Wine Club Newsletter - June 2023
The Ten “S” of Wine
- Sharing
- Sight
- Swirl
Continuing my series . . .
The Ten “S” of Wine
4. Smell
This is where, for the novice wine drinker, things can get a little intimidating. It seems like your fellow wine drinkers can come up with descriptors and adjectives that you aren’t getting or are not aware of. We ALL receive different sensory signals, so be confident that what you are smelling/experiencing from the wine is not wrong.
Sometimes you will hear somebody use a descriptor, and then you get it. Sometimes the reason for that is you either weren’t open to it, or you didn’t have the vocabulary to define the aroma. To increase your aromatic (and tasting) vocabulary, Google “UC Davis Wine Wheel”. The brainchild of Ann Noble, Ph.D., has greatly improved my ability to define aromatics, tastes, and identify what it is about the wine I am experiencing.
The Davis Wine Wheel is a circular graph that illustrates a list of common wine aromatics, defined in categories. The categories then offer (numerous) more specific terms to train you. Some of the categories are: Fruit, (citrus, berry), Spice (clove), Floral (violets) and a number of others.
If you simply look at the Davis Wheel while you are smelling the wine, you will find descriptors that match what the wine is presenting to you. Once you identify that aroma, it becomes programmed in your mind, and you will be able to pick out that characteristic in the future.
Using the Aroma Wheel six to ten times will greatly increase your confidence and ability to understand and describe what it is you are smelling from a wine.
An interesting note for me, is that I discovered years ago I get different aromatic sensations when I isolate one nostril from pulling any scent into it. I do this by pressing the edge of the wine glass against one nostril to close it off, and inhale with the other side.
Why Are Some Wines More Expensive Than Others?
But before you plop down your hard-earned money on a savory bottle of red or a bottle of white, you might want to understand better why wines are priced the way they are. Contrary to popular belief, it's not just because they taste better — or because they're older than your grandpa.
We asked Brianne Engles, the head winemaker at Chamisal Vineyards in San Luis Obispo, California, to shed some light on this mysterious topic. Chamisal specializes in handcrafted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, grown on an 82-acre estate in the Edna Valley AVA. Their offerings range from $35 for their estate-grown wines to $100 for their luxury icon wines. Engles says cost boils down to three key factors — farming, oak, and quality.
Farming
Harvesting grapes at a vineyard can be costly, including planting, irrigation, and labor. At boutique wineries like Chamisal, individual "blocks" or a designated group of premium vines in a vineyard require more TLC.
"Our highest producing, highest quality blocks tend to have lower yields," explains Engles. "When you have lower yields, your cost of farming is higher."
This is because low-yield grapes result in lower production, leading to more scarcity of product. All the pruning, canopy management, and harvesting at Chamisal are performed by hand and follow Organic farming practices, which require multiple vineyards passes throughout the growing season. These labor-intensive elements contribute to the increased cost of farming.
Oak
Oak aging is a popular practice among winemakers because it adds complexity and smoothness to the wine. Chamisal wine is aged in oak barrels imported from France. In the barrel, the wine is exposed to oxygen, which helps to soften the tannins and develop the flavors. The oak barrels also impart unique flavors to the wine, which consumers might say smells like vanilla or baking spices.
The oak barrels at Chamisal are used judiciously to allow for the transfer of oxygen into the wine, elevating the unique character of each grape variety and vineyard site's soil. But oak aging is a complex and time-consuming process. "New oak is expensive. So if you have a higher percentage of new French oak, it can lead to a more expensive wine," says Engles.
Time is also a factor. Some wines are typically aged for 12 to 18 months in oak barrels. This practice takes space and money to ensure that a bottle of wine is appropriately nurtured.
Quality
The quality of the grapes coming out of specific blocks is also a factor in the cost of the wine. But when winemakers measure quality, they're not just focusing on the taste. At Chamisal, they evaluate the wine that comes out of each block in the cellar and do an extensive evaluation.
