Wine Club Newsletter - December 2019
Sicily Wine & Regions
Sicily is an island of great natural beauty and rich culture, where innovative producers are combining tradition with modern techniques to create wines that are capturing new attention around the world.
With more than 250,000 acres planted to indigenous and international grape varieties, each vintage in Sicily produces an array of captivating and elegant wines. Winemakers who have found success in the versatility of white wines from Grillo and the bold flavors of Nero d’Avola are rediscovering the nearly 50 native grape varieties that are unique to Sicily. Here are some of the main varietals for your reference:
White Wines:
Catarratto - Yellow with hints of green, with a delicate bouquet of white flowers, aromas of ripe citrus, melon and herbal flavors, a full body and a healthy acidity.
Grecanico - A pale lime-yellow, with aromas of ripe white melon and white flowers and tree fruits, featuring clean and fresh flavors of pear, white peach and nectarine, with a medium body and a mild, balanced finish.
Grillo - A soft to strong yellow, with citrus blossom and fruity aromas, with notes of white peaches and grapefruits combined with hints of aromatic herbs, healthy acidity and a soft, round palate.
Inzolia - Straw-yellow with hints of green, with aromas of flowers, understated fruit aromas and flavors featuring nuts and herbs, a soft acidity, finesse and elegance, well-balanced alcohol and a soft, mineral finish.
Red Wines:
Frappato - Ruby color with violet hues, with intense aromas of violet, spices and red cherry, a medium body, ripe tannins and a lingering freshness that’s persistent and balanced.
Nero d’Avola - Royal ruby, with aromas of red flowers, strawberry, cherry, to more structured wines with aromas of ripe cherry, rose, sweet spices, licorice and cocoa, a structured, full body, healthy acidity and tannins.
Perricone - Ruby to purple, with aromas of spicy red fruit, herbs and earth, featuring flavors of ripe bramble fruits; complex, with velvety tannins and a mineral, fresh structure.
Nerello Mascalese - Nerello Mascalese (best known in the Faro DOC) makes a dark, spicy, floral wine. It is also found in blends with Nero d’Avola, as well as Nerello Capuccio (in the Etna (Rosso) DOC)
The island’s climatic conditions are perfect for producing healthy grapes and extraordinary wines with distinctive flavors at incredible value. For those who have already enjoyed Sicily’s wines, either with the island’s traditional foods or their own favorite international dishes, one thing remains clear: Incredible food and amazing wines do not have to be expensive.
During our tour there last October, we discovered four distinct wine growing regions on this island, all producing unique flavors and styles. The differences in weather, annual precipitation, soil composition and vineyard altitude across Sicily are extreme. Let’s take a quick tour:
Mount Etna Region: (Passopiscrio, Franchetti, Fessina)
With its continually smoking and often snow-capped peak, head-trained bush vines (alberello in Italian) and the sparkling backdrop of the Ionian Sea, the region is drop-dead gorgeous. Made predominantly from Nerello Mascalese, the best Etna reds have the finesse of Burgundies and the complexity of top Barolos.
Besides its high-altitude vineyards, Mount Etna has cooler temperatures and almost double the rainfall as compared to the rest of Sicily. It also boasts intense sunlight and dramatic day-night temperature swings that prolong the growing season. But the driving force behind the area’s wines is its tapestry of volcanic soils, which range from pumice and basalt pebbles to black ash.
Vittoria: (Valle sell’Acate, Nanfro, Planeta)
Located in the southeastern province of Ragusa, this area specializes in red wines and is the epicenter of production for Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wine, the most strictly regulated denomination in Italy.
A blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, Cerasuolo di Vittoria boasts more finesse than power. Nero d’Avola provides the structure, Frappato freshness and elegance. Both versions boast enticing floral aromas, creamy strawberry-cherry flavors and silky tannins, although Classico’s also often offer more leather, tobacco and licorice.
Noto: (Planeta, Zisola)
Named after the stunning baroque city of Noto, this denomination spans the extreme southeastern point of Sicily, one of the hottest areas on the island. Part of the growing area around the town of Pachino lies even further south than the tip of Tunisia.
