Wine Club Newsletter - April 2012
Rosé Wine: An Under-Rated Delight
We Americans really don’t get it when it comes to Rosé wine. And I can’t blame us. We have been through the ringer with sweet, weird, fruity-sweet, funky, cheap wines that were pink or Rosé in color. We have learned to steer clear of even the concept of one being serious or perhaps even palatable.
The White Zinfandel movement decades ago didn’t help much either. Many wineries got on that band-wagon, finding a way to turn less than great grape juice into cash, as did many of the mass producers of pink wine, who found a niche of those looking for the sweet and cheap.
But today there are some excellent, thoughtful, and even exciting Rosé wines being produced in our country and around the world. The Europeans and other parts of the wine producing planet are most excepting of Rosé wines, as they have not been exposed to the drudgery we have been historically subjected to.
I am happy to say Americans are now finding the values of this versatile, enjoyable, useful, and in many cases, enlightening beverage. I have found a good number of Rosé wines to be quite excellent, and I want you to be able to share in that experience as well. Our Really good Rosé wines are all around us. True, not all Rosé wines are created equal, but the good ones are out there and are a fun find.
Check this out:
Are you aware that some Rosé wines are selling for $45 a bottle? And the wineries can’t produce enough to meet demand?
That many Rosé wines have achieved 90+ point ratings from respected critics?
That Rosé Champagnes are typically more expensive and revered than their counterparts? For instance, Dom Perignon Rosé sells for at least 50% higher than their top of the line Champagne.
And to my point, most conclusively, one of my very good friends, epicurean, wine connoisseur and travel companion, Dr. Albert Cutri, D.D.S., will pull his teeth out if you were to scorn Rosé wines, or rate his Sunday afternoon garden parties of fine food and Rosé wine anything close to a pedestrian mode. And he might do so without Novocain . . . Please don’t let that happen!
2011 Dragonette Cellars Rose (April, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Santa Ynez Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 70% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah
Fermentation: 5 Months on Lees, Neutral Barrels & Stainless Steel Barrels, Natural Yeasts
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.09
Broad Strokes:
Dragonette Philosophy:
“A properly made Rosé is the ideal wine for warm summer days, as an aperitif, or as a match for appetizers and spicy food. We also love to sip it while we cook, especially outside on the grill. Thus we take our Rosé seriously and meticulously apply all of the techniques we use on our white and red wines, most importantly, grape and site selection, lower yields, careful handling, and fermentation to complete dryness. Dry Rosé is a crisp, refreshing, expressive wine, with fruit and acidity in perfect balance to stimulate the palate.”
Appearance:
Burgundy-Pinot Noir-Rhone bottle. I really like the logo. It is an old alchemist symbol for the “elixir of life”, which takes on the appearance of an old cowhand branding iron. Perfect for their location and image, I think. Well done! The wine has just been bottled March 8, 2012, like in last month, so it will most likely develop more of that distinctive copper/salmon color over the next few months. The wine is crystal clear and very clean looking, even though it wasn’t fined or filtered.
Nose:
Nice fruit forward aromatics are delicate yet persuasive. Note strawberry, watermelon, a hint of cherry and kirsch. It is quite unique and engaging, showing a touch of herbs, ginger, ginger flowers and spicy nutmeg.
Texture:
It is medium to medium-light in body. The entry is very well balanced between fruit and acid, well beyond the quality you would expect for such a modest price tag. The acid is firm, the fruit initially restrained and then opening up with airing. The wine has a good backbone to it, with a very keen weightiness on the finish that generates a thoughtful mouth full. Conversely, it then (most enjoyably) leaves you with a delightfully refreshing sensation. Very cool, that.
Flavor:
What you smell is what you taste! Let’s see; strawberry, watermelon, a hint of cherry and kirsch a touch of herbs, ginger, ginger flowers with spicy nutmeg. I also got a bit of the Rhone varietal tastes of gravel and stone, earthiness and white pepper.
Serving Options:
This is the perfect sipper for an aperitif, served alone or with lighter appetizers. I found this wine to be both enhanced by food as well as enhancing food. I am all over this for the upcoming season of grilling or just getting a little cocktail wine in while preparing dinner.
2008 Schug Cabernet Sauvignon (April 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Sonoma Valley, California
Varietal Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $28.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes:
It is not often we can find California Cabernet Sauvignon of this quality for under $20, but here it is! Walter Schug is one of California’s longest tenured California winemakers. Walter was winemaker for Joseph Phelps Vineyards starting back in the 1970’s, where he made California’s first Bordeaux proprietary blend, Insignia, which is still to this day is a benchmark for the very best and most exciting wines made in California today. Schug also produced Joseph Phelps vineyard designates Backus Vineyards and Eislese Vineyards, which still command high scores, high demand, and high price tags. Walter left Joseph Phelps and started Shug Carneros Estate Winery in 1980.
Appearance:
Nice cut label outlining the family crest. “Schug” gets lost a little bit in that the label could use a bit more contrast in color. Still, it is a very nice looking package. The wine is vibrant red on the rim, only slightly darker in the center. It appears very clean and well made. Clear curtains drip slowly down the inside of the bowl.