"We smell it, sip it, give it grades," explains Engles. "Winemakers are not just sitting there writing flowery descriptors. We're determining does it have intensity, are the tannins in balance, does it have enough fruit, does it have all the guts and pieces that make a very high quality."
All these factors make the perfect bottle of wine harder to achieve, and scarcity causes the price to go up. (J. Small, Entrepreneur Magazine)
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This may take a couple/few newsletters to get through all ten of the “S’s”. Let me know if you are enjoying them; I am planning to make a video of this if things align.
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Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2022 Fableist Sauvignon Blanc, Fable 053, The Farmer’s Sons
Growing Region Santa Barbara County, California
Varietal Composition 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation 75% Stainless, 25% Neutral Wood
Alcohol Content 14.4%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $20.69
Broad Strokes:
A story of brothers, who, by working together, learn more than they planned, & gain more than they hoped. The Fableist is a collaboration between winemakers Curt Schalchlin and Andrew Jones. Curt, owner and vintner of the heralded winery Sans Liege, is known for his critically acclaimed Rhone varietal wines. Andrew, winemaker of Field Recordings, spends his days planning and planting vineyards and has stood foot in just about every vineyard on the Central Coast. Together, they produce The Fableist, a collaboration that gives special attention to the craft and story behind each wine. Each bottle has been artfully designed and inspired by one of Aesop’s many fables.
Just as each of his timeless vignettes has a moral, we believe that every blend has its own story to tell, its own lessons to teach.
Appearance:
The lovely, distinctive graphics of the sticks (grapevines here) from the Fable 53 are artistic and delicate. On the back label, the larger font harkens back to one-hundred-plus years ago looking like a poster from a magic show, contrasting the front label. The wine is pale yellow, and it drips slowly down the glass.
Nose:
Solid, above the glass aromatics of white peach, honey, citrus of orange and grapefruit, as well as kiwi. Notes of mineral and wet stones.
Texture:
Medium full in body and weight. Feels luscious and full with a tinge of youthful, fresh, crispy acid. Rounded, crowd-pleasing fruit balances well against the acids, giving us a lovely, complete finish.
Flavors:
The white peach fruit is zealous, and giving ride to flavors of papaya, pineapple, mango, and very ripe kiwi fruits. Winery suggests gooseberry, which I also get. Note touches of fresh herbs, green peas, and sugar snap peas,
Serving Suggestions:
Totally versatile with foods or on its own . . .
2022 Meadowcroft Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
Growing Region Anderson Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 13.8%
Suggested Retail $38.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Meadowcroft is the namesake of Winegrower Tom Meadowcroft. The meaning of Meadowcroft is a fertile field or meadow and croft refers to a cultivated area that has been nurtured over time. The honeybee on the label symbolizes this conscientious work and the process of transformation from wine grapes into outstanding wine.
My hope is to create wines with a Sonoma pulse that express the complexity found in European varietals. I invite you to raise a glass of Meadowcroft and wish you bountiful gatherings and many happy toasts!
Appearance:
I like the overall package, though it’s not striking enough to be put on a shelf in the grocery store. I am thankful for that, this is not a grocery store wine, it is much more soulful. And I love the screw cap. The honeybee on the label symbolizes this conscientious work and the process of transformation from wine grapes into outstanding wine. The wine has an attractive garnet hue that goes to clear on the edges.
Nose:
Lovely Pinot Noir essence emanates from the precise, first-rate aromatics. Scents of clove with Asian spices. Cola, strawberry, bits of leather, black cherry, and some solid notes of judicious wood treatment.
Texture:
The 2022 Meadowcroft has the classic, velvety smooth entry we find characteristic of superior Pinot Noir. The gentle entry weaves its way to become elegant yet weighty fruit in the middle palate. The finish is persistent and smooth.
Flavors:
Mirroring the nose, the Pinot Noir fruit essence, clove especially, Asian spices, wood treatment, leather and black cherry all make hay. Other flavor notes include red cherry pie, cranberry, sweet cedar, and savory notes of vanilla and mushroom.
