Wine Club Newsletter - September 2021
Sting Says He Was Duped into Buying Tuscan Wine Estate
'Our whole Tuscan adventure has really been a way of getting our own back,’ he says
Rock star winemaker Sting has spoken out about the sleight of hand which led him to purchase Tuscan wine estate Il Palagio.
The Police front man and his wife Trudie Styler purchased the run-down 16th-century Tuscan villa, located 45 minutes south of Florence, in 1997 from Duke Simone Vincenzo Velluti Zati di San Clemente. He was offered a glass of wine to try by the Duke and enjoyed it so much that he purchased the property, although Sting later discovered that the wine itself was not from Il Palagio, or even Tuscany. It was a Barolo.
‘He offered us a glass of red from a carafe during one of our early visits to Il Palagio,’ Sting told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera’s Sette magazine.
‘We were negotiating the purchase. We liked the property a lot, even though it was in ruins. The duke asked me if I wanted to taste the wine produced by the estate and I said yes. It was an excellent wine and that convinced me to buy the vineyards as well. It was only later that we found out that the duke had served us a Barolo and not his own wine.’
After getting over being duped and witnessing visiting guests emptying the estate’s own wine into a flower bed, Sting decided that he needed to improve Il Palagio’s wines and reputation.
‘It was then that we decided to avenge ourselves and to show that it was possible to produce excellent wine from the vineyards at Palagio. Our whole Tuscan adventure has really been a way of getting our own back,’ he said.
Today the couple produce about 150,000 bottles of wine a year – a sparkling, a white, a rosé and three reds – made using native and international grape varieties according to organic principles. In 2020, renowned oenologist and consultant Riccardo Cotarella came on board to help produce their wine.
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Provence wine producers weigh up losses after deadly wildfires in France
Winemakers in southeastern France who lost vines and equipment in recent wildfires are devastated as prospects of harvesting grapes for the popular rosé wine go up in smoke. Wildfires that swept across the hilly region close to the French Riviera are now under control, firefighters said on Monday. The blaze claimed two lives and scorched more than 18,000 acres of land.
Some 12,500 acres were lost in the Var region, which produces the Côtes de Provence rosé wine that is particularly popular in the United States. Two hundred of the region’s 4,000 producers are believed to have been badly affected. “We estimate around 2,500 acres of vineyards have been affected in the Côte de Provence area,” Eric Pastorino, president of Provence's wine producers' association, the CIVP, told RFI.
Winemaker Pierre Audemar lost all his equipment and half of his grape harvest to the flames.
“It’s not possible,” he told France Info television three days after the fire, gazing at the charred remains of his Domaine de la Giscle winery and the stock of 2019 wine stacked up in metal crates now burned to a cinder. He hopes insurance will cover the economic blow of between “1.5 million and 2 million euros”.
Paul Giraud also lost all his farming equipment and property. His 25 hectares of vines produce red, white and rosé Côtes de Provence in the hills behind Saint-Tropez, "I no longer have a grape harvesting machine, a backhoe, a loader for the vineyard, a motor mower. Everything has been burnt," he told France Info. “I’m a wreck, completely confused,” the 70-year-old said, looking around aimlessly in his La Tourre estate in the hills of the Massif des Maures.
“We harvest at the beginning of September. How am I going to manage? I have nothing left."
Even winegrowers who were fortunate not to lose their estates are concerned that the proximity of the fires will have tainted their grapes with smoke. "We are only a few days away from the harvest, which is bound to be damaged,” said Guillaume de Chevron Villette, owner of the Reillanne winery. We produce a quality rosé wine, so the challenge will surely be to eliminate the risk of a burnt taste in the wine," he told AFP.
This part of southeastern France has regular droughts, strong winds and is densely populated, making it particularly at risk from wildfires. There is also a “lack of maintenance around the plots,” said Chevron Villette. “As we’re in a protected area, we can’t clear the bush”.
The National Federation of Agricultural Workers’ Unions (FNSEA) said in a statement that in view of climate change it was "urgent to reconsider the ways we preserve biodiversity in areas like this, which are particularly vulnerable to fire”.
Can French wine survive the climate change fiasco?
Some winegrowers are now asking for a change in regulations so that landowners near protected forest areas be allowed to clear bushes and create firebreaks. "We want at the very least to be able to plant vines in the bushes to stop the spread of ashes,” said Benoît Ab-der-Halden, director of Chevron Villet, which represents 14 vineyards in Le Var.
In the meantime, the worst-hit winegrowers will have to wait several years before their next crop of rosé grapes can be harvested. “When you lose a vineyard you have to leave the ground to rest, then replant,” says Pastorelli. With three years for the vine to start producing again, it will take "five years in all to produce Côtes de Provence wine".
