Smooth and easy drinking, while still holding firm acid for the rounded fruit. Nice middle palate feel, and a light, engaging finish begs for another sip.
Flavors:
Red apple and ripe pear fruit are wrapped around the melon and white peach flavors. Nice touch of honey, honeysuckle as well. Finishes off with the mineral and chalk edge, keeping it in line for light appetizers.
Serving Suggestions:
Great value, and a very fun wine. Plan on summer sipping this by the barbie or in the hot tub.
2018 Pinot Noir, Fifty-Fifty, Mignanelli Family Wines
Growing Region Santa Cruz Mountains/Santa Lucia Highlands
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $58.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.09!!!
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Mignanelli Family Wines has become known for crafting with distinction only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Unique soils, climates and topography, coinciding with our dry farming practices define the character expressed in each wine. The Mignanelli Family has partnered with long-term notable growers in the most sought-after appellations to artfully compose wines of impeccable quality and true varietal character. Our vineyard focused philosophy can be credited with the elegance of our wines. Using the terroir to express the varietal, allows the growing season to define the vintage.
Fifty-Fifty ‘Grand Appellation’, focused on a single established varietal from two noteworthy appellations, resulting in an artfully crafted 50/50 blend. The ‘Grand Appellation’ series represents a collaboration of two well-renowned appellations, both known for the exquisite quality of the same varietal. The inaugural dual appellation 50/50 blend is comprised of Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir.
Appearance:
Given the idea, a logical concept for the label, and it does stand out on the shelf. Not sure I am thrilled with the red hue on the label. Get out your magnifying glass to read the back label! The wine has a pretty garnet robe, with black tea around the edges.
Nose:
Chewy Pinot Noir fruit with a touch of clove, black pepper and spice. Call it the power of suggestion, but I can detect the chunky rusticity of Santa Cruz fruit and the open, ripe fruit from the Santa Lucia Highlands.
Texture:
Medium in weight and body. The wine is tight and closed upon the entry, needing time to resolve the youthful puckering it gives you. Bodes well for the future! Later, Pinot Noir smoothness comes in.
Flavors:
Solid and firm red and black fruits, raspberry, charry and red currants. You may detect the clove, spices and forest floor/earth notes as well. Tobacco leaf, oak, and a touch of vanilla round out the flavor profile. Will age for 5-8 years.
Serving Suggestions:
A $58 wine for under $20? Buy some and put some in your cellar!!! What a DEAL!!!!
2015 Project España Red, Derby Wine Estates
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 157% Tempranillo, 12% Graciano, 14% Grenache, 17% Carignane
Fermentation French & American Oak
Alcohol Content 15.1%
Suggested Retail $38.00
WineSellar Club Price $33.29
Broad Strokes:
Proprietors Ray and Pam Derby moved to the Central Coast area in the early 1990’s with the intention of retiring. In 1998, they purchased their first vineyard property, now known as Derbyshire Vineyard and their thoughts of retirement were replaced by the inspiration of being a part of the wine world. In the years following, Ray next acquired the historic Laura’s Vineyard (in east Paso) and then the Westside property, now called the Derby Vineyard. Needless to say, their plans of retirement never came to fruition.
After experiencing nearly a decade as a grape grower, the potential strengths of each property became apparent and in 2008, Ray and Pam launched Derby Wine Estates. They are extremely selective in terms of what goes into the bottle under the Derby label. The commitment to the land is appreciable, with only 20 hand-selected acres being used to provide fruit for their own brand. Grapes from the remainder (some 90% of their total acreage) are sold to some of the finest wine producers in California.
Appearance:
A sleek, quasi-Darth Vader look, that comes off classy and distinctive. The wine is black at the core, and yields out to the edges a distantly tawny yet brilliant ruby red. This is a perfect color for a wine spending a few years in the bottle.
Nose:
The highly perfumed nose has this wildly wonderful, unique character of fresh raspberries and strawberries, slowly braised in soy/teriyaki. Hint of balsamic & syrup. More standard elements feature ripe plum, black fruits, smoke and oak.