Nose:
The nose is gently perfumed, with a very nice freshness to it, provoking a lively feeling. I found some fine plum fragrances, with red and black fruits, white and black pepper, coffee, mocha and clove. Lots of fun as it opens up, I’m getting underbrush, herbs wood spice, mint and eucalyptus. More spice shows up, then some chocolate and vanilla, which I always love.
Texture:
The wine is a bit angular right out of the bottle, but the youthful, assertive acids start to dissolve shortly after opening your bottle. Medium in body, and a bit lean until 30 minutes or so of airing. The acid is lively and quite present, leaving you with a exceptionally balanced, well rounded, lingering finish.
Flavor:
Look for red and black fruits, but mostly red, with raspberry, plum and cherry dominating. The vanilla and chocolate from the oak also has a nice spice to it, with a delicate dose of smoke. The black and white pepper we experienced from the nose pop in there as well.
Serving Options:
I don’t see this wine as a long-term keeper, in part because it is so charming today, and I don’t think it is built for the long haul. This fun and well balanced wine is meant to be enjoyed with grilled meats, sausages, steak, and BBQ.
2009 “R” Petit Verdot, Rundquist (April 2012 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Stanislaus County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Petit Verdot
Fermentation: 9 Months Small French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $28.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
We have never had a 100% Petit Verdot in any of our wine clubs. A Bordeaux varietal originally, Petit Verdot is most often used in the region's famous red blends to add dark violet color, stouter tannins and impart concentrated fruit flavor on the palate. However, it ripens later that Cabernet Sauvignon, so often it cannot achieve full ripeness in Bordeaux. So now we see warmer growing regions getting great results from Petit Verdot as longer growing seasons suit this varietal very well. In fact, this wine is a great example of the fine wines that can be made by Petit Verdot. This wine is definitely hedonistic!
Appearance:
A striking package in a tall slender format. (Tall slender format reminds me of days gone by). Black on dark copper foil is simplistic in approach, but as I said, striking. The wine has a fantastic deep purple coloring, black at the core, and dark magenta on the rim. The wine drips down clear inside the bowl, but it’s viscous and to the tune of 30-weight oil.
Nose:
The nose is quite exotic and sexy. Deep, dark chocolate, cherry, as well as scents of vanilla made my brain swim. Root beer/cola and maple fragrance was laced with caramel, toasty oak, roasted nuts and black pepper. It is wild, yet in control, and keeps your nose going back to the glass for more.
Texture:
Sticking with the sexy and exotic theme, the texture is seductive and creamy with very good structure. Medium full in weight, it does not attack the mouth with acid and alcohol, but delivers sensational fruit complexities with a Rolls Royce type of smooth. It made my mouth water. Interestingly, the acid that gives this wine the creamy mouth-feel that comes from acid more akin to a kiwi, or strawberry, versus the tannic, alcoholic struggle many wines battle with.
Flavor:
Let’s give it an “R” rating! I know, I know . . . Deep, dark berry fruits: boysenberry and blueberry mainly. These blackish fruits are concentrated and commanding, quite intense really. Chocolate and vanilla run through palate, reminding me of that adult ice cream sundae. Also noted roast beef, spices, caramel, black pepper and a good smoke.
Serving Options:
Give this to me anytime. Not meant to age for too long, it is designed to enjoy, today, tonight, tomorrow and yesterday. It’s fabulous folks!!! What a wine, what a price!
2008 Mueller Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Diamond Mtn. District, Napa Valley, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 100% French Oak, 40% New, 18 Months
Suggested Retail: $68.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $61.19
Broad Strokes:
Here is a real charmer. A small family winery in the highly esteemed Diamond Mountain District of Napa Valley: known for producing some of the most distinctive and finest Cabernet Sauvignons in California. When I say small, we’re talking only 200 cases of this wine was made in 2008. The family has a real nice feel to them, and to better relate, you should google the winery and read their story. Very sweet, and it’s the kind of people you just naturally pull for.
Appearance:
The label is dominated by the bold “MUELLER”. The artwork below the name represents a diamond for their Diamond Mountain District Appellation. It is subtle but effective logo, designed by Steven Sorman. The wine is opaque at the core, black, getting to very dark ruby red toward the edges. It is thick like 40-weight, and hangs on to the glass for a long time.
Nose:
When you drop your nose into the glass, you can tell immediately this is a wine of excellent quality and breeding. It has the classic aromatics of a fine California Cabernet Sauvignon: cedar, dark fruit and black cherry, vanilla and some crush of herbs. I also detected raspberry, mocha, roasted nuts, lead pencil, a good touch of mineral as well as sugar pine.
Texture:
The wine is a bit angular right out of the bottle, but the youthful, assertive acids start to dissolve shortly after opening your bottle. Full and rich, well built Cabernet structure will hold this wine in check for many years to come.
Flavor:
Quite lovely on the palate, with good solid black and red fruits, raspberry, dark cherry, black berry, wrapped in the nice sweet vanilla oak component. Mahogany wood too! And lead pencil/graphite is really cool. There is also a nice cola/root beer thing, with a hint of red licorice.