With its broiling hot days, cool, windy nights and the lowest rainfall on the island, this is where Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most celebrated red grape, thrives. The variety originated around the nearby town of Avola, making this part of Siracusa province its classic growing area.
Faro:
While wines based primarily on the same main grapes grown on Etna boast a strong mineral character and brighter berry flavors, Faro is equally elegant but markedly different, with sensations of dried berry, underbrush and tilled soil.
“Nerello Mascalese is difficult like Pinot Noir, in both the vineyards and the cellars,” says Geraci. “To make wines with finesse and aromatic intensity with Nerello Mascalese, you need old vines that naturally generate low yields and concentrated flavors.
“You also need vineyards near the sea because they impart rejuvenating notes of salinity,” he says. “And you need altitude for cool evening breezes. Everything has to be perfect, or it doesn’t work. There’s just no compromising.”
Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Grand Siecle, Iteration 24
Growing Region: Champagne, 100% Grand Cru
Varietal Composition: 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 10 Years on the Lees, Disgorged October 2018
Alcohol Content: 13%
Suggested Retail: $175.00
WineSellar Club Price: $124.19*
Broad Strokes:
Last month we had a comprehensive tasting of Laurent-Perrier Champagne at The Brasserie for a select dozen people, put on by Laurent-Perrier. I was totally blown away by all the wines, but especially the Grand Siecle Iteration 24. I think it is one of the greatest young Champagnes I have ever had the pleasure of drinking. I am choosing it for us because it will age for a minimum of ten years, so it belongs in our cellars for sure. And beyond that, check out how much below retail we can offer this wine for!
And check out the scores!
*As a Holiday gesture, we charged (a one time only) $116.99 for your 1st Bottle.
Thank you for being a part of my favorite wine club!
Gary Parker
97 points James Suckling
A fantastic prestigious cuvée this year with a solid core of fruit that makes it so serious and structured. Like a grand cru Burgundy. Full body. Lightly chewy. Phenolic tension gives it form and beauty. This is the first year to use numbers. 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir. 2007, 2006 and 2004.
94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A blend of the 2007, 2006 and 2004 vintages that was disgorged some six months ago, the NV Brut Grand Siècle #24 will be released this April, and it's beginning to drink well, offering up a complex and already maturing bouquet of dried flowers, mandarin orange, iodine, gingerbread, clear honey and smoke. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with an ample core of fruit complemented by abundant sapid nuances, bright acids and a fine but youthfully frothy mousse. This is an expressive rendition of Grand Siècle that will drink well on release.
94 points Vinous
Laurent-Perrier's NV Grande Cuvée Grand Siècle No. 24 is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic and flavor complexity, which makes it a very satisfying Champagne for current drinking. Hints of apricot, lemon confit, white flowers and marzipan grace this wonderfully vibrant, inviting edition of Grand Siècle built on the 2007, 2006 and 2004 vintages. The Grande Cuvée No. 24 is silky, perfumed and classy all the way. Time in the glass brings out the wine's freshness and energy. Drink 2019-2029.
2015 Nero d'Avola, Feudi del Pisciotto, Versace
Growing Region: Niscemi, Sicily
Varietal Composition: 100% Nero d’Avola
Fermentation: 12 Months 50% New, 50% 2nd Pass Barrel
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $38.00
WineSellar Club Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes: 92 Points Vinous, Wine Spectator Top 100 Wine of the Year (91)
“We took our tour group to the Castle of Feudi del Pisciotto in October, a magnificent estate, where we stayed a few nights and dined at their fabulous restaurant Il Palmento. One of the wines we had at dinner was this very Nero d’Avola Versace, which I was determined to bring back to you.” (GP)
Located inside the triangle created by Piazza Almerina (known for its extraordinary and intact Roman villa), Caltagirone (famous for its ceramics) and Vittoria (famous for Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the only Sicilian DOCG), the vineyards of Feudi del Pisciotto dedicate half their vines to the red wine king of the island, Nero d’Avola, and half to international varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot, Semillon and Gewürztraminer.
