Wine Club Newsletter - June 2022
How ‘New World’ Pinot Noirs Turned the Tables on Red Burgundy
From Gary . . . Jancis Robinson writes an informative, insightful look to the state of Pinot Noirs coming from around the world. GP
How ‘New World’ Pinot Noirs Turned the Tables on Red Burgundy
by Jancis Robinson
There has been a real evolution in the style of wine made by the top exponents of Pinot Noir outside France
In the old days, Europeans used to berate what we referred to as “New World” Pinot Noirs for being too dark, too alcoholic, often too tannic and lacking the finesse of the prototype, red burgundy. Having tasted many a 2020 red burgundy over the past few weeks, I venture to suggest that the tables have turned.
The 2020 red burgundies I encountered during London’s Covid-shrunk Burgundy Week this month were deeply coloured, often quite sweet, more potent than burgundy used to be and — thanks to a dry growing season that yielded thick-skinned, albeit admirably healthy grapes — rather chewier than usual.
When, at the last minute, I couldn’t go to Burgundy in November, my Dijon-based colleague Matthew Hayes inherited my carefully crafted timetable for tasting 2020s at some of the top domaines and he has been raving about the quality he encountered. At the finest addresses, 2020 certainly produced some truly memorable wines of both colours. Yet the wines shown in London tend to be a notch down from the most sought-after producers’ wares and, while there were some stunning 2020 white burgundies on show, I found some of the reds just too bold and sweet to fit into my (possibly prejudiced) idea of the red burgundy paradigm. (The extremely challenging, cool — and small — vintage of 2021 will almost certainly produce wines that are more like the traditional, fresh Burgundian stereotype.)
Meanwhile, being a lover of red burgundy and Pinot Noir in all its forms, I have continued to taste Pinots from all over the world and have noticed them getting paler and paler, fresher and fresher, and increasingly delicate. Thanks to climate change, the grapes ripen much faster than they used to, which means it can be difficult to limit alcohol levels wherever they are grown. But I would argue there has been a real evolution in the style of wine made by the top exponents of Pinot Noir outside France. Their wines are so much more subtle than they used to be. I just searched my tasting notes database for top-scoring non-Burgundy Pinot Noirs from the past three years, expecting to be able to mention a handful of exciting producers.
In fact, I found more than 100 examples of wines that I scored at least 17 out 20. (I am a mean scorer and to put that in context, of the 280 of the 2020 red burgundies I have tasted so far in London, I gave only about 20 a score of at least 17.) Looking for examples of fine Pinots produced outside France, I am almost spoilt for choice in finding candidates from California, Oregon, Chile, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Germany. Because Pinot Noir is an early-ripening grape, to develop sufficiently interesting flavours it has to be grown in fairly cool parts of these places so that the growing season is not too short.
In many cases, this has meant reliance on vineyards with a strong coastal influence — the Pacific in the first three on the list above and the South Atlantic in South Africa — or the relatively high sites that produce some (though by no means all) of Australia’s finest Pinots. Germany, meanwhile, has been benefiting from warmer summers that now ripen its Pinot Noir grapes (often called Spätburgunder) fully, as well as from more sophisticated winemaking.
My list of recommended Pinot producers below mentions only a few of those whom I think can now offer something of interest to those who hanker after pre climate change red burgundy. Travel restrictions being what they are, I have had to limit the list to those wines that find their way to the UK, which doubtless excludes many worthy American examples since the US market tends to be much more appealing to US wine producers than the more penny-pinching British one.
Whereas those outside France can carefully choose where to plant their Pinot Noir vines, growers in Burgundy are stuck. The appellation contrôlée regulations delimited the region — and the complex web of climats within it — a century or more ago. I often read reports by general commentators on the effect of global warming on French wine producers that glibly suggest that vignerons move to cooler climes; it ain’t that easy in a country whose wines are sold on the basis of geography.
Consequently, the richness of the 2020 vintage in Burgundy, which was preceded by two other warm-to-hot growing seasons in 2019 and 2018, offers an opportunity for the best Pinot Noir producers outside France to champion the finesse of their wines. What about price comparisons? It can safely be said that top red burgundy prices have zoomed off the scale — if not at the cellar door, then certainly on merchants’ and fine wine traders’ lists.