Fire is only the latest disaster to strike French wine producers. In April, heavy frosts destroyed buds on vines in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Languedoc and the Rhône valley.
Deemed a natural disaster, the French government promised the affected farmers and winemakers one billion euros in aid.
2020 Bidaia, Txakolina Blanc
Growing Region Getariako Txakolina, Spain
Varietal Composition Hondarribi Zuri, Grose Manseng, Petite Courbo
Fermentation Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content 10.5%
Suggested Retail $23.00
WineSellar Club Price $20.69
Broad Strokes: 90 Points!!!
From the Winery: The word “Txakolina” can describe a few things. For one, it can describe the region that makes wine in their certain style. Secondly, it is the style of wine; light, bright & slightly frizzante. And third, Txakolina literally translates to “wine enough for the house." For centuries, families grew grapes to make wine just enough for their family, for their house.
Bidaia meaning “the journey” in Basque, is the story of Xabi Urruzola & Garazi del Rey; high-school sweethearts who have traveled the world together and ended back in their home of Getariako, Spain. Together, they grow local varietals Hondarabbi Zuri & Hondarabbi Beltza on their 8.5-hectare property, where they make the wine on site. They also own a small restaurant in their 15th century cider-house where locals fill the seats every weekend to enjoy Basque food & wine.
Appearance:
A very nice looking, tall green bottle. I love the image of the owners in the “same boat”, depicting their childhood love and commitment together. The wine is a pale yellow/gray, with fresh-looking white froth (bubbles) when you pour into the glass.
Nose:
It has quite an interesting nose of mineral, tangerine, watermelon, sea salt and freshly cut slices of green apple.
Texture:
You will notice the lightness (10.5% alcohol) and the spritz right off the get-go. Spritzy, very dry, with some tight acid hovering over a little bit of a creamy middle. Medium to medium light in body.
Flavors:
This wine covers all parts of your palate with it verve and liveliness. Fresh lime, lemon, and tangerine citrus palette for your palate. Then there is the fresh watermelon, touches of flowers, mineral, Pippin apple, sea salt and quince.
Serving Suggestions:
This is one of the most unique wines I have ever had. All the staff love it, and we think it is a great summertime sipper.
2019 Gail, Doris Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region Warm Springs, Sonoma Valley, Ca.
Varietal Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation 20 Months Neutral Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content 14.3%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $24.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: A native of Rhode Island, Dan arrived in Northern California by way of Boston, where he went on to direct estate-grown wineries in Napa and Sonoma. Thanks to the support and encouragement of his mentors over the years, Dan produced his first vintage of Gail in 2013. Today, with an adventurous California spirit and a nod to European tradition, Dan produces eponymous wines in memory of his mother. Everything is grown in the Sonoma Valley, a place she would have considered paradise.
Our inaugural release of Cabernet Sauvignon under our Doris label wine is all from an organically farmed single vineyard planted in the Warm Springs region of Sonoma Valley. These vines sit at the base of Sonoma Mountain. A dense forest of live oaks and pines mingle with Sonoma’s signature eucalyptus trees offering up notes of wintergreen and menthol. The site is notorious for ripening late into the growing season, allowing the fruit to develop at the perfect pace.
Appearance:
A modest, subtle, almost hiding label with a simple wine barrel and a hovering bird are kind of a blurred image. Ditto the small and light-colored font, kind of hard to read. Will not stick out on the shelf. The wine is dark at the core, with a nice fresh magenta rim.
Nose:
Lovely nose of sweet blue and black fruits, with notes of vanilla, spice, and lead pencil. Eucalyptus, violets and cocoa, kind of almost jammy and dense, but still elegant.
Texture:
Medium if weight, just missing feeling a bit light. Enjoyable mouthfeel of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, with ripe, well-melded tannins and a finish so smooth that belies its price tag.
Flavors:
The black and blue fruits come forth nicely, along with the vanilla oak and spices from the nose. In fact, everything from the nose is on the palate: eucalyptus, violets, cocoa, dense ripe fruit, and also mint and blackberries.
Serving Suggestions:
This is a wine that begs to have a BBQ! The price per quality ration is off the charts!
2014 Les Chevaux de Patache d’Aux, Medoc
Growing Region Medoc, Bordeaux, France
Varietal Composition 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Fermentation French Oak Barrels, 25% New
Alcohol Content 13%
Suggested Retail $43.00
WineSellar Club Price $28.99
Broad Strokes:
Domaines Lapalu is a group of Bordeaux wine estates located within the Médoc. The family-owned company produces traditional Left Bank wines from varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc.
