Wine Club Newsletter - April 2011
Too Many Sommeliers, Not Enough Training
High demand for sommeliers leaves diners in the hands of wine enthusiasts, not thoughtful servers. The rise to prominence of the professional sommelier over the last 10 to 15 years has been a boon to American gastronomy. Sommeliers have made restaurant wine experiences far more dynamic, and today offer a compelling alternative taste in wine to the one peddled by the dominant critics. But there are some potholes in the fast lane that the profession is speeding down.
Wine is serious business. Realizing this, restaurateurs nationwide have been rushing to create and expand wine programs in the last few years. This boom has created many new jobs for people capable of running midsize to large wine programs. But there's a problem: There aren't enough such people around. Consequently, inexperienced sommeliers are winding up in jobs that they're simply not ready for.
One restaurant director I spoke with recently complained: "My sommelier just sold a guy who only wanted Solaia a bottle of nebbiolo from the 1950s. He took the advice, but didn't like the wine at all, sent it back, we had to absorb the cost and get him the bottle of wine he originally wanted." That's a loss for the restaurant on more than a financial level; the sommelier discomfited a valued customer. Young sommeliers tend to be so enraptured with wine that they confuse selling wines to customers with a form of a self-expression. More experienced somms put their own preferences on the back burner and make certain the customer gets what he wants.
I recently was struck by another anecdote: An inexperienced sommelier at a new restaurant was attending to a customer who was known to be the city's most prominent restaurant critic. The critic asked the sommelier to pair a couple of wines-by-the-glass with his meal and later was astonished and outraged that the sommelier had served the two most expensive glasses of white and red on the list, at $18 and $24 respectively. Of course this showed up in the review. A more experienced sommelier would have presented the guest with a couple of price options. Instead, just as the restaurant was getting going, its wine program got a needless black eye.
In wine circles, such stories abound. Another sommelier, eager to show off, withheld the wine list and just asked the guests to describe the style of wine they wanted; but presenting her choice, she put the guest in the awkward position of having to ask the price. Another young sommelier was so eager about a rare, highly coveted Grand Cru Burgundy that the restaurant had received, that he sold it the night it arrived. The customers, not particularly wine savvy, didn't fully appreciate the preciousness of the too-young wine. In terms of creating a memorable experience for the diners, he'd essentially wasted the bottle -- and the restaurant had gotten only a two-bottle allocation.
These are issues that stem not from a lack of enthusiasm, but a lack of experience. The solution is simple: more time spent as an assistant, learning under the auspices of someone who has spent years on the floor, dealing gracefully with customers of all ilk.
Alas, the number of wizened, experienced wine directors still working on the floor is dwindling. Good sommeliers continuously get sucked up into the ranks of wholesalers, distributors and importers -- jobs that provide similar incomes without the long hours and late nights on the restaurant floor. The very vacuum that creates jobs for the fledgling sommeliers also leaves them without proper mentors. Excellent programs such as the Court of Master Sommeliers provide some resources in terms of guidance and mentorship, but can never replace the value of day-to-day, on-the-job training.
Responsible restaurateurs must start to compete with other sectors of the wine industry for top, experienced talent. They need to make wine director positions well-compensated and attractive enough to keep talent in their restaurants for more years. For their part, head somms and wine directors need to devote sufficient time to teaching their charges not just about wine, but about service.
And, diners, for a while, be warned that you may face young somms intent on selling you the wine they like (instead of the one you're asking for). Or, a young somm who is willfully ignoring cost of the wine. Simply take control of the situation: Describe what you want clearly and insistently and demand to know the prices of the choices suggested. It may not be your job, but you'll be reminding the next generation of sommeliers of the lessons in service that they must follow to make good on the extreme promise of their profession.
Jordan Mackay is co-author with Rajat Parr of the new book "Secrets of the Sommeliers."
2007 Meliora Syrah
Growing Region: Walla Walla Valley, Washington
Varietal Blend: 100% Syrah
Fermentation: 100% French Oak (0% New)
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $38.69
Broad Strokes:
Talk about cutting edge... This brand spanking new project is the brain child of Wolfgang Puck's main wine guy, Chris Miller, who was named New Sommelier of the Year in Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2008. As beverage director for Spago, one can imagine how many wines this guy tastes in a year. It's no wonder that he knew exactly what he wanted to do with his Meliora project. The word Meliora is a Latin adjective meaning "better". Once you taste this, you'll see just how apropos this is. Quite honestly, this may very well be the best Syrah we have ever tasted from the state of Washington. The wine has it all.
Appearance:
At first glance, the Meliora label feels Spanish, perhaps Moroccan but definitely Mediterranean. Then as you take it all in, one might say, it feels a bit English. The textured label has a rough illustration of the top of a fence or gate. The fence posts could remind you of one you might find in London. It even seems a touch Free Mason-ish. The wine is opaque/purple with blue hints and a slight crimson edge. It leaves a beautiful unfiltered stain around your glass.
