Wine Club Newsletter - February 2023
The California Storms Were Great for Vineyards
For several days, Jason Haas and his employees at the Tablas Creek Vineyard couldn't reach their vines.
The January storms that pummeled California washed out the roads and burst river banks, making even the simplest commute treacherous. Their tasting room closed for four days.
But even so, he was thrilled.
The atmospheric rivers that swept through California for two weeks caused an estimated $30 Billion in damage. Up and down the state, the torrents collapsed hillsides, uprooted trees, and washed out highways. At least 20 people died, and millions were under flood warnings.
But the rain also provided a desperately needed gift to California's famed wineries, which have endured three years of drought, extreme wildfires, and the spiraling doom loop of climate change. The rains have replenished the groundwater and refilled reservoirs, giving winemakers hope for a productive growing season.
That is not just good news for wine growers and aficionados: the industry generates tens of billions of dollars for California's economy and is one of the state's best-known exports.
Water has a direct impact on how much a vineyard can produce in any given year. Tablas Creek Vineyard, in the coastal foothills of Paso Robles, had been producing about a third of its typical yield since 2017 due to severe drought. "That was the last plentiful vintage we had," Mr. Haas said.
But this year might be different.
Winter rains, which nourish vines while they are still dormant and have not yet started to grow grapes, are "almost always a good thing," said Mr. Haas.
"It will ensure that the vines have enough vigor to ripen the crop this year," he continued.
"It's not a guarantee the wines are going to be great, but it eliminates one of the biggest worries that we have: that there's not going to be enough water to keep the vines growing."
Vintners in California's Napa Valley region "were celebrating in some ways. We need the rain, desperately," said Stu Smith of the Smith-Madrone Vineyards. In fact, he added, "we want more."
Mr. Smith uses dry farming techniques, meaning many of his vines are not irrigated. That makes plentiful rainfall and groundwater especially important, as "our vines only get what mother nature gives us," he said.
The series of storms has not eliminated California's historic drought, but it has offered the state relief.
As of 19 January, only 46% of California was experiencing "severe drought," compared to 80% of the state covered by severe drought last month, according to the US Drought Monitor.
Last month, 35% of the state experienced "extreme drought" - an inadequate water supply for agriculture - but as of this week, the percentage of the state dealing with those conditions plummeted to less than 1%.
Lots of rain will not automatically translate into more or better wine. The grapes will have to make it through a tricky growing season made more treacherous by climate change, said Gustavo Gonzalez, whose Mira Winery in Napa was one of several that flooded due to rain and overflowing creeks.
The rest of the year could be dry, he said. Poorly timed frost could kill delicate buds. Wildfires, made more intense and dangerous by climate change, could strike in October, right before harvest. And then there are the usual foes: rot, insects, and a host of other issues that have plagued vines for centuries.
"It's extremely nerve-wracking," Mr. Gonzalez told the BBC. "We can have wild weather pretty much any time. We don't relax."
Each winemaker gave different opinions about whether this season's heavy rains would impact on the taste of the vintage.
Mr. Gonzalez said that in some cases, too much water could produce swollen, less flavorful grapes. Mr. Smith was more reluctant to consider what he called an "imponderable" question. "Until you've harvested the grapes, you just don't know," Mr. Smith said.
...
Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2021 Vermentino, Brick Barn
Growing Region Santa Ynez Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Vermentino
Fermentation 90% Stainless, 10% Neutral French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.4%
Suggested Retail $42.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
From Gary:
This is why we so much enjoy discovering these wonderful, unique, special wines for you, and why you are in The WineSellar Club. The suggested retail price of the Vermentino from the winery, is more than your monthly cost for The WineSellar Club alone. The value of the two club wines this month is $73.00, a whopping 55% DISCOUNT!
Broad Strokes: 92 Points Gold, L.A. Invitational Wine Challenge
From the Winery: The 35-acre Brick Barn estate vineyard lies just north of the Santa Ynez River in a largely unexplored winegrowing corridor near the city of Buellton in the western Santa Ynez Valley. This wine represents a barrel selection featuring three Grenache clones and two Syrah clones, all planted to individual blocks along an upper highland at an elevation of 550 feet. Rocky/limestone soils provide ideal conditions for classic Rhône varieties.
