Wine Club Newsletter - March 2023
The Magic of Unreasonable Hospitality
Here is an article we shared with our staff recently. The title is a bit confusing at first, but reading through it makes great sense. It is a goal we strive for at The WineSellar & Brasserie. Hope you agree!
-- Gary Parker
The Magic of Unreasonable Hospitality
Will Gaurdia
One of my Dad’s favorite quotes is “adversity is a terrible thing to waste.” He’s quick to remind me that we can’t control what life throws at us, but we can always control what we learn from it, how we let it push us, and how we react to it.
These days it feels like our world is facing some pretty hefty doses of adversity. Between pandemics, seemingly unprecedented political division, global conflicts, and so much more, there is an abundance of anxiety out in the world—and in the restaurant industry. But here’s the good news: All of us in restaurants can help take the lead in how we collectively react to it. We can all be a big part of the solution.
For nearly a decade I was the co-owner of Eleven Madison Park in New York City. In my time there I would talk constantly to my teams about the beautiful opportunity we had to create our own little magical world in a world that needed more magic; how we could help people put the world on pause, whether to celebrate the great moments in their lives or to give them the grace to forget their most difficult ones.
Over the years I developed a strategy called “unreasonable hospitality” that helped us create that magical world for people. It also earned us the number-one spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. The concept inspired my new book, Unreasonable Hospitality: The Remarkable Power of Giving People More Than They Expect.
In short, unreasonable hospitality is being as relentlessly intentional about how you make people feel as you are in pursuit of the product you serve—and it’s something that can take not only our restaurants but also our society, to new and greater heights.
I believe a great restaurant’s primary focus should be relationships. The food, the service, and the design are merely ingredients in the recipe of human connection; our reason for being is to make people feel seen, to give them a sense of belonging, and to make them feel welcome.
I’ve always believed if you do this with the people on your team, they pay it forward to your guests, who in turn pay it forward to other people in their lives. Because here’s the thing: Kindness is addictive. Once you know how good it feels to receive hospitality, you can’t help but want to give it to others.
This is why I believe there is such profound nobility and importance to our word “hospitality.” We can make the world a nicer place simply by being really nice to everyone who walks through our doors.
But it’s even more scalable than that! Because businesses far beyond restaurants have the opportunity to create their own little magical worlds; every business can make the choice to be in the hospitality industry. In fact, some out there already have. They are few and far between, but they exist.
I was in the most unreasonably hospitable Uber recently that had a big sign that offered water, to play whatever music you’d like, and to drive any route. It said, “I’m here to help and will do everything I can to help make your time in my vehicle an efficient and enjoyable experience.” The driver created this little magical world where I was not in a great mood when I got in it, and by the time I got out of it I was.
Hospitality isn’t the only thing that’s going to solve the world’s problems. But when you consider how many restaurants there are in America, how many people we collectively serve each day, and how many people those people connect with once they leave our dining rooms, you quickly start to see that the ripple effect we have is extraordinary. If as many of us as possible shifted our focus to hospitality, on creating our own little magical worlds, the impact it could have would be exponential.
Imagine if the graciousness we gave to people in our dining rooms not only inspired people to extend it to the people in their lives, but to make that the focus of their businesses as well? There is no limit to the number of people we can positively impact.
Unreasonable hospitality is something much bigger than restaurants, so all of us have this unbelievable opportunity—this responsibility—to be the industry that starts spreading it.
Celebrated restaurateur Will Guidara is the former co-owner of Make It Nice, the hospitality group that included the acclaimed Eleven Madison Park, the NoMad restaurants, and Davies and Brook at Claridges Hotel in London.
He is also co-founder of the Welcome Conference and the Independent Restaurant Coalition; he published his first book, Unreasonable Hospitality, in October; and his first television show, The Big Brunch, will air on HBO Max this month.
...
Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2021 Cotes du Rhone Blanc, ‘Les Cassagnes’, Ch. La Nerthe
Growing Region Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier & Marsanne
Fermentation Concrete Vats & Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $29.00
WineSellar Club Price $25.19
Broad Strokes:
Château La Nerthe is in contention for being one of the oldest estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The estate was first purchased by the Tulle de Villefranche family in 1560. The historic Château was built in 1736. Château La Nerthe deserves credit for being one of the first estates to bottle their own wine. This took place to some extent starting in 1784. Château La Nerthe is one of the first, if not the first estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape to export their wine outside of France. Another first that belongs to the estate is that Château La Nerthe began the practice of destemming 100% of their vines in the 1800’s. By this point in time, Château La Nerthe was the most expensive wine from the Southern Rhône. The grapes for Les Cassagnes de La Nerthe Blanc are grown on the highest terraces of the Domaine de la Renjarde vineyard in the Côtes du Rhône appellation, surrounded by green oak forest.