Serving Suggestions:
Mushroom risotto would be a total hit. Or, roast duck or duck confit for immediate consuming. Otherwise, I would cellar this wine for four to six years.
2019 Petite Sirah, Midnight Cellars, “Eclipse”
Growing Region Willow Creek District, Paso Robles, Ca.
Varietal Composition 100% Petite Sirah
Fermentation 28 Months Neutral French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $58.00
WineSellar Club Price $32.39
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Passion for classic, world-class wines drives Labyrinth's winemaking goal to craft
Midnight Cellars is home to the Hartenberger Family, and their small production of award-winning wines. The 28-acre estate is situated in the newly established Willow Creek District, known for its strong maritime influence, mountainous landscape, and calcareous soils. The climate, topography and soil composition create an environment for growing quality, low yield, sustainable farmed grapes. As a family-owned winery for about 20 years, Midnight Cellars prides itself in providing fine wines at enjoyable prices.
The Paso Robles Willow Creek District sits to the West of Paso Robles and Templeton. The topography is high elevation mountainous bedrock slopes across a more erodible member of the Monterey Formation.
Appearance:
I like the graphic with the brushstroke of the sky with the old man in the moon style. Like the Moon image on foil. Screwcap, Yay! Back label info, YAY! The wine is very dark/black in color and has black/dark ruby rim. I do love the Midnight Cellars packaging.
Nose:
Super black fruit aromas: blackberry, black cherry, black currant and yes, black pepper. Throw in some black licorice too! Balsamic richness, raspberry, pomegranate, and a touch of spicy smoke.
Texture:
The very big and powerful entry is not shy, say hello! It seems so large that you almost have to swallow the wine to get a full understanding of what this monster is all about. Not overly harsh, just dense, and inky.
Flavors:
The everything black from the nose applies to the flavor profile as well. Blackberry, black cherry, black currant, and black pepper all there. There are nuances of blueberry fruit, fresh ripe raspberry, cherry balsamic and solid notes of fine wood treatment. Hints of smoke, earth, and leather.
Serving Suggestions:
Will keep for ten years plus, but have it with BBQ or a fatty, flavorful steak.
2018 TreeSky Red Blend, Kaleidos Winery
Growing Region Paso Robles, Ca.
Varietal Composition Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
Fermentation Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 13.9%
Suggested Retail $45.00
WineSellar Club Price $35.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery:
Kaleidos is Steve Martell's passion, encompassing many elements of his life, including family, Rhone varietal wines, and the rolling hills of west Paso Robles.
This project came about after he spent time working for both Clos Pepe Vineyards in Santa Rita Hills and Summerwood Winery in Paso Robles. He learned from winemakers like Wes Hagan and Scott Hawley, and ultimately decided to forge his own path.
Steve bought 24 acres of beautiful westside Paso Robles property in 2004, where he parked his Airstream trailer, and rolled up his sleeves. He has planted about 2500 vines on a little more than an acre and has five more acres to cover.
Appearance:
The label is a bold, unique statement in the world of marketing wine. No words on the “Front” label, just a lovely image of a tree and the sky. All the details of the wine are on the back label. The story you read there and on the web is very sentimental and deserves our attention, Screw Cap!!! The wine is quite pretty, almost purple, black at the core.
Nose:
Straight-forward ripe black and blue fruits of blackberry and blueberries. The aromatics are clean and focused. Notes of red licorice and cooked red bell pepper . . . black pepper. Vanilla oak and refined wood notes.
Texture:
Medium in body and weight. The entry still has youthful acids and tannins, which eventually give way to a well-balanced mid palate. Kind of a lip smacker/crowd pleaser juicy thingy. The finish males you want to come back for more.
Flavors:
The wine keeps growing as it gets more air. The fresh fruits are highlighted by the blueberry and blackberry aspects. A touch of red cherry comes through as well. Vibrant. Some gravel and hot stones provide a savory note. I really enjoy the Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot blend, classy and reasonably priced.
Serving Suggestions:
Enjoy this wine now and over the summer!