Persistent sun exposure ensures ripe flavors, while the Pacific Ocean—just 10 miles away—delivers daily cooling that maintains fruit acidity and structure. These conditions combine to create a unique growing environment that speaks through our wines.
Appearance:
I like the absence of the foil capsule. Why bother with a wine that should be consumed in its youth? Save the material! The wine has a very light silver-white hue, looking nearly metallic.
Nose:
Brilliant fruit-forward aromatics! White peach, apricot, cut corn (truffle?) and perhaps even butter, with white pepper, and dairy cream. Also notice the delicate scent of white flowers, especially citrus flowers.
Texture:
Easy palate entry on this juicy, lovely white wine. Clean and balanced, possessing a phantastic, fresh and refreshing feel in the mouth from start to finish.
Flavors:
The white tree fruit flavors of pear, apricot and peach greet you on the first sip. Sesame seed, spices of white pepper, fine salt, vanilla, and white chocolate. This wine is a very cool version of the Italian grape varietal robed in the style distinctively that of California.
Serving Suggestions:
I enjoyed this by itself while cooking dinner. Mild cheeses, salads and fish dishes are friends.
2018 Shiraz, Zilzie Barossa Regional Collection Series
Growing Region Barossa, Australia
Varietal Composition 100% Shiraz
Fermentation French Oak for Twelve Months
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $31.00
WineSellar Club Price $24.29
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Our ancestors first landed their boots on this dusty property, just over 100 years ago. With backbreaking perseverance, under the scorching Australian sun, four generations of our family have turned their hand to many an agricultural pursuit. In the early 80’s, Ian & Roslyn Forbes followed their instincts and converted the property to vineyards, setting our family and future on a new course.
The love for this land is in our blood and managing the winery and one of the largest vineyards in the district with some 1700 acres under vine, is a family affair. Brothers Andrew and Steven Forbes now manage the vineyards and winery.
It brings us great joy to watch our children take to the land as effortlessly as we did, enjoying the freedom and freshness of the property and the promise of another generation eager to carry on our passion for this land.
Appearance:
Long, tall, thin bottle. While attractive, you cannot put them two deep in wine cellar at home because they are too long. I know, first world problems. Screw cap though, and a very cool label. The wine is barely opaque at the center.
Nose:
Very intense and very dense nose overall, even though it is still closed somewhat after 30 minutes of air. Blackberry, blackberry, blackberry. Another black, pepper.
Texture:
The dense rounded fruit borders between polite and party animal. Not tannic, but big presence and quite agreeable in the mouth. The major fruit component relaxes itself to the well-formed and lively acids.
Flavors:
Currant, and of course, blackberry! Spices of India, cumin, turmeric and masala have solid presence. This reminds me a hot fudge Sundae in my youth, with deep berry fruits, chocolate and vanilla tones, roasted (hazel) nuts and jam. Herbs of oregano, and the flavors of fig and dates are inclusive.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine would benefit from a couple more years in the bottle, but it is gorgeous now.
2021 Barbera, Vega Vineyard & Farm
Growing Region Santa Ynez Valley
Varietal Composition 100% Barbera
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $42.00
WineSellar Club Price $37.79
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: In 1976 Bill Mosby and his wife Jeri found the favorable land and purchased the 206 acres of Rancho la Vega. They planted eighteen acres of wine grapes. The Mosby’s learned of the rich history that the ranch carried with it and thus Vega Vineyards was born, a family venture to sell wine grapes to wineries. In 1980 they changed the name from Vega Vineyards to Mosby Winery and focused on selling direct to customers out of the tasting room on the property.
Demetrios and Karen Loizides had always been drawn to the region due to its similarities to Demetrios’s ancestral and grape-growing village of Kathikas, Cyprus. They realized their dream, purchased the farm, and wanted to share with friends and community. From there is where Vega Vineyard and Farm, a winery, restaurant, and catering operation that offers a genuine “farm to table” model grew.