Appearance:
Deep ruby red in color, and black at the core, still looking youthful at this point in its evolution. Versace is part of the Italian Fashion Collection Top Designer Wines Collection's, which the Sicilian producer Feudi del Pisciotto has dedicated to the greatest Italian fashion designers. The label and packaging are exciting and striking.
Nose:
The nose is dark, fruit forward, opening big but mellowing after some time in the glass. Rich fragrance showing sweet spice, dark chocolate, black cherry and blackberry with hints of undergrowth. You may notice some suave vanilla extract, brown sugar, tobacco, and violet flower.
Texture:
It is creamy yet fresh on the palate, and easy-styled tannins are supporting the front stage fruit. A hearty acid gives solid cut to the body and leaves a floral, chalky finish that rings on and on. Juicy and still penetrating, gripping tannins and balancing acids, mouth-watering.
Flavors:
Spice and oak threads around a core of black cherry and red current stream through ahead of baking spice. Ripe blueberry, red cherry and pomegranate, with notes of violet in the deep background come before a finish that won't quit.
Serving Suggestions:
Such a beautiful bottle of wine, inside and out, you deserve to have some of this in your personal collection.
2018 Nero d’Avola, Valle dell’Acate, Tenuta Ibidini
Growing Region: Acate, Sicily
Varietal Composition: 100% Nero d’Avola
Fermentation: 6 Months in Steel Vats, 2 Months in Bottle
Alcohol Content: 13.5%
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes:
“We took our tour group to Valle dell’Acate this past October. We had another incredible lunch there, where we were generously fed and wined . . . a great time was had by all. One of the wines we had at lunch was this Nero d’Avola, which I was determined to bring back to you.” (GP)
Wine produced for Tenuta Ibidini, Valle dell’Acate’s second label, vary widely and are intended for casual consumption. The name was inspired by a company owned estate, Bidini, where some of the family’s ancient grapevines are located. These vines provide living testimony to family tradition and their ability to carefully and constantly safeguard the surrounding environment and local history.
Appearance:
The wine is garnet hued at the center, working its way to magenta/brick at the edge. Seeing how slow the wine drips down on the inside of the bowl, makes one think it looks like more than just 13.5% alcohol. The bottle and label are distinctive, and the etching of the winery on the label makes me smile as it reminds me of our tour trip there.
Nose:
The nose is intense with mature black-skinned berry notes, black olive, some menthol and earthen dark soil. With licorice, leather, game meats, and white pepper aromas, it has sort of an “old world” sensibility about it.
Texture:
The entry is a tad stark with tannins and acid, which is typical for the Nero d’Avola varietal. It still has a fresh and juicy feel however, and the tannins round out and become more ripe and smooth with airing. It reminds me of a “Cadillac” version of a South African Pinotage.
Flavors:
With a big, rewarding middle palate of ripe cherry, the fruit is framed by the acid and mineral components, such as iron, hot rocks, stones and asphalt. Some black fruit essence, mixed nuts, and perhaps blame it on the holidays, but I got some pine tree (resin?) in there, and chocolate.
Serving Suggestions:
Meant for near term consumption, the wine is fun to have next to our other Two-Rouge Nero d’Avola this month, the Versace. New world meets old world Nero’s. Cheers!
2018 Insolia, Valle dell’Acate, Tenuta Ibidini
Growing Region: Acate, Sicily
Varietal Composition: 100% Insolia
Fermentation: 6 Months in Steel Vats, 2 Months in Bottle
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Price: $14.39
Broad Strokes:
“We took our tour group to Valle dell’Acate this past October. We had another incredible lunch there, where we were generously fed and wined . . . a great time was had by all. One of the wines we had at lunch was this Insolia, which I was determined to bring back to you.” (GP)
Wine produced for Tenuta Ibidini, Valle dell’Acate’s second label, vary widely and are intended for casual consumption. The name was inspired by a company owned estate, Bidini, where some of the family’s ancient grapevines are located. These vines provide living testimony to family tradition and their ability to carefully and constantly safeguard the surrounding environment and local history.
Appearance:
The wine is clear and brilliant, with white-gold hues, reflecting light very well. The bottle and label are distinctive, and the etching of the winery on the label makes me smile as it reminds me of our tour trip there.