Serving Options:
At age three, it is still quite youthful, and I would say just beginning its anticipated life in the bottle of some 20 years plus. While it shows very well now, I would like to have this wine in year 2022, ten years from now. I think it will be just coming into it’s own. Enjoy!
2008 Calcareous Syrah
Growing Region: Paso Robles, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Syrah
Fermentation: 26 Months Small French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $34.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $30.59
Broad Strokes:
As you may have read in last months “Wonderful World of Wine”, I was one of forty judges at the San Diego Wine Competition. There were approximately 1,700 wines entered, and the 2008 Calcareous Syrah took FIRST PLACE, and named “Winery of the Year”. I voted for this wine as my number one, and I was really thrilled the judges had the same experience with it that I did.
I called the winery and told them I needed the wine for my beloved GP Collection Club members, and fortunately, they still had some in stock. Imagine, getting a wine of this pedigree for a mere $34 a bottle.
Appearance:
Straightforward, nice looking package overall. “Calcareous” reads clearly, and the gold/copper foil border on the label and graphic of local horizon line is a nice touch as well. Big heavy bottle gives subtle promise of quality inside the package. The wine is black at the core, dark ruby edges, and has slow dripping curtains.
Nose:
I couldn’t wait to try this again, so I opened it up the day it was delivered. Not such a good idea, as it takes time for wine to settle after transport. But after significant airing, it became the fantasy I wanted: to come full circle and deliver to my Club members. OK, it unfolded into a well-focused deep cherry, earth and dark soil, with grilled or toasted bread (yeasty). Dark fruits of course, with prune/fig/date nuances, tree bark (yeah, that’s right!). The nose just keeps going and going. It is very French like, true to the varietal, and I think possesses a touch of magic.
Texture:
Masculine, creamy, it’s a big mouthful of yummieness. It has an incredible structure for a 2008. Tasting firm and ready, it evolves into a more rounded, generous, delicious palate impression. Near perfect for me.
Flavor:
A gorgeous melding of oak, fruit and acid, sets the tone. You’ll notice the powerful dark fruits and cherry, with crushed herbs, vanilla (and caramel), gravel and hot stones. A touch of smoky bacon, spice (nutmeg), crème brulee, pumpkin, and berry compote. All well defined, in this fabulous, complex, thoughtful beverage that mankind has enjoyed for centuries. We are blessed!
Serving Options:
I am going to take a case of this and put it in my wine locker. I will drink one a year until 2024. When I drink that last one, I will be sad it’s gone, and happy to have had the opportunity to enjoy it. Heck, I’ll be in my 70’s by then. OK, something to look forward to in getting older.
Chicken Liver Salad With Rosé (Frisée Salad with Sautéed Chicken Livers, Poached Egg, Shallot and Croutons)
Chef Bruno Davaillon, The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas
I have saved this recipe ever since I saw it in the Wine Spectator last year. I absolutely love the recipe, and with us having a Rose’ in the club this month, I am delighted to share it with you. First, some background on the Chef who created the recipe, and his thoughts.
One dish on the lunch menu is lifted from Davaillon's childhood on a farm. "In my family we all had to help with everything," he recalls. "And we ate everything too." He ate chicken livers from an early age, especially in this dish made by his grandmother. "This reminds me of when I was young. It's a peasant dish, with the livers, and the egg, and was an easy Sunday late lunch."
"This is great in warm weather, outdoors, so you want chilled wine. It's really a rosé dish."
Ingredients:
- 2 frisée lettuce heads, extra-yellow
- 2 slices bacon
- 2 tablespoons shallots, minced
- 1 tablespoon Pommery mustard
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, divided 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for croutons
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- 1/2 baguette
- 4 eggs
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 12 ounces chicken livers
- 1 bunch chives, chopped
- Salt and black pepper
- Pinch fleur de sel
Method:
- Preheat oven to 375° F.
- Clean and wash the frisée; pat dry. Keep only the yellow part.
- Cut bacon in 1/4-inch pieces, sauté until crisp, fat is rendered. Remove bacon from pan, drain on paper towel.
- For the dressing, combine shallots, mustard, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic and salt and pepper to taste in a mixing bowl, and allow to infuse for 30 minutes. Remove garlic, and add bacon.
- Cut baguette into 1/2-inch cubes, drizzle with olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Spread cubes on a baking sheet in a single layer, and roast in oven until golden brown.
- Bring water to a boil in a shallow pot, and add a few drops of vinegar. Poach eggs for 3 minutes each. Reserve and keep warm on a towel.
- Clean chicken livers and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
- Heat butter in a sauté pan until brown and fragrant. Add livers, and cook for 1 minute on each side.
- Deglaze the pan with remaining tablespoon of vinegar, and pour over livers.
- Toss frisée with dressing. Add chives.
- Divide salad among 4 10-inch plates. Top each pile with a poached egg.
- Place chicken livers around salad and egg.
- Finish with croutons, black pepper and fleur de sel.
Serves 4.
Owen Dugan Issue: September 30, 2011