Appearance:
I saw this label and smiled. Clear message, special designation, easy to read, from one of my favorite Rhone Valley producers. And it is a white wine from Rhone, which is only about 10% of their total production. Clear, brilliant straw coloring with oily-like curtains dripping down the glass.
Nose:
Oh my gosh, I’m in love! A floral, dreamy perfume of white peach, cantaloupe, vanilla, toasted biscuit, tangerine, honey, candle wax . . . white pepper, granite.
Texture:
Medium in body, full on fruit and character. Opulent, heady, lush palate entry firmed up by (white) tannins, firm acidity, and a line of saline/mineral. Long in the palate.
Flavors:
As the surfers may say, ‘we’re riding the nose’. Peach flavor is dominant, but not sweet, as it is held up by the granite, mineral and fine line of acid. Everything else from the nose is in the flavor profile, I might add a touch of banana to the cantaloupe, vanilla, toasted biscuit, butterscotch, tangerine, honey, candle wax and white pepper. GAWD, I love this!
Serving Suggestions:
I am just going to buy and then drink a lot of this wine. What a privilege!
2019 Tenuta di Sesta 'Poggio d'Arna' IGT Toscana
Growing Region Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany, Italy
Varietal Composition 40% Sangiovese, 30% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot
Fermentation 8 Months French & Slavonian Oak
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $29.00
WineSellar Club Price $20.69
Broad Strokes: 90 Points Robert Parker, 90 Winecritics.com
The Estate dates back to 714 A.D. After a number of centuries of changing owners, in 1966, the first bottles of Brunello from the Tenuta di Sesta Estate were produced by Giuseppe Ciacci, father of current owner Giovanni Ciacci. At the time, there were only twelve bottlers and, for this reason, the Tenuta di Sesta Estate is recognized as one of the historical estates in the territory of Montalcino. New “modern” agronomic management with respect to the past adapting to climactic changes over time accompanied by traditional ageing in Slavonian oak barrels to preserve original features. In the vineyard: our focus is on growing grapes that, according to the physical and chemical characteristics of each vineyard, achieve good freshness through meticulous management of the leaf canopy around the grapes as well as concentration through cluster thinning of excess bunches.
Appearance:
Typically, I like landscape scenes of the winery etc. on the label, but this one is not artistically successful as one would hope. And the winery name gets lost at the bottom. The font on the back label could use a tune up as well. OK, OK, it’s the wine! Almost black at the core, dark ruby red edges.
Nose:
Very dense and focused aroma is quite closed for fifteen minutes after opening. It then draws out large, with black fruits, hot tar, serious dose of spices, touches of eucalyptus and herbs, and finally to black licorice. It’s an animal.
Texture:
Feeling concentrated in the early going, but the entry is smooth, almost mild for the power this wine has. Quite agreeable mid palate, balance is delightful, tannins are well integrated.
Flavors:
I have to keep reminding myself this is an Italian wine. I think the Cabernet Franc dominates, with chunky, herbal fruit, black cherry, and the Sangiovese provides the smoothness of this powerhouse. Leather, oak, deep spices and herbs.
Serving Suggestions:
Excellent with a wide selection of food: red meats, cheeses, handmade pasta with meat and tomato sauce, cold cuts, and traditional soups.
2017 Dm. Rabasse Charavin, Cotes du Rhone Village, Plan de Dieu Cuvee les Cailloux
Growing Region Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition 70% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre
Fermentation Concrete Vats
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $31.49
Broad Strokes:
One of the important estates of the Southern Rhône, Domaine Rabasse-Charavin produces a range of fine wines from its 40 hectare (approximately 100 acres) of vineyards spread over the communes of Cairanne, Rasteau and Violes. The estate is run by Corinne Couturier, with the help of her daughter Laure since 1993 – the fifth generation in the family to make wine at the Domaine.
Both women are leading personalities in the southern Rhône, known for their serious, concentrated, traditionally made wines from old vines.