As for the finest non-Burgundy Pinots, there is no mature secondary market for them, so release prices remain pretty stable, and there are — for the moment — few producers asking truly silly prices. Yet many of these wines are made in small quantities (like pretty much all red burgundy) and have a keen local following, which means that few are exactly cheap.
In terms of recommendations for value, I find myself repeating the advice I gave for the 2019 vintage, an even hotter year than 2020. When you have a warm growing season in Burgundy, the difference in quality between wines from the grandest and the least grand sites tends to shrink, so that probably the greatest bargains are among the lowlier appellations made by the finest producers. Such wines — Bourgogne Rouge, for example, or wines labelled with the name of a village — can be less expensive than the most exalted non-French Pinot Noirs. UK merchants now selling 2020 burgundies are making much of the remarkable level of freshness in the reds, despite the grapes having been grown during a relentlessly warm summer. (Harvest dates were unusually early — many grapes were picked before the end of August — but, fortunately, budburst in spring was also early so the total growing season was long enough.)
Some of this freshness may well be due, not to natural acidity retained as the grapes ripened, but to the fact that some of the grapes started to shrivel at the end of this hot summer, so everything in them, including such acidity as remained, was concentrated. It will be interesting to monitor the effect of this as the wines age. I hate generalising but offer two nuggets of advice. Take 2020 white burgundy very seriously. And it’s time to abandon any lingering prejudice against Pinot Noir grown outside Burgundy.
...
Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2020 Petita Julieta Blanc, Josep Foraster
Growing Region Conca de Barbera, Catalunya, Spain
Varietal Composition 100% Macabeo
Fermentation Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 12.5%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $19.79
Broad Strokes:
For over 150 years, the Foraster family has been growing grapes and olives on their estate in the township of Montblanc, Spain.
In 1998, after updating the vineyards and planting new high-quality red varieties around the property, father Josep Foraster and son Josep Foraster decided to build a cellar in an old farm structure and begin bottling wine there.
Josep Foraster Jr. tragically died in 1999, the same year the family's first vintage was about to hit the market. Josep's sister Julieta Foraster and her son Ricard Sebastià Foraster decided to take over the company and manage it from then on.
Appearance:
The scripted font on the word “Petita Julieta” could be easier to read, please, as these words do not translate to our English language. The font under Josep Foraster is too small to read, making wonderment of what’s inside the bottle. Am I being petty? The wine has a golden straw hue, and is clear and very pretty.
Nose:
Very pleasing fresh white fruits on the nose: melon, cantaloupe, kiwi, papaya, citrus, and white flower. All this is laced with a kiss of lime (and some Meyer lemon) and notes of pink grapefruit as well.
Texture:
Medium to medium light in body and weight. The wine enters gently, then the citric acids accelerate on the sides of the tongue, making the mouth water. It has a crispy, clean, very fresh feel to it. The lively acids invite food. The texture of the wine smooths out significantly with 30-40 minutes of airing.
Flavors:
From the nose comes the palate: Fresh Honeydew melon, kiwi, cantaloupe and papaya fruit are pleasant and engaging. They are counter balanced by the lime and pink grapefruit flavors and acids. I also got notions of beeswax and a light touch of artisanal honey.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is so much fun, drinking on its own, or adding one of the fresh fruits in the descriptors (kiwi, melon, papaya) with some mild cheeses. YUM!
2017 Charades, Carlson
Growing Region Santa Barbara County, California
Varietal Composition 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Syrah, 5% Petite Verdot
Fermentation New French Oak, 20% New
Alcohol Content 14.1%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.09
Broad Strokes:
Chuck Carlson’s winemaking career in Santa Barbara County spans more than 34 years, including the past ten years as the proprietor of Carlson Wines, specializing in limited-edition wines including Pinot Noir from Santa Rita Hills along with Cabernet Franc and several aromatic white wines from the Santa Ynez Valley.