The group's first château, Patache d'Aux, was purchased by Claude Lapalu in 1964. Domaines Lapalu itself was formed in 2001 after the merging of multiple family estates. Today, the company manages around 250 hectares (618 acres) of vineyard land spread throughout the Médoc and Haut-Médoc. Domaines Lapalu produces some 1.5 million bottles of wine annually and distributes to more than 30 countries worldwide.
Appearance:
I love the label depicting the stagecoach stop just outside of the Chateau. I love the embossing on the label and even on the foil cap. Good-looking, straight-forward, identifiable product packaging. The wine is just starting to show some signs of aging, as the soft red core bleeds out to a tint of auburn/chestnut.
Nose:
Fine, even, and balanced bouquet showing signs of the wood treatment. The blackberry fruit and the earthen spices all meld together in beautiful harmony. Check out the notes of coffee, Asian spices, and black tea.
Texture:
Medium to medium-light in body, however, showing excellent length on the palate. The youthful vibrant acids of its past has now evolved wonderfully into a more refined, elegant feel in the mouth.
Flavors:
Red and white cherry fruit upon immediate entry, with a firm mineral/gravel/crushed rock profile line that is quite intriguing. Hints of anise, smoke, wood, spices and black tea linger long on the finish.
Serving Suggestions:
Well, the wine already has a near perfect amount of bottle age on it, so I wouldn’t put this down for more than three years. Wonderful now, have with simple roasted meats and cheese.
2013 Gigondas, “Oratorio”, Maison Ogier,
Growing Region Gigondas, Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Composition 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre
Fermentation 20 Months French, Neutral Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $37.00
WineSellar Club Price $33.29
Broad Strokes:
Gigondas is a French wine Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the southern Rhône wine region of France. It is primarily a red wine region, with a very small amount of rosé wine produced. No white wines carry the Gigondas appellation.
Considered a little brother to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the wine is moderately prestigious and can age well when treated with care. Gigondas AOC wine is produced exclusively in the commune of Gigondas, in Vaucluse. Maison Ogier is considered a top producer of Gigondas, and is in fact rated amongst the top ten producers in this region.
Appearance:
I like the overall packaging, which clearly defines the product and gives you anticipation a special experience is on the way. I love the Domaine name stamped on the foil, and embossed on the label. Good reading on the back label. The wine is black at the core, bleeding out to a cherry skin red on the edges.
Nose:
Gorgeous red, black, and blueberry fruit aromatics!! Clove, spice, and cinnamon with a fascinating line of cocoa, mocha, and milk chocolate that delights the senses. Notes of red and black licorice, black pepper and balsamic.
Texture:
The texture has a dynamic character, truly unique to the area. That is just one reason why we are taking customers to the Rhone Valley next April! Firm, juicy, it is medium in body and weight. It has lovely tannic acid integration that has softened with the nearly eight years of bottle aging.
Flavors:
Exceptional red, black and blueberry fruits from the. Nose go right to the palate. These are held firm by the fine acids, allowing further palate sensations for us to enjoy: blackberry, ripe cherry, fig, plum, licorice, oak, mocha, espresso, milk chocolate, white and black pepper, and roasted beef.
Serving Suggestions:
Well, the wine already has a near perfect amount of bottle age on it, so I wouldn’t put this down for more than three years. Wonderful now, have with lamb, pasta, roasted meats.
2018 Thacher, “Oddly Natural”, Glenrose Vineyard
Growing Region Adelaida District, Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 46% Grenache, 22% Syrah, 26% Counoise, 4% Cinsault, 2% Viognier
Fermentation French Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content 14.3%
Suggested Retail $52.00
WineSellar Club Price $51.99
Broad Strokes: 96 Points, Sunset Int. Wine Competition, 211 Cases Produced
From the Winery: Since 2004 Thacher Winery with the grasshopper label, has been hand crafting wines from superb vineyards found on the Westside of Paso Robles and in Southern Monterey County. Our boutique production of Rhone blends and Zinfandels demonstrate local subtleties and true westside terroir. We are a family owned and operated, authentic wine producer located in one of the most superb wine growing regions of the world, and fueled by some of the most talented people. We believe in this place that we call home, and the handmade wines that we have to share with you. We have come from other places and have varied backgrounds, and we are grateful to share this lovely part of California with those that are also drawn to Paso Robles
Appearance:
Nice looking, solid package with the heavy bottle. The grasshopper on the label originates from the Thacher Family Crest that dates back to the 1800s in the UK. I think “Oddly Natural” could use larger font. The wine is very dark at the center, with hints of mulberry and pomegranate skin hues.