2015 Pinot Noir, Native 9, Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard
Growing Region Santa Maria Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation New French Oak Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 14.3 %
Suggested Retail $75.00
WineSellar Club Price $53.09
Broad Strokes: 95 Points Wine Enthusiast
If you are not familiar with Rancho Ontiveros and Native 9, its backstory will impress you as much as the wine itself. The Ontiveros family has roots in this part of California dating back to before it was a US state. The first Ontiveros, Josef, arrived in “Alta California” in 1781, right at the start of the period when the Mexican and Spanish governments were giving land grants to retired soldiers and others to encourage settlement of the region. The Ontiveros family originally received a tract of land in what is now Orange County, California, but subsequent generations sold it to purchase Rancho Tepusquet, in what is now northern Santa Barbara County. The famed Bien Nacido Vineyard—Santa Barbara’s, and perhaps California’s, most famous single vineyard—is located within the Rancho Tepusquet territory.
Appearance:
Big, heavy-ish style bottle, distinctive looking with its equestrian images. Reading the long story on the continuous label got me engaged in the product and caused me to dwell on their generational history. This wine has taken on the hue of bottle age, light red and leather tears of wine drip slowly down the bowl of the glass.
Nose:
Pure and varietal correct scent is subtle, as the freshness of youth has evolved into tertiary complexities. Smart streak of mineral and ash start off before revealing the handsome red fruits and Asian spices.
Texture:
The texture is a “WOW!”. Graceful, elegant, sublime is the feel in the mouth from this well aged Pinot Noir. Enters gently, almost majestic. Gains weight in the middle palate, and on the finish leaves us with a long, smooth impression.
Flavors:
Evolved red wine fruits from dark to red cherry now take on a more complex and earthy flavor profile. That equates to a revelation of wood notes: wood bark most prominent. Damp soil, fusel perhaps . . . asphalt and tar (the special flavor kind). Still alive and vibrant as it keeps changing and elaborating in the mouth.
Serving Suggestions:
Drink now and for another year, with duck and mushroom dishes.
2020 Aloxe-Corton “Valozieres”, Dm. Maldant
Growing Region Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy, France
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Barrel Fermentation
Alcohol Content 13%
Suggested Retail $75.00
WineSellar Club Price $62.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Situated in Ladoix-Serrigny, at the foot of the hill of Corton in the north of the Côte de Beaune, the Maldant’s have been making wine in Burgundy for five generations, since 1895. In 1998, Jean-Pierre Maldant decided to give up his job working for the Hospices de Beaune and devote himself entirely to his own Domaine.
His son, Pierre-François Maldant, has now succeeded him at the head of the family Domaine, where he has been making the wines since 2010. Although the family has a rich tradition and history in the region, Pierre-François is one of the new rising stars of Burgundy.
Appearance:
The label and package loos modern/contemporary, contrasting many Burgundy Domaines who have held on to their images and labels seemingly forever. Excellent back label story, another modern thought. The wine is quite dark, uncommon for Burgundy, with a beautiful edge of ruby hues.
Nose:
Extracted and dark red cherry Pinot Noir fruit parades a couple inches above the glass. Hints of smoke, toasty wood, roasted nuts, and a whiff of cumin. Dense dark fruits, and cherry cola comes to mind.
Texture:
Large and full fruited for a red wine from Burgundy, made in contemporary fashion, reflecting its packaging. Enveloping richness exhibits extracted fruit and style, leaving an expansive impression in the mouth. It is even balanced and rich in the entry, middle palate and to the completely captivating finish.
Flavors:
Very bright, very firm, and focused black and red cherry fruit. Hard to believe a grape can get to taste like this! The wood elements are subtle but provide significant flavor. Light puff of smoke, roasted nuts, and a small note of fresh herbs. I also got a root beer/cherry cola aide memoire from the days of my youth.
Serving Suggestions:
Let’s put it in the cellar for about ten years you can adore how complete it will become.