With a newly minted enology degree from Fresno State University, Chuck first joined Zaca Mesa Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley, where he helped create the winery’s groundbreaking Rhône varietal program. The “school of Zaca Mesa” has since become renowned for launching the careers of many notable Central Coast winemakers. For nearly 20 years, Chuck served as the winemaker at Curtis Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley, which was founded as one of California’s first wineries to specialize exclusively in Rhône varietals.
Appearance:
Classic styled label is clean, effective, and easy to read. And YES! A screwcap closure. The wine sparkles in the glass, with a handsome and fresh looking (especially for a few years old) coloring of garnet/dark red.
Nose:
The fragrance of this wine is elegant and almost calming. It has this cedar essence I enjoy in soke well-made Red Bordeaux wine. Smooth, ripe, dark plum fruit, with notes of spices, vanilla and wet stone. Syrah comes on strongest on the nose.
Texture:
Medium to medium in body and weight. The acid feels lively and very youthful on the plate, especially, again, for a wine that is five years old. Bold presence, but firmly entrenched in old world elegance.
Flavors:
Dark cherry and very ripe dark plum fruit head up the very spicy edge the wine carries, Some ripe strawberry essence, with black pepper, a distant note of anise, sage, thyme, vanilla and a bit of clay/dark soil.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine begs for a beef stew or a grilled filet Mignon with green peppercorn sauce! Probably has 6-10 years of cellar potential, a hell of a bottle for $26.09!
2014 Rambling Ridge, Proprietary Red
Growing Region Sonoma Valley, California
Varietal Composition Bordeaux Blend
Fermentation Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 14.7%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
This is a rarity, a wine that is not on the market but made by John Bambury, of The Bambury Wine Collection as well as Bonneau Winery and Opal Moon winery. You may recall we recently featured the 2015 Bonneau Cabernet Sauvignon in our Gary Parker Collection, which was very well received.
From the Winery: Bonneau winery is operated by the third generation of Bonneau’s with family history dating back to the early 1920’s in the Sonoma-Carneros appellation.
The Bonneau’s originally came to America from the vineyard lands of Bordeaux, France and began farming a 70-acre parcel of land just south of the town of Sonoma. After growing and providing Chardonnay grapes to several well-known wineries in both Sonoma and Napa, the family launched its own label in 2002 and our Bonneau Chardonnay was born.
Appearance:
Better than average looking bottle, showing a fine rendering of a gorgeous vineyard by a commissioned artist. Deep punt, slick labels, all looking quite sophisticated. The wine, even at eight years old, has a youthful red/black color to it.
Nose:
Showing the evolution of time in a bottle, the aromatics show complex and evolved notes of cedar, focused dark red cherry, plum hints of strawberry, black pepper, sage, and roasted walnuts.
Texture:
It is medium in body and weight. Very fine palate feel, rich in fruit, even and silken as well. Kind of has the weight and creaminess of 2% milk. Showing the benefits of eight years from the vintage, the acids and tannins have leveled out with time, allowing the lovely fruit flavors to shine ahead. Perfect line of acid on the finish.
Flavors:
Again, the years in the bottle turns the youthful fruits and acids into an elegant, smooth, well balanced drink. Blackberry fruit, raspberry jelly, hints of smoke, wood barrel vanilla, dairy cream, ripe cherry meat, red fruits, finishing with a touch of wood. EXCELLENT!
Serving Suggestions:
Ready to drink now, and at the price, an outstanding bargain!
2014 Kindred, Seven Angels
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petite Sirah, 30% Syrah, 5% each Merlot & Petite Verdot
Fermentation Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 15.25%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $31.49
Broad Strokes:
Seven Angels Cellars is a family owned, boutique winery located in Templeton, CA. We began making wine in 2009 with a small production of Petite Sirah. Since then we have increased production to around 3,000 cases per year. Greg Martin is the owner/winemaker and Pamela Martin is the other owner and handles social media, food pairings, wine club and club events and the website. The story behind the name came from our passion for family. We have seven children in our blended family, our 7 angels.
We believe in the “less is best” approach to winemaking. Less manipulation and more natural methods of making our wine. Greg likes to play with using different kinds of oak in our barrel program. Our wines are food friendly, approachable in both flavor and price point. Just over 200 cases made.