Texture:
Bold, fun, engaging feel upon the entry. Perhaps a bit brassy, but not brazen, it’s just saying “hello”, pay attention. It’s got mine! Nicely balanced, feeling quite youthful for wine produced six vintages ago. Excellent presence on the finish.
Flavors:
Beautiful black cherry fruit is solid and foremost. Then we’re hit with a barrage of exuberant, playful elements: balsamic, roasted berries, teriyaki/soy, black pepper, grilled bread, sweet vanilla oak and smoke. It’s a gusher!
Serving Suggestions:
The wine has years to go, at least 10-12 from now. Put six of them in the cellar, please!
2017 Blaufrankisch, 7301, Kirnbauer
Growing Region Burgenland, Austria
Varietal Composition 100% Blaufrankisch
Fermentation Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $23.00
WineSellar Club Price $19.79
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The K + K Kirnbauer winery is run as a family business. The whole family works to make the best wine for you. The family winery towers over the roofs of the Blaufränkischland. Here the sun pampers the vines 300 days a year. Together with the heavy soils, the best red wines thrive here on the vineyard's 40 hectares of vineyards.
Harmony of wine and wood is THE philosophy of the house. The company has dedicated itself entirely to sustainable management: the protection of nature and resources should also enable future generations to enjoy optimal wine-growing conditions. "Our wines stand for maximum enjoyment, Pannonian joie de vivre and are an expression of our identity."
Blaufränkisch is a dark-skinned variety of grape used for red wine. Blaufränkisch, which is a late-ripening variety, produces red wines which are typically rich in tannin and may exhibit a pronounced spicy character.
Appearance:
I’m loving the well-disguised screwcap! I like the looks overall, though it is not easy to understand what is going on to the average consumer. Like, what is 7301, and what is Blaufrankisch you may ask? Dark cherry red color, black olive edges.
Nose:
Black cherry, raspberry, cherries, slightly herbal, roasted hazelnuts are all enveloped by wood smoke and animal. Kind of rustic, yet I kept sticking my nose in there finding new evolutions from the aromatics.
Texture:
The wine has a large, dense feel in the mouth. Not from too much overripe fruit, but from an aggressive punch of a vigorous, lively spirit. It eventually softens, gets creamy and relinquishes to a smooth, silky aftertaste.
Flavors:
Overall, quite delicious! Flavors have powerful, assertive notes of blackberry, boysenberry jam, vanilla oak, wood smoke, a crush of fresh herbs, and that little touch of animal that I got on the nose (especially early on).
Serving Suggestions:
The wine has years to go, at least 10-12 from now. I would cellar 3-6 of them, at least.
2015 Crux, Petite Sirah
Growing Region Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Varietal Composition 90% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel, 5% Syrah
Fermentation 20% New French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.7%
Suggested Retail $45.00
WineSellar Club Price $40.49
Broad Strokes: A mere 177 cases produced!
Lori and I visited Steve Gower at the winery in April of this year, and he conducted a private and somewhat extensive tasting of his current and library releases. One sip of this Petite Sirah, and I knew I was bringing back to my Gary Parker Collection group. It is cellar worthy!
Crux Winery owners Brian Callahan and Steven Gower craft small lots of Rhone varietals–Grenache, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache Blanc and Viognier–as well as Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. They focus on wines that capture the unique characteristics of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, where they live. Their wines are rich, complex and balanced, without excessive alcohol levels or overripe fruit flavors.
Appearance:
Great packaging! Using the word “CRU” and adding an “X” to the end is a genius way to describe their property as being on the “CRUX” of Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Chalk Hill. The wine is nearly black all the way though with some dark purple edging.
Nose:
The heady and exotic aromas are very deep, with dark fruit nuances of blackberries and blueberries. Then followed by smoke, black pepper, mocha/cappuccino, and a touch of spearmint and lilac. It is a major WOW!
Texture:
The wine is dense, packed with powerful fruit, powerful tannins, powerful flavor. I love it! Needs an hour of decanting to smooth it over. Then the powerful tannins are peeled back and meld into the powerful fruit. You need to have a bit of patience with this wine to experience all it has to bring to you. Very long finish.