2018 Gusbourne, Brut Reserve, Kent, England
Growing Region: Kent, Appledore and Goodwood
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 46% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, 19 % Pinot Noir
Vinification (From the winery): Hand Harvested, Methode Champenoise.
Fermented in stainless tanks with a small percentage fermented in neutral oak barrels.
Aged over 2 years on the lees.
Dosage: 9 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12 %
Suggested Retail: $75.99
WineSellar Club Price: $68.39
From the Winery:
Coming from Gusbourne Estate Vineyards on a south facing escarpment in Appledore,
Kent and Goodwood in West Sussex.
“Visiting Gusbourne is absolutely magical! I took a train from London St. Pancras Station to Ashford, and then a short taxi ride, through a forrest and then you’re in Appledore! Their tasting room, The Nest is charming and the vineyards surrounding the Estate are stunning!”
- Bridget West, Champagne Master & Sommelier, WineSellar & Brasserie
Appearance:
Bright gold in color
Nose:
Ethereal aromas of pear, mandarin, and orange blossom
Texture:
Delicate mousse, with constant tiny pearls
Flavors:
Beautiful notes of citrus and orchard fruit; lemon, orange, pear with hints of ginger, and cinnamon. Freshly baked bread and apple tart tatin. Lively and fresh on the finish!
Serving Suggestions:
Coronation Chicken (created in 1953 for Queen Elizabeth II) is the perfect dish to pair as Gusbourne Brut Reserve was poured for the Coronation of King Charles III!
(We love the NY Times’ Recipe!)
2020 Argyle Brut Rose
Growing Region: Willamette Valley
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 54% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay, 10 % Pinot Noir
Vinification (From the winery): Made from hand-picked, cold-pressed grapes, bottle fermented, aged on the lees for a minimum of 3 years and 'disgorged on demand.'
Dosage: 3.5 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5 %
Suggested Retail: $30.00
WineSellar Club Price: $26.99
From the Winery:
Argyle Vintage Brut Rosé is a classically structured, sparkling wine ready to add a level of sophistication and fun to any occasion. This newest Argyle sparkling wine brings a generous, friendly approach to a wine we have been making since 1987. Knudsen Vineyard, protected in the deep volcanic soils of the Dundee Hills, brings supple depth and elegance, while Spirit Hill Vineyard, in the windy and rocky volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills, brings energy and minerality.
Appearance:
Soft pink, salmon colored with slight sparkles of gold on the rim
Nose:
Crushed raspberry and white peach skin
Texture:
Soft and velvety, with persistent bubbles
Flavors:
Pear blossoms, honeysuckle pollen, raspberry hard candy, watermelon rind with a slight brioche
Serving Suggestions:
Pairs incredibly with Tacos, even something with a slight spicy flavor or even more citrus….or grilled bacon wrapped dates would be nice.
Southwestern Rice
This is a colorful, delicious recipe that can provide not only culinary enjoyment, but it can help empty out that produce bin and canned section in your pantry. Add cubed white chicken meat or shrimp for making it a full meal.
Serves Eight
Ingredients:
- 2 ounces tablespoon olive oil
- 1 medium red or yellow bell pepper, diced
- 1 medium onion, chopped fine
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 cup uncooked long grain rice
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 16 ounces reduced-sodium chicken broth
- 2 cups fresh or canned corn
- 1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
- 2 ripe tomatoes, diced
- 2 Anaheim Chiles, diced
- 1 fresh lime
- 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped
Method:
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In a large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat.
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Add pepper and onion, sauté 3 minutes.
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Add garlic; cook and stir 1 minute.
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Stir in rice, spices and broth.
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Bring to a boil.
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Reduce heat; simmer, covered, until rice is tender.
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Stir in remaining ingredients; cook, covered, until heated through.
Protein Option:
Before rice is finished:
In a separate pan, slowly cook two tablespoons of olive oil or butter until warm.
Add a pinch of saffron and let it elaborate and color the liquid fully.
Add cubed chicken meat or shrimp and slowly warm until cooked through.
Stir into the rice when it is done.