Appearance:
Upscale bottle with a deep punt. Nice touch having angel wings on the label . . . wish they were better defined. Nice comments on the back label. The wine has taken on some traits of its age, the red hue softening to burnish the edges, for instance. Clings to the glass.
Nose:
Ripe, deep red and black fruits whoosh up from the glass. I detected hints of date, underbrush and lively dollop of fresh herbs. Spice of cardamom. Think ripe fruit and power with a steely edge to it.
Texture:
It is medium to medium full in body and weight. The wine is not the least bit shy. Entering the palate, you’ll feel substantial power and force, but with very fine harmony. Almost oily, but it is edged off by a firm line of acid.
Flavors:
Dark cherry, cherry skin, blackberry, black currant and boysenberry fruits. Expansive palate feel brings out these delicious black fruits, along with rhubarb pie, pie dough, vanilla and black pepper. You may find some roasted beef, smoke, mushroom, and truffle as well.
Serving Suggestions:
The winery recommends beef short ribs or mushroom stroganoff.
2012 Macchialupa, Le Surte Taurasi
Growing Region Taurasi, Campania, Italy
Varietal Composition 100% Aglianico
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $44.00
WineSellar Club Price $39.59
Broad Strokes:
This is a highly regarded newer estate producing fine examples of classic wines from the area. The estate was established in 2001 by Angelo Valentino. An oenologist specializing in Fiano di Avellino and Aglianico di Taurasi, and Giuseppe Ferrara, an agronomist viticulturist specializing in Greco di Tufo.
Aglianico is a red wine grape variety native to southern Italy. It is known to produce full-bodied red wines that show musky berry flavors with firm tannins and good aging potential. Even when grown in hot climates, Aglianico is capable of retaining high levels of acidity, which makes it a particularly useful vine in the Mediterranean. Aglianico from Taurasi is typically not blended, taking a few years for the tannins to resolve. Fortunately for us, we have a 2012 vintage to enjoy!
Appearance:
Darth Vader goes Italian. Everything is black with gold counterpoint graphics. Back label is then a disappointment plain as it is. Ohhhh the Bureaucracy! Big heavy bottle with a deep punt shows they want to make a statement with this baby. The wine is dark red/garnet, nearly black at the core.
Nose:
The nose is subtle, especially in the beginning, offering scents of raspberry, cherry, red meat, smoke, tomato, violets, cinnamon and delicate touches of wood seasoning. The delicate nose takes on more floral components as it airs.
Texture:
The wine has a rustic finesse to it. Medium in body, but intense in flavor. Acidity and tannins are well-integrated with the fruits, giving us an excellent balance and feel in the mouth. Finish is drying and crisp.
Flavors:
The wine is spicy, with bramble-like fruit. There are notes of white cherry and dark fruits as well. Tobacco, wild cherry, vanilla, and wood notes of roasted nuts. On the finish, the oak notes and spices become more evident, especially cinnamon.
Serving Suggestions:
Fatty meats over grill are perfect matches for this wine, think lamb rack!
2017 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Galevan
Growing Region South Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre
Fermentation 12 Months in Barrel
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $75.00
WineSellar Club Price $62.99
Broad Strokes: 93 Points!!!
Gary is Totally INSPIRED by this Wine!!!
Coralie Goumarre took over from her parents in 1995, and she is the ninth generation of vine growers at the estate. Previously, the grapes were delivered to the co-operative. The Domaine covers a total of 49 hectares of vineyards and the vines have an average age of 55 years. The vineyards have been certified organic since 2011. The main production is Côtes-du-Rhône, but 2 hectares are in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Appearance:
I love the classic embossment on the Châteauneuf-du-Pape bottles. The cool, dye cut label to boot, giving a nod to the contemporary, is effective and articulate. I like the information on the back label as well. The wine has a skin of dark red apple coloring, which pales as it reaches the edge of the glass.
Nose:
Superb aromatics are complex and immediately identifiable as Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Spicy, candied strawberries, with licorice, black walnuts, grilled bread and black olive. Classic garrique, with herbs, stones, mineral and earth.