Appearance:
Simple and easy to translate label has the really cool etching of the property you see in many European labels. There is more of their interesting history on the back label if you can read the size 4 font. The wine looks more like a Gamay than the generally darker Barbera.
Nose:
Bramble and strawberry fruit with hints of cherry, spices of clove and nutmeg. The wood treatment is subtle but effective. Dried leaves component with touches of mushroom, earth, and flowery lavender.
Texture:
Medium in weight and body. Feeling like it looks, as if it were a Gamay or a Pinot Noir. Meaning it feels light in weight but long in the palate. The smidgeon of sweet fruit is governed by a firm bit of acid.
Flavors:
The vibrant fruits of fresh plum, strawberry, raspberry, and red berry fruit are wrapped in the subtle wood treatment bringing sweet, strapped leather into the mix. Nutmeg and clove come through from the nose. Black walnut, black pepper, and a hint of blood orange juice.
Serving Suggestions:
This is an obvious shoe-in for pastas, tomato sauces, garlic bread and ripe cheeses.
2019 Six Bit Ranch, Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region Livermore Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation 17 Months French & American Oak
Alcohol Content 14.8%
Suggested Retail $32.00
WineSellar Club Price $28.79
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The term "Bit" was coined in the 1500s in reference to the eight- reales silver coin of New Spain and Mexico. It is also called "a piece of eight" and circulated in the English Colonies and freely in the USA. The eight-reales coin was the world’s most used coin at one time. It is the renowned piece of eight that became part of pirate lore. Two-Bits was worth approximately a quarter dollar.
Six Bit Ranch is a project based on two things, wine and family. After retiring my Grandfather bought a farm and lovingly named it "Six Bit Ranch". It carried a dual meaning, it may not have been an expensive farm, but it was one that stood the test of time, it was quality. He was a man of quality. That's exactly what you will get with our wine, history and quality.
Appearance:
Kind of a branded leather look on the label, complete with leather texture imaging. Look to the back label for the soulful thoughts and edifications. The wine is deep and dark, looking youthful with shades of purple and black.
Nose:
Skin of black cherry, and black cherry fruit. Roasted almonds, exotic dark berry aromatics, vanilla oak, Provençale mustard, Mom’s homemade jam, soy and pleasantly rich and enjoyable patchouli oil.
Texture:
Feeling handsome and sophisticated on the entry, the generous Cabernet fruit is held in check with an edgy but correct dose of tannin and fruit borne acids. Drying finish is slightly reluctant to let the whole package shine, but a few years in the bottle will fix that.
Flavors:
Like a freshly baked rhubarb pie right out of the oven. Add black cherry, black raspberry and that the pie crust/pie dough flavor. Exotic wood treatment brings vanilla and a hint of smoke. Finding blueberries, notes of clove and overall yumminess!
Serving Suggestions:
Yes, a few years in the bottle will reward those with patience. Get six bottles of Six Bit.
2020 Gigondas, “Les Mourres” Domaine Notre Dame des Pallieres
Growing Region Southern Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition 80% Grenache, 10% Each Syrah & Mourvedre
Fermentation Concrete Vats
Alcohol Content 15%
Suggested Retail $32.00
WineSellar Club Price $29.69
Broad Strokes: 93 Points Vinous
Domaine Notre Dame des Pallières is a very old family estate, whose name comes from a place of pilgrimage visited by the Provençal people in the middle-ages who believed that the fountain on the property would protect them from the plague.
Claude Roux and his cousin Jean-Pierre have so many generations of Gigondas wine making experience in their family that they don’t know exactly how many of their relatives have been involved up to now – Antique writings suggest that this Domain existed in the 900’s. Fortunately, this tradition is continuing with Claude’s children, Isabelle and Julien, gradually taking over the day-to-day responsibilities of farming, production, and administration. Vineyard holdings total 74 acres in Gigondas, Sablet, and Cotes du Rhone.
When asked about their methods they smile and explain that they are simply following the traditional methods of the family members that came before them.
Appearance:
Classic and very much admired and appreciated the embossing on the bottle. Is there another wine region in the world that collectively does this? So cool! Nice readable label, feeling very French. The wine has a red apple skin hue, even throughout, no opaqueness.