Nose:
Initially, this complex Syrah smells like an unsweetened chocolate lava cake. Wet rocks, minerals, sage, blueberry, licorice and coffee begin to take center stage once it's been opened for 15 minutes. One could easily write a book on all the subtle nuances that evolve while consuming this wine.
Texture:
Like an arrowhead, it starts out light, silky and narrow but gets incrementally richer, fatter and broader as it sits on the palate. A touch of an oily characteristic (in a good way) reveals itself at some point also. It never seems clumsy or difficult to drink. It's a big wine but with NO new oak present, it all seems to fall into balance very nicely.
Flavor:
This is a moving target for sure, so I will simply rattle them off. You can find some of these flavors and probably more at some point while tasting this gem. Blueberry, chocolate, licorice, minerals, black olive, white pepper…
Serving Options:
Braised dishes, grilled lamb rack rubbed with garlic, rosemary and Dijon, cassoulet, grilled sausages (Merguez?), grilled eggplant, grilled mushrooms. You need deep flavors for this one.
2007 Ramian “Chapter 7” Bordeaux Blend
Growing Region: Mt Veeder- Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 92% Cab Sauv, 4% Merlot, 2% Malbec, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Cab Franc
Fermentation: 100% French Oak (70% New)
Suggested Retail: $70.00
WineSellar Club Price: $58.49
Broad Strokes:
Ramian Estate has quickly become Napa’s new “insider’s” wine. Owner/winemaker, Brian Graham, underwent formal wine training at the University of Bordeaux. After graduating, he traveled Europe as a cellar rat, working in small and large wineries in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont and Rioja. Upon returning to the U.S., Brian gained employment at Merryvale Winery located at the epicenter of the wine business, Napa Valley. There he worked closely with Bob Levy (Harlan winemaker), with all aspects of production. When the time was right, Brian started his own small winery. Ten years have passed since Ramian Estate was created and we feel Brian’s wines are really starting to really hit stride. We hope you’ll agree.
Appearance:
The appearance is striking. Ornate, clean, modern and sleek are all descriptors that come to mind. The bottle is heavy, the cork is long and the wine is sealed by an “easy to remove” dollop of wax. His very memorable trademark, “R” with a circle around it is from a famous old Remington typewriter key. The wine is a dark, almost opaque, red tinged, blue/purple with staining nature on the glass. One can easily conclude that minimal filtration was employed.
Nose:
Goodness this wine is expressive! Rust, black currant, soy, charcoal and, of all things, pineapple. I always thought white fruit flavors in red wine was profound. Shaved milk chocolate and toasty vanilla oak notes.
Texture:
This is a well-structured, thick, full-bodied wine with significant richness and, as a result, a touch coarse when first opened. However, it’s not too powerful or over blown as it is kept in check by good ol’ mountain tannins. Decanting or aeration night brings a sensual, silky texture to the wine.
Flavor:
Complex flavors blitz the palate immediately; red cherry, cedar and licorice. Secondary flavors start to sink in, a wave of a shaved German chocolate, coffee beans and molasses. The finish is currant and cedar intermixed with a roasted almond nuance.
Serving Options:
Caved aged Gruyere cheese, lamb with rosemary, beef rib eye… Think cuts with lots of marbling to soak up some of the tannins. Vegetarians will enjoy grilled eggplant and/or mushrooms dishes.
2009 Karma Chardonnay, Allegria
Growing Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: 100% Stainless Steel
Suggested Retail: $17.00
WineSellar Club Price: $12.75
Broad Strokes:
A most unique Chardonnay, especially considering California standards of high alcohol, extraction and dominant oak flavors. Hailing from the Mendoza region of Argentina, this Chardonnay is produced from old vines and hand harvested, crafted by third generation wine owners with young gun winemakers who are well equipped to make a most fascinating wine.
Appearance:
Chardonnay package looks much like the Sauvignon Blanc you received last month. Good looking, well appointed features. The label reads clear and direct. There is lots of information on the back label, which is great. I guess because I wrote it! I like the clear, tall bottle very much. The wine itself looks crystal like, shimmering and shining in the light, with golden straw hue. It is very viscous and clings well to the glass.
Nose:
Give it some time to open, 15 minutes minimum, and don’t keep the wine too cold. The aromatics come out as the wine gets air and warms up. I will say this a couple times here: pure Chardonnay fruit is what you sense on the nose and in the palate. Clean, well balanced, unadulterated grape flavor from the varietal. White tree fruit of apple and pear, mixed with honey, roasted macadamia nuts, and the rare white cherry.
Texture:
The entry is smooth and creamy, with balanced fruit to acid. A bit of zippy acid is mild but present, which is happily noted for food pairing. The wine is medium bodied, and feels long on the palate. In fact, the long finish really keeps the flavors and over all feel alive for an extended period on the finish. Very nice!