Flavors:
My lips keep smacking up new tastes after each sip of this wine. In the beginning, solid condensed, concentrated blackberry fruit. Then super-ripe plum, stewed raspberries, spice (nutmeg/cinnamon), then the coffee notes of espresso and mocha. At the never-ending-end, there is a touch of balsamic and molasses that lingers nicely.
Serving Suggestions:
I am putting a case away for long and short term cellaring, I would suggest drinking through that case over the next 15 years.
2018 Sculpterra, “Figurine”, Estate
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Primitivo, 12% Merlot
Fermentation 16 Months, 17% New American Oak
Alcohol Content 15.4%
Suggested Retail $45.00
WineSellar Club Price $40.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Dr. Warren Frankel, his wife Kathy and their three children moved to Paso Robles from the San Fernando Valley in 1979 with a vision for a simpler life. The Frankel family first planted 20 acres of pistachios on the ranch, followed by 20 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. After initial success with both plantings, Dr. Frankel expanded the vineyard operation in 1997 with more Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 acres of Zinfandel and 10 acres of Merlot.
With the potential for a tasting room and winery that could showcase the estate vineyard fruit and become a destination for wine and art aficionados, Dr. Frankel broke ground on the winery in 2006 and opened for business in October 2007. Sculpterra now features a fine portfolio of ultra-premium wines, fine art and a multi-million-dollar sculpture garden that greet our guests and make for a memorable wine tasting experience.
Appearance:
Another artistic, classy and distinctive package from this winery. They have the golden wand when it comes to all things art. Skin of dark cherry hue bleeds out to a light black-purple color. From here, the winery notes are so beautiful and majestic, I yield to their words . . .
Nose:
The complexity in this wine is truly breathtaking, as a plethora of diverse aromas will surely fill your senses. It opens with aromas of raspberry pie crust, black pepper, licorice candy, lilac, baked earth and ends on toasted oak. Plum, cherry soda aromas, mocha and black pepper bouquets dominate on the nose
Texture:
The mouthfeel is smoothly layered and integrated with new American oak barrels . . . rich tannic structure, dark-berry fruits and plenty of spice on the finish. Vibrant, expressive, charming.
Flavors:
These woody spice notes carry throughout the wine’s broad palate, decorating the savory black olive, charred meat and oregano spice taste. The wine’s overall fruity taste is offset and framed by dry and polished tannins. Notes of Christmas spice, ginger, and strawberry.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is well worth cellaring for many years to come. But do yourself a favor and try some right now!
Spring Cole Slaw – Sonoma Style
Lori and I were up in Sonoma Wine Country conducting reconnaissance for our upcoming WineSellar & Brasserie Wine Tour in mid-October. We had the privilege of staying at a wonderful winery guest house, which had a very comfy, remote location, and a very large, well equipped kitchen.
After tasting at many wineries and lunching a few days in a row, we decided to stay in one night to drink in the view of the vineyards at the house, while making a light dinner.
We had been shopping at an open, outdoor market, and had gathered some fresh proteins and vegetables, and proceeded to prepare a simple, refreshing dinner. This recipe came from that night, and we made it up as we went. We enjoyed it with some fabulous Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc.
Serves two:
Ingredients:
- ½ fresh Napa cabbage
- 2 Mandarin Orange
- One Red Apple, not too tart
- Heaping teaspoon of finely chopped Shallots
- Mild Red Chile Pepper, small
- 2 Tablespoons Greek Yogurt
- Teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar
- ¼ Teaspoon fresh lime juice
Method:
-
Slice the Napa Cabbage from the top down, until gathering enough to nearly fill two bowls. Set aside.
-
Peel Mandarin oranges, pull apart the sections, and cut them in half.
-
Save ¼ of one of the Mandarin meat from one of them. Set aside.
-
Julienne cut red apple, set aside.
-
Finely chop Red Chile Pepper, set aside. (Monitor the heat!)
-
In a small mixing bowl, add apple cider vinegar, juice from the quarter meat of one Mandarin.
-
Fold in the yogurt and gently mix the liquid, leaving it on the thicker side.
-
Combine all ingredients into a mixing bowl and serve, adding salt & pepper to taste.
Notes:
If you are feeling artistic, you can arrange the plate in a number of different patterns, adding the yogurt on top.
It improves with time. Ours was even better the next day.