Farming/vinification practices: certified ‘Haute Valeur Environnementale’. The reds are bottled unfined and unfiltered, which adds to their richness and natural typicity. In order to preserve the maximum amount of fruit, all cuvées are aged in concrete tanks – stainless steel tanks are only used for storage. Whites and roses are fined with clay. All wines are vegan.
Appearance:
A busy looking label that says a lot, and I really find quite intriguing. Looking at it makes me want to know more about the wine. The wine is dense in a black/garnet robe, very dark in the middle.
Nose:
A concentrated, jam-packed waft of black fruits and earthen soil seem to jump from the glass. Black pepper, red cherries come forward, as the wine gains refinement. Notes of fresh herbs, thyme, and even eucalyptus.
Texture:
A palate entry that at first seems a bit rustic, but then takes on a nice almost fresh-like roundness to it, even a touch of elegance.
Flavors:
Red and black fruits pop up right away. It feels like you are in the Rhone Valley itself, with tastes of Herbs of Provence, a bit of rustic notes, with earthen soil, black and white pepper, spices, and hot stones.
Serving Suggestions:
50-Year-Old vines make this wine special. Have it with grilled lamb: you will be in France!
2018 Atlas Peak Super Tuscan Blend
Growing Region Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Sangiovese
Fermentation 30 Months in French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.4%
Suggested Retail $29.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
Atlas Peak Wines was founded in 1987, 5 years before the AVA was designated, with the intent to make world class wine. High altitudes, specific soils & a unique climate proved to be very conducive for growing premium Cabernet Sauvignon, our hero varietal.
Bob Pepi sold the Robert Pepi label and winery to Kendall-Jackson in 1994, leaving Bob free to take his considerable winemaking knowledge around the world as a prized consultant, and subsequently hired by Atlas Peak Winery. With over 60 harvests under his belt, and considerable wine business background and acumen, Bob has a combination of skills and expertise that have made him a valuable asset.
Appearance:
“The label draws inspiration from ancient Greek mythology, namely the story of Atlas; a Titan condemned to hold up the sky and heavens for eternity.” I really like the packaging. Very strong message, the inlays, images, colors, all work for me. I like the characterization of “American Tuscan Blend” too! Dark magenta with an almost opaque core.
Nose:
Red and blackberry fruit pops through the nice toasty oak. Excellent balance there. Juniper and spice, with black pepper, roasted walnuts, herb notes of sage and basil, and vanilla cream.
Texture:
Medium in weight and body. The wine has a very pleasant, intriguing, balanced feel in the mouth. The Sangiovese (elegant acid, sometimes silken) seems to gather more of the texture than the Cabernet Sauvignon does. Smooth/beautiful start to finish.
Flavors:
A lot of red fruits and wood elements here. Strawberry, red raspberry, plum (ripe), roasted red peppers, and even ripe, organic, center cut tomatoes. Fine wood treatments such as tobacco, smoke, leather, and vanilla. Hints of dark earth, dried roses, perfume, and solid red cherry and chocolate.
Serving Suggestions:
This is wonderful with just about anything you would find on the Italian table! Pasta, pizza, hard cheese, and great on the grilled meats as well!
2019 Laird Pinot Noir, Phantom Ranch
Growing Region Los Carneros, Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation 10 Months in 42% New French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.6%
Suggested Retail $60.00
WineSellar Club Price $52.19
Broad Strokes: 90 Wine Spectator
From the Winery: For consulting winemakers Paul Hobbs and Julian Gonzalez, the attraction to help the Laird’s craft their own wines began simply with their family. With Ken having over 40 years in the business, they recognized that he truly understood the ‘ins-and-outs’ of the industry and were able to meet the unique trends and challenges of the wine business. Paul and Julian saw Ken’s determination and knew he was in it for the long run, not simply for hobby’s sake. They also believed the combined vineyard expertise of Justin and Ken was tough to beat. Lastly, there was a shared vision and goal to produce great, estate wines.
The site got its name from vineyard workers that had reported seeing children between the rows of vines, and when approached, they would vanish.
Appearance:
The familiar Laird Family Estate label is distinctive and attractive, and pops very well with all dark/black packaging. I like the sensible yet somewhat larger, heavier bottle, sending the message of “quality within”. Pale ruby coloring still has some swatches of youthful purple and red hues. The wine bleeds out to clear on the rim.
Nose:
Very ripe black plum, with solid notes of black cherry, black pepper and vanilla oak. A hint of root beer and Indian spices are dainty yet captivating. The notes of wood surface as the wine opens, taking on lovely complexities.