Nose:
Give me Herbs de Provence! Strawberry, fresh cherry fruit with notes of black raspberry, darkened soil, black pepper, black olive and hot stones.
Texture:
Couldn’t hope for more. Although it is medium in body, it almost feels weightless upon entering the palate. In contrast, the middle palate has an elegant, beautiful richness to it, defying the high level of alcohol level. Long and smooth in the mouth, with nice firming acids.
Flavors:
Slow roasted beef/lamb element kicks off the flavor wheel. The nose of strawberry, cherries, pomegranate, and black raspberry show up in the mouth. So do the Herbs de Provence, with cardamom, cinnamon, and anise. The slow roasted beef/lamb seems to suggest and amazing beef sauce with mushrooms.
Serving Suggestions:
Lamb/steak with a beef/mushroom sauce, right? I’m saving six bottles for 2029 and beyond.
2018 Summers Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Reserve
Growing Region Oakville, Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $75.00
WineSellar Club Price $67.49
Broad Strokes:
Jim Summers originally purchased a 28-acre vineyard in Knights Valley in 1987. Knights Valley is located northwest of Calistoga, between Mount St. Helena and the Alexander Valley. At that time it was primarily Merlot grapes planted on the property 30 years ago by Dan Duckhorn, with some Muscat Canelli. The first production of Summers Ranch Reserve Merlot was the 1992 vintage. We currently produce 900 cases. We also make Petite Sirah from the Knights Valley estate. As Knights Valley is one of Sonoma’s warmest appellations; its volcanic soils and close proximity to the Napa Valley, have led to increased interest in Bordeaux varietals from the appellation in recent years.
Appearance:
I like the presentation of the package. Direct, to the point, identifiable, though hard to read the family crest on the side. Deep punt, not an over-sized bottle, but speaks to a durable, age-worthy wine inside. The wine is black at the core, magenta on the rim, with clear curtains dripping down slowly in the bowl.
Nose:
Kind of an old-world mid-seventies style Cabernet Sauvignon, that being not too heavily extracted or oak laden. Rather, it is open and grainy, gentle, and smooth. Solid Cabernet fruit, with spearmint, bramble, hot stones, rocks, and I even got the scent of dry beach sand on a sunny day. The surfer in me still exists I suppose.
Texture:
Medium in body and weight. The astringency persists from start to finish. Again, the style is old-world, and I believe it has the structure and body to hold and improve for the next decade or two. Keeps expanding in the palate.
Flavors:
A lot going on here: Black cherry fruit with tobacco and tree bark, ash, smoke and Moroccan spices are at the forefront. I got some essence of black tea, spearmint/juicy fruit gums, caramel and chocolate, sweet vanilla oak and black walnuts. A reduction of pomegranate juice comes through towards the finish. Roasted almonds in butter, how’s that for a clincher?
Serving Suggestions:
Drinking wonderfully in its current state, I would set some down for ten years.
Akoho Misy Sakamalao
(Chicken Thighs with Garlic & Ginger)
I am a big fan of chicken thighs. They are typically easy to prepare, are versatile (grill, roast, sauté) and takes to sauces and marinades well.
This is a recipe that is so very easy to prepare and takes just a small amount of time unless you choose the option to marinate the chicken overnight.
This is great with Jasmine rice with coconut milk and a side salad.
Also this recipe works well with both red and white wines:
Racy Sauvignon Blancs, Pinot Noirs and Merlots.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 6 Cloves of garlic, finely minced
- 2 Tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger
- 1 Teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken thighs
- 2-3 tablespoons coconut oil
Method:
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In a large bowl, stir together the garlic, ginger and salt until combined. Add the chicken to the bowl and, using your hands, rub the aromatics all over the chicken.
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If you have time, cover the bowl and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
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When ready to cook the chicken, warm a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat until you can hold your hand about 5 inches above it for no longer than 2 seconds.
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Add the oil and heat until it shimmers.
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Add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally, until deeply browned and cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes, adjusting the heat under the pan as necessary, if the garlic and ginger start to burn.
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Divide the chicken among plates and serve warm.