Texture:
This is a rich and full-bodied Châteauneuf-du Pape. It’s large in its presence, with expanding fruit and power in the middle palate. While still possessing youthful, gripping tannins, you can easily sense the nearly overwhelming potential this wine has, to gain further complexity with just a few years in the bottle.
Flavors:
Deep cherry fruit, rounded by a Kirsch richness, with powerful dark berry fruit backing that up. Ripe plum, leather, sage, soy, grilled bread, black pepper, tobacco, a hint of balsamic, and roasted nuts.
Serving Suggestions:
After having just spent three weeks conducting wine tours in the Rhone Valley, I must say this is one of the best Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines I have tasted for quite some time. As I mentioned, I am VERY impressed by this wine, and have already ordered my case to drop into the cellar for the next fifteen years or so. Reason to live, yes! I will be 85 Years old then!
NV Champagne Taittinger, Grand Cru
Growing Region: Grand Cru Vineyards in Avize, Le Mesnil sur Oger, Mailly, and Ambonnay in Champagne, France
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 50% Chardonnay / 50% Pinot Noir
Vinification (From the winery): Methode Champenoise , cellared for 5 years on the lees
Dosage: 9 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $85.00
WineSellar Club Price: $76.49
From the Winery:
The Taittinger family has managed the Champagne house for nearly a century.
Their aim is the pursuit of excellence. This is an ideal prelude to a unique moment of pleasure and celebration.
94 pts Wine Enthusiast, 92 pts Burghound
Appearance:
Light golden hue
Nose:
Croissants, gardenias, baked apple, melon, and honey
Texture:
Tiny, precise bubbles
Flavors:
Hazelnuts, baked apples, spiced pear, cinnamon, and nutmeg. The finish is rich and long lasting. Sophistication and balance.
Serving Suggestions:
Perfect with hazelnut encrusted halibut!
NV Loose Wines - Super Natura Bianco
Growing Region: Emilia Romagna, Italy
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Trebbiano, 5% Chardonnay
Vinification (From the winery): Small production, minimal intervention, vegan, hand harvested and transported to the winery in small batches.
Dosage: 0 g/l
Alcohol Content: 11.5 %
Suggested Retail: $27.00
WineSellar Club Price: $24.29
From the Winery:
A collaboration project born from a shared passion of SoCal design, modern art and natural wine. Husband and wife team Kevin & Bo Carney with winemaker Giovanna Randi wanted to create a fresh, young wine.
Appearance:
Cloudy (unfiltered) and sunny
Nose:
Fresh garden herbs, tropical fruits, ripe citrus, sourdough and minerality
Texture:
Subtle, known as a pet-nat…short for petillant naturel in French, a light fizz
Flavors:
Tart green apple, pineapple, lemon zest, lime and almonds
Serving Suggestions:
Sipping poolside in the California sun!
Fresh Berry Ice Cream Topping
(No Sugar)
I was making dinner ahead for guests, and now that spring is here, I have been seeing loads of fresh, organic berries at the market. Inspired, I brought home blueberries, strawberries and cherries while my mind was swirling with thoughts of dessert. This is an easy to make as well as delicious topping for ice cream.
Ingredients:
- 1 cup of blueberries
- 1 cup strawberries
- 1 cup of fresh cherries
- 2 slices of lemon
- 3-4 ounces of artisan honey
- 2 ounces cream sherry
- 1-2 ounces cognac of brandy
- ½ teaspoon cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon black pepper
- 2 pats of butter
- Vanilla Ice Cream
Method:
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Wash and dry the blueberries and strawberries. Set aside.
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Wash and pit the cherries. Set aside.
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In a saucepan add one pat of butter, the honey, cognac and sherry and turn on very low.
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Add lemon slices to pan.
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Add the black pepper.
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Add the cinnamon.
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Add cherries and let them warm first, as they take longer to soften through.
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When cherries have warmed and softened, add the blueberries and strawberries
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Continue warming pan with very low heat until fruit is soft but not cooked all the way through. You can remove the pan from the heat and set aside for serving later.
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Just prior to serving, warm ingredients in the pan, discard lemon slices, swirl in the last pat of butter and serve warm over the ice cream.
Option: Adding toasted nuts to finished product.