Texture:
Medium to medium full-bodied (for a Pinot Noir), with a refined, delicate line of acid. The fruit comes forward in a velvety and opulent fashion, gliding through your palate all the way to the substantially long, lingering finish.
Flavors:
Lovely Pinot Noir fruit flavors, featuring very ripe black plum, dark cherries, red raspberry, and spices of nutmeg and cinnamon. The sense of root beer and cola follows the initial flavor profile, with some pie dough, brambleberry, black pepper and again the ripe plum fruit. The finish is clean and mouth-watering. FOUR HOURS LATER. INCREDIBLE!!!!
Serving Suggestions:
Nearly four years old and tasting and looking youthful. Put some down for 6-10 years!
2019 Santenay “Clos Genets”, Guy & Yvan Dofouleur
Growing Region Santenay, Burgundy, France
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation 12 Months in 33% New French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $57.00
WineSellar Club Price $50.39
Broad Strokes:
Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur was established on the slopes of Nuits-Saint-Georges in 1596 and is currently managed by Yvan Dufouleur and his uncle Xavier. The Dufouleur family sold the negociant arm of their business, “Dufouleur Père et Fils,” in 2006, wanting to focus exclusively on estate bottled wines. Four hundred years is a long time for any winery, and through the centuries the family has acquired a whopping 28 hectares of prime vineyard sites extending from Fixin to Santenay.
Their portfolio includes the exclusive ownership of Fixin Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru. Farming is natural, and cellar work is hands-off. These sensory, revelatory wines are a must for anyone interested in distinctive Burgundy.
Clos Genets is located on a 3.3-acre plot on top of the village of Santenay. The plot is on a sloped hill with eastern-facing sun exposure with 37-year-old vines.
Appearance:
Great looking package, beautiful bottle shape, subtle color scheme, all very clear except “Clos Genets” font is too small. Lovely ruby and garnet hue spread evenly throughout the wine. Rich looking curtains going down the glass.
Nose:
Black raspberry and very ripe cranberry aromatics hover over allspice, cinnamon, clove, and a bit of toasted bread. The flowery nuances of violets and rose petals are further bolstered by a well-integrated scent of wood.
Texture:
Good fruit intensity evolves from this medium weighted Pinot Noir. Smooth mouthfeel with fine acids, it feels suave but still youthful, robust even. Fruit fills the mouth and deliciously lingers allowing for a long, noteworthy contemplation.
Flavors:
Black raspberry fruit is intense as it fully complements the classic Pinot Noir subtleties. The taste of redness, raspberry, ripe cranberry, red currant is entwined with allspice, clove cinnamon, and even a touch of blueberry. Wood notes and toast as well.
Serving Suggestions
This wine will offer more suaveness and complexities with about 5-10 years in our cellars!
Tuscan Baked Beans
(Fagioli All’uccelletto)
This month we have two Super Tuscan wines, as well as two wines from the Rhone Region in our wine clubs. I thought it would be appropriate to have a Tuscan Bean dish for this month’s recipe.
Tuscany is a region famous for its plethora of bean dishes – in fact, its inhabitants have even earned themselves the nickname 'mangiafagioli' (bean eaters), so they certainly know what they're doing when it comes to the art of cooking beans.
Ingredients:
Beans
- 6 oz of cannellini beans, soaked in salted cold water overnight
- 1 bulb of garlic, cut in half horizontally
- 1 sprig of sage
- 1/2 onion
Fagioli All’uccelletto (Bird Style Beans)
- 4 oz of extra virgin olive oil
- 6 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 sprigs of sage, leaves picked and finely chopped
- 2/3 pint of passata (tomato puree)
- Salt to taste
- Pepper to taste
Method:
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Drain the soaked beans and place in a pan with the halved garlic bulb, sage and onion. Top up with water and season with a generous pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 35–45 minutes or until the beans become tender
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Drain, reserving the cooking water. Discard the onion, garlic and sage. Preheat an oven to 325 Fahrenheit
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Heat the oil in a casserole and gently fry the garlic and sage until soft. Be careful not to let them crisp up – you only want to flavor the oil
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Once the garlic is soft, add the beans, stir gently to coat in the oil, then add the passata and top up with enough of the reserved bean cooking liquor to cover the beans
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Season with salt and pepper then place the lid on the casserole. Cook in the oven for 30 minutes, then remove the lid and cook for a further 10 minutes to thicken up the sauce, if needed