Nose:
Brilliant and fresh black cherry and raspberry fruit jumps out of the glass. Black plum, lead pencil, graphite, gun smoke . . . I LOVE that stuff! The aromatics are solid, attractive clean.
Texture:
Oh-so nicely balanced with rich fruit and well-integrated tannins and acids. Seemingly seamless, I love the way the velvety richness totally covers your palate without any compromises.
Flavors:
I had this next to the Ogier Gigonda, this months’ Two Rouge Selection. It was really fun to compare similar cuvee’s from different countries, with different styles of making wine. Dark cherry fruit, not rustic like the Ogier. Fresh, clean, lively, full richness of fruit. Graphite, smoke and lead pencil comes through nicely!
Serving Suggestions:
Drink over the next ten years . . .
2017 Thacher, “Resident Alien”
Growing Region Adelaida District, Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 43% Tannat, 57% Petite Sirah
Fermentation French Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $52.00
WineSellar Club Price $51.99
Broad Strokes: 175 Cases Produced
From the Winery: Since 2004 Thacher Winery with the grasshopper label, has been hand crafting wines from superb vineyards found on the Westside of Paso Robles and in Southern Monterey County. Our boutique production of Rhone blends and Zinfandels demonstrate local subtleties and true westside terroir. We are a family owned and operated, authentic wine producer located in one of the most superb wine growing regions of the world, and fueled by some of the most talented people. We believe in this place that we call home, and the handmade wines that we have to share with you. We have come from other places and have varied backgrounds, and we are grateful to share this lovely part of California with those that are also drawn to Paso Robles
Appearance:
Nice looking, solid package with the heavy bottle. The grasshopper on the label originates from the Thacher Family Crest that dates back to the 1800s in the UK. I think “Resident Alien” could use larger font. The wine is nearly totally black, as these two varietals extract deep coloring.
Nose:
Wafting four inches above the glass, the super-dense dark and black fruits aromas have undercurrents of dark soil and crushed herbs. Slightly closed and holding tight for thirty minutes, as the varietals Tannat and Petite Sirah typically do in youth.
Texture:
This is what I might term a “vertical” entry, which means it has solid structure. It is not harsh however, as the wine is smooth and polished, and has a welcoming, generous feel in the mouth. Vertical becomes more towards horizontal with airing and also bottle aging.
Flavors:
After the wine was open for thirty minutes, it began to gradually yield its vertical structure to reveal some blackberry pie, wood nuances, cedar, a touch of smoke, tar, hoisin, and then elements of dust and soil. It is a beautiful drink.
Serving Suggestions:
I think this wine will go twenty years in our cellars, and I am putting a case away to enjoy over that time. Simply lovely!
Salmon & Egg Breakfast
When I buy fresh salmon, I usually get a “BBQ Cut”, which generally has a thick meaty top portion, and a very thin meat distribution at the bottom. Sometimes the bottom portion is so thin, I don’t feel secure about putting it on a BBQ. Also, by the time the thick portion of the cut is cooked, you are dealing with an over cooked bottom.
So, I Bar-B-Que the top portion of the salmon, but cut the thin part off before hand, to be served at breakfast the next day or so. Here is one of my favorite recipes for that thin salmon meat.
Serves two.
Ingredients:
- 4-6 ounce thin salmon
- 3 ounce English Cheddar Cheese
- 1/8 inch slice of red onion, chopped
- 2 pieces sourdough bread or English muffin
- ½ avocado, mashed
- Salt & pepper to taste.
- 2-4 eggs, as preferred
- 1 tablespoon olive or truffle oil
- 1-2 pats unsalted butter
Method:
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From your BBQ cut of salmon, take a sharp knife and cut off the bottom (thin part) of the salmon. If it has the skin, make sure you remove it.
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Place salmon slices on a small, non-stick cookie sheet, lightly coat with olive or truffle oil.
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Preheat toaster or regular oven to 200 degrees, and place salmon sheet inside. It will take 12-15 minutes to cook through, leaving it very tender. Watch carefully.
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Mash your avocado and set aside.
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Cut the English cheddar into slices to fit on top of the bread you have chosen.
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Slice your red onion and chop it coarsely.
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When salmon is cooked to your preference, remove from oven, but leave it on the sheet to keep it warm.
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Place cheese slices on top of your bread (or muffins) and toast until cheese melts. As your toast is going, add butter to non-stick pan and add eggs to fry.
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When your toast is done, add the smashed avocado and chopped onions.
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Stack the salmon on top.
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Place fried eggs on top of the salmon.
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Salt & Pepper to taste
Options: Drizzle hot sauce on the eggs