Flavor:
The PURE Chardonnay fruit is the class act of this wine! Rarely have I come across something so perfectly expressive of a varietal! White tree fruit of apple and pear, with some canned peach, roasted nuts (almonds and Macadamia), chalky soil, some earth, and a hint of lemon/lime citrus.
Serving Options:
Buy a case or two at this price. Enjoy through the upcoming summer as an aperitif, or pair with fine cheeses, white-fleshed fish dishes with butter and lemon, or anything that calls for a fine and interesting bottle of white wine. It will solicit conversation from all who try it.
2004 Godspeed Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Mount Veeder, Napa Valley
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 100% French Oak (30% New)
Suggested Retail: $40.00
WineSellar Club Price: $32.39
Broad Strokes:
Godspeed is owned by respected architect, Larry Strickland. You may have seen Larry’s work if you have ever been to the Phoenician in Scottsdale or a bevy of Hawaiian resorts including the Kapalua Bay Resort. Since the 80’s he has been quietly growing grapes on top of Napa’s Mt Veeder appellation. Larry keeps a portion of his best grapes for Godspeed. He employs old world techniques; low alcohol levels and less than 1/3 new oak.
Appearance:
I suppose I expected something different coming from an architect. The label is clean, simple and understated. A somewhat abstract image of a bird graces the center of the label. Tall, narrow bottle is of quality but isn’t particularly heavy. In a sense, he is right on target. The form does, in fact, match the content. The wine is clear of sediment and seems to be fined. Dark, reddish purple color with just a hint of bricky hue, which makes sense for its age.Nose: Undoubtedly California. Blackberry jam with a hint of a mint/camphor component. Pure, delicious, clean fruit is what this wine is all about. I’m transported to the first time I tasted the wine. Didn’t want or need another Napa Cab in this price range but it tasted so darn good! After some negotiation a bit got him to drop the price and I just had to get it. Anyway, after some time in the glass the wine starts to exhibit some of the secondary flavors that a six year old wine should possess. A touch of a brambly, mountainous underbrush thing with a hint of decomposing leaves and fallen trees.
Texture:
Velvety, creamy and rich on the palate. Gushing with rich fruit, it tastes too good to swallow. But you do, and continue to do so until life seems better. And then tannins and natural fruits acids start to shine through and you start to crave food. This wine is in a sweet spot right now. The texture is so very together and seemless that it is effortless to drink.
Flavor:
Straightforward with blackberry, black currant and all other dark fruits. With aeration the frame starts to show itself, lavender, subtle spice, manzanita and toasty vanilla.
Serving Options:
Pretty versatile little number here. Rotisserie chicken, pork, filet mignon or other cuts of beef without much marbling. Actually, coffee rubbed tri-tip could be pretty amazing. Veal chop with forest mushrooms and cognac sauce? YUM!
2007 Parlay “The Bookmaker” Red
Growing Region: California
Varietal Blend: 70% Cab Sauv, 10% Petite Syrah, 10% Petite Verdot, 10% Syrah
Fermentation: 100% French Oak (30% New)
Suggested Retail: $19.99
WineSellar Club Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Parlay is Ramian Estate’s answer to Orin Swift’s “The Prisoner”. Owner/winemaker, Brian Graham has fashioned a knock out with his newest 2009 release. This wine is made at the same facility as Prisoner also. We are excited to be the first and only wine shop in Southern California with this wine.
Appearance:
This a friendly looking bottle. It has an “Old West” feel to it, designed to look like an old gambling ticket with parlay odds and teaser odds. The label actually browns at the edges to give an antique look. The bottle is thick with broad shoulders and a deep punt. One could argue that the wine is perfect for the package. It is a thick hearty, full-bodied wine with a blue-black hue with crimson edges. This high viscosity wine moves slowly and coats the glass.
Nose:
WOW! Notes of bubble gum and cotton candy, smoke, roasted meats, vanilla almost as if you are walking through a carnival. As the wine settles a bit, more “subtle” nuances present themselves. Currants, licorice, toast from the oak, black cherry… This is certainly what one would describe as an “inviting” nose.Texture: Thick and rich on the palate. Nothing sharp, no bite, just fat and mouth filling ripe fruit. After being opened for an hour, the wine develops a silky quality. Let’s face it, the wine IS young. A year in the bottle or leaving it open will bring great results. The texture is so utterly agreeable that you want to share it. And you should at this price. Let all ALL your friends know that you have discovered the next hot wine.
Flavor:
Explosively rich flavors of blackberry, licorice and the cotton candy component described in the nose. So seductive! Black cherry, chocolate, boysenberry jam, raspberry liquor…
Serving Options:
If you enjoy Napa wines, this is your ultimate barbeque wine for summer 2011. It’s so rich, it will stand up to virtually every kind of grilled meat. Because of the fruit forward nature of this wine, you can throw some spiced meats and sausage against it. All that said, the wine is perfectly suitable as a cocktail wine.