Nose:
White peach, pear and red apple aromatics are most agreeable. Some honey and spice, with bits of saline, mineral and distant notes of fresh herbs. Look also for toasted sesame seed and roasted nuts.
Texture:
Smooth and soft on the entry, with an excellent purity about it. Grapey, quite appealing, a very pleasant feel in the mouth. Medium in weight and body, the wine is too easy to drink, be warned. There is a nice bit of clean acidity that balances the wine perfectly for near term drinking. Touch of creaminess also.
Flavors:
Very ripe fruits, such as apricot, peach, and mango . . . all so gratifying. Lemon and vanilla, Mandarin orange and other lovely citrus elements, even a note of bitter orange, and yes, cumquat.
Serving Suggestions:
Insolia is one the main grapes used for making Marsala wine, you may notice some similarities. Such a great sipper!
2017 Frappato IGT, Tenuta del Nanfro
Growing Region: Catania, Sicily
Varietal Composition: 100% Frappato
Fermentation: 6 Months in Concrete, 4 Months in Bottle
Alcohol Content: 13%
Suggested Retail: $26.00
WineSellar Club Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes:
“We took our tour group to Tenuta del Nanfro this past October. We had an incredible lunch there, where we were generously fed and wined . . . a great time was had by all. One of the wines we had at lunch was this Frappato, which I was determined to bring back to you.” (GP)
The history of Tenuta Nanfro is ancient...a history made up of secrets and pleasures with wine as a joyful companion of life. Papa Nino an original citizen of Catania is determined to pass down to his sons the ancient art of wine-making. Tenuta Nanfro is situated on an estate 4 kilometers from Caltagirone, an area famous around the world for its ceramics as well as its ancient wine “Cerasuolo di Vittoria.” The temperate climate and sandstone terrain create ideal conditions for precious wines with great personalities.
Appearance:
It’s a complicated label that has many different elements to it, perhaps representing the past generations who have worked the property. The wine is cherry skin colored, dark at the center, lightening up at the rim.
Nose:
A fragrant and floral bouquet of red rose and delicate red fruits seem to have a toasted nut influence. Raspberry, black pepper, strawberry put freshness on the savory bottom. Notes of coffee, espresso, nibs, cocoa, mocha . . .
Texture:
The vibrant palate has supple tannins and fresh acidity. It is medium in body and weight, and feels totally agreeable in the palate. Not aggressive, but present, it illustrates how a wine may be understated in power, all the while providing great satisfaction with its delicate nuances. Harmonious, with a long finish.
Flavors:
The taste of strawberry is enveloped by a slight spiciness offers wild strawberry, crushed cherry and a nuance of baking spice. Sort of like cherry pie al a mode. Notes of raspberry, chocolate, coffee, nibs, espresso come in along with black pepper, roasted nuts and basil.
Serving Suggestions:
I loved this wine more and more with each sip. It is so handy to have around for light appetizers, cheeses, charcuterie . . . interesting and lovely!
Baked Cauliflower Fritters
These light Baked Cauliflower Fritters are a delicious vegetarian and dairy-free dinner option or as an appetizer or side dish.
Great with 2017 Frappato by Nanfro!
Ingredients
- 1 head of cauliflower florets, steamed
- 1 egg white
- 1 garlic clove finely minced
- one bunch of fresh parsley and basil leaves chopped
- 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
- 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese optional
- sea salt and pepper to taste
- all purpose flour for dusting
- Extra-virgin olive oil for spraying or frying
Method
Preheat oven to 400F
- In a large bowl or food processor, mix together panko, fresh parsley/basil, minced garlic and Parmesan if using. Season with salt and pepper.
- Fold in the tender cauliflower florets and egg white and mix all the ingredients until you have a dense mixture. Add in more panko if too wet, or an extra egg if too dry. Adjust seasoning.
- Form small patties with your hands and lightly dust with flour.
- Spray with olive oil on both sides and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
- Bake in the oven for 10 min of each side, or until crispy and golden-brown.
- Serve the fritters piping hot, and enjoy plain, or with a squeeze of lemon on top and optional marinara sauce on the side.